1975 XS Budget Build or at least thats what I tell the better half!

[SherpaT]

So the machine shop says the head is salvageable and is going to regrind it for 120 Canadian Kopeks. Not sure if its a good deal or not but not too many options and its a reputable shop. hopefully start putting this motor back together soon.
I cleaned the Carbs cleaned up and will be using some newer versions with one throttle cable and the plate joining the two. I'm waiting on the rebuild kits still though so thats on the back burner as well.
Today I started mocking up some side panels out of some aluminum oven liners. I want to build them out of aluminum plate of perhaps using an old road sign if I can find one to keep costs down. The local Home Despot has aluminum sheet but its only .25" and a bit thin for what I want and not cheap! I think the route I want to take for shape is very similar to the classic side plates on the 77' YZ250 using the original tabs as I really don't want to cut anything off. Call me a purist but I hate doing any irreparable damage to anything even though this thing won't be close to stock.

I also have an idea to incorporate this old dashboard piece I've been carrying around for years. I'm undecided whether to use it or not. I was thinking about using the ammeter and then rigging up a 12v cig. lighter/usb in the other hole just to charge my phone. If anyone knows what this panel is from it would be cool too. My plan is to make this thing mechanically sound this year with a rat bike feel and maybe make it pretty as I go. Honestly though I'll prob keep it ratty! Was thinking that I would try my hand at "Machine turning" the aluminum as well. Let me know what you guys think!

 

[fredintoon]

So the machine shop says the head is salvageable and is going to regrind it for 120 Canadian Kopeks. Not sure if its a good deal or not but not too many options and its a reputable shop. hopefully start putting this motor back together soon.
I cleaned the Carbs cleaned up and will be using some newer versions with one throttle cable and the plate joining the two. I'm waiting on the rebuild kits still though so thats on the back burner as well.
Today I started mocking up some side panels out of some aluminum oven liners. I want to build them out of aluminum plate of perhaps using an old road sign if I can find one to keep costs down. The local Home Despot has aluminum sheet but its only .25" and a bit thin for what I want and not cheap! I think the route I want to take for shape is very similar to the classic side plates on the 77' YZ250 using the original tabs as I really don't want to cut anything off. Call me a purist but I hate doing any irreparable damage to anything even though this thing won't be close to stock.

I also have an idea to incorporate this old dashboard piece I've been carrying around for years. I'm undecided whether to use it or not. I was thinking about using the ammeter and then rigging up a 12v cig. lighter/usb in the other hole just to charge my phone. If anyone knows what this panel is from it would be cool too. My plan is to make this thing mechanically sound this year with a rat bike feel and maybe make it pretty as I go. Honestly though I'll prob keep it ratty! Was thinking that I would try my hand at "Machine turning" the aluminum as well. Let me know what you guys think!View attachment 130759View attachment 130760View attachment 130761View attachment 130762View attachment 130763

Hi Sherpa,
didja drop a zero or should that inch symbol really be mm because .25" means it's a quarter of an inch thick.
Or if it's a quarter of a millimeter yes, it's too thin to make satisfactory flat side-panel.
Nice old instrument panel. Think about building in the iggy & light switches and mounting it atop the gas tank like a pre-war BSA.
(OK or like a Harley but we won't mention that.)

 

[SherpaT]

Ah yes definitely meant .025” yes I’ll have to look into those old BSA’s sounds like a cool idea...

 

[Beags64]

Mr. Pete 222 has a nifty YouTube vid on Engine Turning/Jeweling alum on a drill press with just some oil & sand blasting media (tip #469). Always liked the look of the old Jeweled panels on stuff.

 

[Ratranger]

Fine clover compound works well for an engine turned finish. Just use a dowel rod with leather glued to the end in a drill press. Not a bike part, but one I engine turned using the simple tools.

 

[SherpaT]

Wow, nice job on the triumph dash it looks great! I did some scrounging for cheap/free aluminum and since I'm waiting on parts. I ended up cutting my first side panel design out on an old aluminum cookie sheet which is the perfect thickness! I know I'm being ridiculously cheap but I enjoy repurposing stuff and I've already blown my 1000 all in bike included budget! So looks like its now the 1500$ budget... After cutting it out I tried doing some turning but alas I don't have a Drill press at present so I just did it with my regular drill and two hands. It looks okay but I'm going to sand it out and bring it over to a buddies and try and do a better job using the drill press. I also crudely built this stator mount using the thick aluminum from an old frying pan. Who knew that cookware was such a good source of motorcycle parts... The stator mount is about 4mm thick and I cut it out using an old jigsaw with a metal blade and some hand filing. I think it turned out okay considering. I know this work is definitely not up to the standard of most of you guys, but this is my first street bike build and I'm doing this in my basement on a budget with basic tools. If anyone has any cool tips or ideas, I'm open to criticism as this is somewhat of a learn as you go build.

 

[59Tebo]

I know this work is definitely not up to the standard of most of you guys, but this is my first street bike build and I'm doing this in my basement on a budget with basic tools.

Says you, Sherpa! That's cool as hell! If your tank wasn't in such good condition, I'd say do that too! That bike is gonna be a ripper! Keep up the good work!

 

[Beags64]

Side panel looks good! A true hand built item, not some cookie cutter part.

 

[azman857]

I'm giving you 2 thumbs up on your repurposing and ingenuity for finding your metal supplies.

 

[Ratranger]

That looks really good for a hand drill. I cheated and used a mill with a DRO so the spacing was exact.

Looks like your doing great for scrounging and repurposing with limited tools. I've seen impressive work done with tools that all came from harborfreight.

 

[fredintoon]

- - - Looks like your doing great for scrounging and repurposing with limited tools. I've seen impressive work done with tools that all came from harborfreight.

Hi Ratranger,
we Canadians don't have harborfreight, we have Princess Auto instead. In the UK there's Halfords.
What I reckon is that while low-cost tools wear out too quick to be a bargain for full time professional mechanics they'll be OK for amateur weekend workers.
Except for vise-grips. Genuine vice-grips (or mole wrenches in the UK) work great and last forever.
Imitation vise-grips (or mole wrenches) don't work properly even when they are new.

 

[5twins]

I'll second that vice-grip comment. I was a sheet metal worker and nothing worked as well or for very long except the genuine article. I tried several other brands, even good names like Craftsman, but none were as good. And keeping them oiled, especially the adjusting screw, made even the real ones work so much better. It used to amaze me the crusty, rusty tools some guys tried to work with. The job was hard enough without having to fight the tools too, lol. This has spilled over into my mechanical work. I keep all my moving parts tools well lubed (pliers, ratchets, C-clamps). A Proto professional ratchet with the head packed full of grease is a wonderful thing .....

 

[SherpaT]

Hey guys not to derail this into a tool thread! Haha I would enjoy that... Heres one shot of my ratchet collection - I think I have a problem... I tend to try and buy used good tools - usually old stuff. I do buy some cheap things like my angle grinder is from Canadian tire which is like a 30 dollar special. Its fine for the home gamer. I don't use it enough to justify anything expensive. I ended up getting my used cylinders and pistons from Ebay for 120$ delivered and they are actually in great shape! I honed the cylinders and put new rings on. The cylinder to piston clearance was around .003 with a feeler gauge so should be good enough for now. I also had the head reground and installed a new exhaust valve. I don't have access to a welder so I rigged up a valve spring compressor with two 11/16 wrenches to give me space to install the keepers. I'm going to install the top end today and I will put some pics up... I almost got evicted/divorced for trying to spray paint in the basement - apparently the furnace picked it up and sent it directly to the upstairs neighbours! Sooooo I'm just going to have to mock everything up this winter and then do some painting outside once it warms up here.

 

[5twins]

Nifty idea with the wrenches for a valve spring tool. One of the best things about the Proto ratchets is they sell rebuild kits for them. I buy used ones too (as well as new). Installing one of those rebuild kits in a used ratchet makes it like new again.

 

[SherpaT]

So I've gotten a bit of work done so far. The top end is done thanks to the writeup here and the service manual. I installed my stator and I just need to figure out a adaptor key between the crank and my new flywheel. I probably won't get a ton done over the holidays but maybe I'll order some more parts! My stator came with a pickup for the crank sensor which I ended up just cutting off so it only has 3 wires which I'm assuming go to my regulator. I have a SH775BA which has two ports. One has three spade connectors and then the other port has two. I'm assuming the 2 spade port is positive and negative to the battery but I'm not sure which. I'll have to do some more research. Also I'm aware that my engine is not pretty but I have so much to do before summer that the polishing can wait!

 

[5twins]

I don't see the front cam chain guide? It should be mounted into the cylinder before you put it on the block, at least if you want to be assured you get it in there straight.

 

[SherpaT]

Ah yes, I did make sure it was straight from the top however I understand what you're saying. It could be crooked on the bottom. I'll have to decide whether I want to rip it all apart again!

 

[timbeck]

SherpaT---On your reg the positive spade is the one closest to the three spade connector.
tim

 

[gggGary]

There's a mad woman somewhere..........

 

[fredintoon]

There's a mad woman somewhere..........

Hi Gary,
I'd be mad too if someone had butchered MY carb. cleaning tray because he was too cheap to buy a piece of aluminum sheet.