Discussion in 'The Garage' started by scanney, Dec 20, 2019.
Carbs have to come off and completely apart to replace, not a one hour shade tree project
Yeah, and if you are not into dealing with details, I suggest shipping them to Gary for a rebuild, lol.
Hey Mr. Watch it!
I'm still not certain what you are referring to as "throttle shaft seals". Is the diaphragm as seen in attached pic?
If going through your carbs is a bit more than you are comfortable with, you have a 3rd option.... Rick West at Oldskool carbs can completely rebuild them for you. He has a set of mine right now.. You would have to confirm with him but the basic clean and rebuild cost is currently around $150 which includes shipping them back to you too. This is the second pair I've had him do. His work is top notch and they look like jewelry when he's done. Look up his ad in the Shops forum here. It costs more if you have him vapor blast them though. Either way, its an alternative option.
Interesting. Didn't see that coming.
No the throttle shafts run horizontally thru the carbs thru the centerline of the carb "butterfly" valves which open mechanically via the cable.
Those "diaphrams"/slides are vacuum actuated.
@ work with limited access to diagrams. Somebody post carb diagrams please
On to the next. See attached pic of engine cover- right side. All 10 allen bolts removed as well as oil filter and cover. I know there is gasket sealer holding cover in place. I gave a few good whacks with rubber mallet but cover remains in place. Any suggestions to loosen cover so I can remove it? Thanks in advance.
Number 35. Seals on the shaft that holds the butterfly. 1 on each side of the carb. I believe there is a thread in the tech section on replacing them. They get hard with age and don't seal well.
Item #35 looks about the right place for the throttle shaft seal.
Idea on the carbs. If you are still diagnosing as to whether or not your throttle shaft seals are leaking. Blotch some grease on that area to see if a temp grease seal affects the carbureation.
Much easier than guessing
Yamaha uses 3bond to hold gasket to cover AND a bit between the gasket and crankcases at the front and rear joint. I usually take a stiff putty knife and tap it in at the top rear. once the cover staters to separate use a rubber mallet at the rear to pop the front loose, the putty knife acts as a fulcrum. Also behind the tach drive there is a small tab where the cover sticks out in front of the crankcase a long drift with CAREFUL tapping can aid loosening. 3Bond softens with heat, a heat gun at front and rear should help.
My primary reason for removing the side cover is to sand and polish it. I'm considering leaving it in place and sanding and polishing without removing. I'll think about it before deciding which approach. Thanks for the advice. Sean
Good plan, I nearly always polish it in place.
Blue 4" deco wheel.
Thanks again, that is what I'll do.
Dumb question number 27: What is the best or easiest way to remove the rubber from the rider's foot peg? I've tried heat, coaxing with screw driver, a little WD40 to no avail.
If you're trying to save , I have no idea but otherwise carefully use a utility knife.
NOS rubbers can often be found at Feebay, just in case.
Another carburetor rebuild question... two different service manuals indicate the "pilot screw" as seen in the attached pic, should be turned all the way until seated. One manual indicates the screw should then be turned 3/4 back, the other says 1 turn. Which is it?
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