1976 XS650 restoration and rebuild, advice and help welcomed!

I prefer the terminal "stud" type over the terminal "nut" kind. I think they grip better, more positively. The caps you got are the LB05F model. The "E" type are for the terminal nut .....

CfYZoPi.jpg


There are some plugs out there where the "nut" doesn't screw off. They're made solid and are permanently the terminal nut style.
 
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Thank you Pete! Who knew! (Ha! I'm sure everyone but me..). Thanks for the help.


It is winter here and so I am always happy to help a guy who lives in a place with better weather than we have...who also has spare bedrooms!

Just kidding!!!!

Cheers,

Pete
 
PAMCO update. Soldered the e-advance wires to the corresponding wires on the sensor plate. Then heat shrunk those together for protection.
 

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You're on beach boy!!

All seriousness aside - the soldering job looks good - have you tried to start it yet?
Beach Boy... ha! Guilty as charged I suppose!
I still need to get the harness and all the auxiliary electrical components in place on the bike... I figured I'd get the Pamco in, then the coils, plugs, then begin with the main harness connections (working from the battery outward to the HL.)

But the engine is filled with oil, the tank is ready, battery is charged. I am attending a carburetor and fuel system knowledge workshop Sunday up in LA. Looking forward to that, and the timing is excellent.

https://www.meetup.com/Gearheads-Wo.../?read=1&_af=event&_af_eid=237178952&https=on
 
The next step in the Pamco install, mounting the coil seems to be a dilly of a pickle. Here is a photo of the mock up. I am following the illustrations for 71'-79' models from PamcoPete's page, here. http://www.yamahaxs650.com/installing_the_coil.htm

Picked up a set of ground clamps mounted them to the coil. My primary concern is the coil now will sit directly in the way of the flasher relay. Im going to pour into the site and look for a solution, but thought I'd throw this out for the community to see in case there is a slick fix.

Also, on this stock frame, the original mounting plate for the stock coils makes this location challenging. Hmmm.:umm:
 

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I don't think I'd use those ground clamps for the coil mounting. You have the two original coil mounting spots to work off of. I would make a light gauge angle bracket to bolt down to one of them. Rotate the coil so it's mounts face sideways and bolt it to the vertical leg of the new angle bracket with bolts through spacer tubes. You could offset it to one side and probably gain the space back for the flasher. I would also face the plug wires to the rear like the original coils had them.
 
I don't think I'd use those ground clamps for the coil mounting. You have the two original coil mounting spots to work off of. I would make a light gauge angle bracket to bolt down to one of them. Rotate the coil so it's mounts face sideways and bolt it to the vertical leg of the new angle bracket with bolts through spacer tubes. You could offset it to one side and probably gain the space back for the flasher. I would also face the plug wires to the rear like the original coils had them.

5twins... Is it possible you Obama'd my Trump Tower??

I just finished up the install on a bracket that checks many of the boxes you mentioned. Mounting to the stock frame coil mount, I used 1"x1/8" AL bar stock, rather than an angle. Coils are facing rearward, adequate clearance for the flasher, no contact with the frame, or tank. I don't think I'll get a tv show deal out of this fabricating exercise, but it sits on there pretty nifty! If anyone should want a template of this bracket, please holler.
 

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And with that, spark plugs gapped to spec .028, torqued to 14.5ftlb, resistor caps installed.
 

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OK - lets hear the thunder!
I think I can hear this girl, but still off in the distance... First off, on the mounting of the new starter switch unit, I need to remove my head from ass, and get out the drill.

In the meantime, I could benefit from a read on this. See the two images here. OEM switch, vs the replacement. (Looks like i'll be needing to drill a hole or two in the battery box to enable the new part's bracket.) I am a little miffed on how/where to be making the correct connections to the new switch unit...

The OEM unit has a red and blue wire. The replacement, a yellow/red, and a green/red. I wonder where the new wires correspond!? I also now wonder on which of the threaded posts goes to the positive battery lead..
 

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George......................there is no polarity on those connections. You can connect the primary side of the contactor coil anyway you like. Same for the secondary side..................obviously the battery cable will connect easier to the top stud on the contactor.
 
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