1977 xs650 charging system install

Greasybobber77

Greasy bobber77
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Ok I'm new here but I'm very mechanically inclined but electrical isnmy weak point and I'm at my limit here!
I have a 1977 xs650 custom bobber w points ignition, recently my charging system stopped working so I decided at almost 40yrs old I should replace all of it.
The battery is new (less then 6months old) and I purchased new coils, regulator/rectifier, and stator. I was gonna replace the rotor but it tested 6ohms and didn't look beat up. My problem lies in the wiring from stator to regulator/rectifier, my rectifier I previously had installed had 6 wires coming out of it, and the new one has no wires coming from it and only 5 male connector. Wires are also different colors. Now as for the stator the slap test is coming up weak even when full voltage is jumped to the positive brush and the 3 white wires are receiving no ohms to it. Did I order the wrong parts or should i of ordered the rotor? Or am I just missing something? Any and every information is appreciated!
 

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77 has separate regulator and rectifier, The part you have bought is a single solid state rectifier. You need to purchase a regulator or connect your old one.

Never had anything to do with those but Mikes tells you what needs to go where. Looking to the front,

Top row...........Positive to left-Negative to the right
Bottom row.......3 Yellow/White to the 3 terminals

You will need to make up a loom connection as per wiring diagram to connect the rectifier to the Stator and incorporate the regulator wires in the connector to the stater as well
 
Points models never come out with a combined solid state Reg/Rectifier. There are aftermarket point model Solid state Reg/Rectifers and mikes XSdoes sell these.

Solid State Reg/rectifiers were on factory produced bikes from 80-84 when the XS650 had factory electronic ignition

Here is a link to an alternative Regulator and Rectifier. Important to take NOTE of the last post on the first page
 
Have you gone through the Charging system guide? It explains how to test the rotor and stator for ohms. Your repair manual does to.
The rotor at 6 ohms may be ok but you also need to test from the slip rings to the body of the rotor, any continuity means a short to ground.
On the stator it may read around .5 or 1 ohms, the actual reading isn't as important as they all should match.
If you have a Clymer book page 38 has a trouble shooting section with diagrams showing how the basic system works.
You shouldn't replace anything till you test what you have. You may spend a lot of money on parts you don't need.
Often the brushes or wire connections are the issue, not the parts.
Leo
 
Ok so I decided all and all to scrap the OEM style charging system and go battery less with a mikesxs permanent magnet alternator kit, also got a capacitor and starter block off kit.. So my next question is what all can go? I know the battery, regulator/rectifier and the old stator and rotor but what about the small fuse box and starter relay or key switch?
 
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