1971 XS1B problems

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:wtf:im having problems with my bike i have a 1971 XS1B i rewierd the whole bike it starts good but i have no power coming back from the stator i bought new brushes and still no volts so could it be just the stator or does any one have an opinion of what i can try next
 
- make sure your battery has a full charge...how did you rewire your bike...what changes have you made

- its a long time since ive had to do anything with original charging systems as i run an RD permag...this is just off the top of my head so it would pay to double check the desired specs in your manual

- first check the brushes-should be min 9mm or 3/8"

- with key/kill on check voltage at the hot brush...if none then check that the + from batt to reg is live...if live and no voltage at brush then reg is '*'&$§ed...

- check rotor with key/kill on (power to the rotor)-should pull a .003 feeler gauge into it when held by the rotor nut

- from the alternator comes a 6 pin connecter with 3 white wires, there is also a single connecter with a yellow wire
-using lowest resistance scale on a multimeter check each pair of white to white-3 pairs(1-2,2-3,1-3)-depending on the year they should read around 0.5 or 1.0 ohms
-measure yellow to any white...0.7 ohms​
-measure from white to engine casing...infinite​
-remove both brushes...measure resistance from slipring to slipring...5.0 ohms​
-measure resistance slipring to rotor body at high resistance scale...infinite​

- check the rectifier-it changes ac to dc-with a multimeter ground one lead and touch the other to each pin...reverse the leads-if the measurements are the same you need a new rec...these have 1 way diodes in them so should only pass a current 1 way-by reversing the leads you are checking both directions
 
My bike is a kick start and does not have a alternator i will post up how i wierd my bike
 

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No alternator????????????????

No brushes wired in your diagram........Also with combined reg/rec you need to isolate the inside brush from earth.

Theres a thread on wiring diagrams in the tech section, might help. :cheers:
 
- you mean no starter motor, e-start?

- that diagramme is for a permanant magnet alternator, not the original system

- with the early alternators, as yamaman said you need to isolate the brushes when running a later combi rec-reg...the early alternators earthed through the brush holder, the later rec-regs earthed themselves...do this by replacing three of the screws with nylon ones-not plastic as they will melt...here is a helpful picture from the web

stator_screw.jpg


- you need to add a brush circuit kind of like the one in this pic

xs650_electrical_3.gif


- the brushes are the little box by the alternator
 
The pic.. You showed is like the stator i have but i guess on the 71 xs1b it has to be -01 and ive looked around and all i find is -02 stators now from what people tell me is that it wont fit it has different housing and also people ive talked to say i dont have a alternator they say its a stator that its a generator but thats why im asking you guys cause i dont know much about this bike also about those nylon skrews i will look into that today hopfully what i wrote makes sence and the diagram i posted is all the bike came with
 
- yes, in fact they are AC Generators, youre right...you need to get a manual and a good wiring diagram...the rotors are the same i think...the stator part number changed from 256-81610-10 to 306-81610-12---i dont see a difference but there are a couple of XS1-XS2 collectors here who may have better info for you
 
Not that it really matters I suppose what you call it. But in my book (for automotive purposes), if it makes AC, it's an alternator, DC it's a generator!

Greaser, your not helping us out here much yet! :wink2:
So, how are your brushes wired, & have you found some nylon screws for the brush yet?
Have you done measurements that inxs suggested? What were the results?
:cheers:
 
- yamaha call them AC generators in their manuals although in my mind theyre still alternators
 
- make sure your battery has a full charge...how did you rewire your bike...what changes have you made

- its a long time since ive had to do anything with original charging systems as i run an rd permag...this is just off the top of my head so it would pay to double check the desired specs in your manual

- first check the brushes-should be min 9mm or 3/8"

- with key/kill on check voltage at the hot brush...if none then check that the + from batt to reg is live...if live and no voltage at brush then reg is '*'&$§ed...

- check rotor with key/kill on (power to the rotor)-should pull a .003 feeler gauge into it when held by the rotor nut

- from the alternator comes a 6 pin connecter with 3 white wires, there is also a single connecter with a yellow wire
-using lowest resistance scale on a multimeter check each pair of white to white-3 pairs(1-2,2-3,1-3)-depending on the year they should read around 0.5 or 1.0 ohms
-measure yellow to any white...0.7 ohms​
-measure from white to engine casing...infinite​
-remove both brushes...measure resistance from slipring to slipring...5.0 ohms​
-measure resistance slipring to rotor body at high resistance scale...infinite​

- check the rectifier-it changes ac to dc-with a multimeter ground one lead and touch the other to each pin...reverse the leads-if the measurements are the same you need a new rec...these have 1 way diodes in them so should only pass a current 1 way-by reversing the leads you are checking both directions

ok had the chance to try it out again tested the 3 white coming off the stator did what you said (1-2) (1-3) (2-3) and off the (1-2)these were the readings it went from 0.5 to 6.6 never got steady (1-3)was 0.5 to 11.1 never got steady either and from (2-3)i got 0.5 to 9.2 the tester i used is pretty legit so is this sound good
 
:confused:(ok i from stator i got 3 white wires 1 blue 1 black,1 green. black and green go to the regulator and out of the regulator a brown wire comes out giving a reading of 12.0 -14.0 i ran that one to the coils ) (the 3 white wires go to Rectifier and also red from battery and my ground on the rectifier sparks when i ground it) on my key ignition i only have 3 wires coming out of it it is not the stock one from my bike it has 3 wires 1 blue 1 red 1 brown the red goes to the battery and rectifier blue goes to the lights and brown to the coils now the bike turns on fine and im getting voltage out of the stator and out of the regulator im not saying the wireing is correct but i used like 3 different diagrams to put this together so just a little help is what i need
 
- stator...3 white to rectifier, black to earth, green to regulator
- neutral light switch-blue...to tachometer

- rectifier... 3 white from alternator, black to earth, red to battery and ign switch

- regulator...green from alternator, black to earth, brown to ignition, horn, indicator and tachometer neutral light power supplies
 
- also i would be tempted to replace the old separate mechanical rectifier and regulator-these are getting pretty old and are a push home waiting to happen-with a modular solid state rec-reg
 
Ok, so you have a seperate regulator & a seperate rectifier, is that correct?
Becaue the drawing you gave at the start of this thread shows a combined reg/rec unit!
It is only if you have this combined unit that you would use the nylon screws. 2 seperate units needs the metal screws.
 
- stator...3 white to rectifier, black to earth, green to regulator
- neutral light switch-blue...to tachometer

- rectifier... 3 white from alternator, black to earth, red to battery and ign switch

- regulator...green from alternator, black to earth, brown to ignition, horn, indicator and tachometer neutral light power supplies

- also i would be tempted to replace the old separate mechanical rectifier and regulator-these are getting pretty old and are a push home waiting to happen-with a modular solid state rec-reg

I GOT A NEW REG-REC FROM MIKES XS HOOKED EVERYTHING UP GOT A NEW BATTERY EVERY THING READY TO GO NOW I STILL DONT THINK IM GETTING A GOOD CHARGE BACK AFTER A GOOD COUPLE OF MINS MY HEAD LIGHT STARTS TO DIM AND ILL CHECK MY BATTERY AND IT S HALF WAY OUT OF JUICE :banghead:
 
If you are using an autoranging meter, it has a hard time reading low ohms. The one Harbor Freight sells for $7.99 works great for testing our electrics. Often on sale for $1.99 or $2.99.
 
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