1980 XS650 Brat/ Bobber/ Chopper/ Who Knows? Build

I don’t claim to be the smartest guy in the garage, but I’m pretty happy about this. I needed to press the cam seals out and thought to do the ol’ vice and socket trick, but couldnt find a socket the right size. Then I spotted my rear wheel dust seal thingamajig.
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Turns out it’s a perfect fit! (It also needs a cleaning!)
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I popped it in my tiny sorry excuse for a vice along with two scrap pieces of wood (one of them even had a screw in it to help keep it from slipping off!).
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And with a flip of the wrist. The sucker popped right out!
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Question: Do you guys put the new seal in dry or grease it up?
 
So fellas, what do ya’ say? Do I tear it down and check the guide? Jim, would I have to remove the aircraft sealant? What about the copper gasket spray?
 
would I have to remove the aircraft sealant? What about the copper gasket spray?
Shouldn't have to. Might have to add a little back. As far as pulling it back apart... that's your call. I probably would, but I have a pretty bad case of ocd. :rolleyes:
 
Re-read my top end thread. I just eyeballed mine with the cylinders installed. I'm 100% confident I got it straight. You could get away with leaving the cylinders installed if you're confident in your Mk.I eyeball.

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I’m opting to go with the eycrometers! But I am wondering that why one can’t loosen the front guide, torque everything down, then add some tension from the rear guide, rotate the crank and let the front guide adjust itself, THEN snug it down. Tell me why I’m wrong!
Also, I was cleaning my sump filter plate and wondering why Yamaha plugged this passage this way. Has anyone thought to tap this hole and run a line from it to another engine entry to possibly circulate oil. Thoughts?

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I’m opting to go with the eycrometers! But I am wondering that why one can’t loosen the front guide, torque everything down, then add some tension from the rear guide, rotate the crank and let the front guide adjust itself, THEN snug it down. Tell me why I’m wrong!
That would get you close, but one side or the other would still rub. Might be OK.... might not... no way to know for sure without "eyes on."

That plug is a machining plug to plug where they machined out the passageway.
 
That would get you close, but one side or the other would still rub. Might be OK.... might not... no way to know for sure without "eyes on."

That plug is a machining plug to plug where they machined out the passageway.

Yeah that makes sense about the guide. I wish I had a little video scope!

That’s what I figured about that plug. Could there be any possible advantages in using it to re-route oil flow or run a cooler line to it?
 
Not that I can see. You'd have to route the oil out the plug and then back in to the hole directly behind the plug. Not much room on the plate for that.
 
Not that I can see. You'd have to route the oil out the plug and then back in to the hole directly behind the plug. Not much room on the plate for that.

Sounds quite pointless! Also sounds like I have much fire to learn about the oil delivery system haha
 
Ideally, you'd like to have 1/2mm spacing, both sides of the camchain.
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But, the head and cam would have to be installed to see where the camchain is running.

Thought about cooking up a long u-shaped alignment tool. Slide it in there, spanning both sprockets, with the front guide loosened. Cross-section like this red line.
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A headache-in-process...
 
Ideally, you'd like to have 1/2mm spacing, both sides of the camchain.
View attachment 135474

But, the head and cam would have to be installed to see where the camchain is running.

Thought about cooking up a long u-shaped alignment tool. Slide it in there, spanning both sprockets, with the front guide loosened. Cross-section like this red line.
View attachment 135475

A headache-in-process...

That is a really good idea. Something 3D printed would probably be the way to go. The reason I am not totally buying how critical the alignment is, is that no matter what, there will be some amount of lateral movement. Also, none of the manuals even mention this adjustment. It seems to me that cam chain tension would be much more critical to regulate that movement. With that being said, folks with much more experience than me feel otherwise.
 
Just tore the top end down and rechecked the tensioner. It was fine and like I previously said, there was virtually no play when the bolts are finger tight. Tightened them all the way, switching from top to bottom bolt each turn of the wrench. I am using a mikes tensioner, so maaaaybe that has something to do with it. I have piece of mind now, but wrastlin’ the chain back in place was not my favorite. Hahaha. Moving on!
 
....... wondering why Yamaha plugged this passage this way. Has anyone thought to tap this hole and run a line from it to another engine entry to possibly circulate oil. Thoughts?

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Removing that plug would open a passage that is at a slight vacuum. The oil pump pulls oil up from the sump screen.
That's a simplification, but the general idea.
 
Havent been on the forum in awhile. Stoked to see someone in the Portland area with an XS. Im eventually going with a chopper, brat, something build too. Ive got a 79 Im playing with now. Hit me up up you need a hand or just a drinking buddy.:lmao:
 
Havent been on the forum in awhile. Stoked to see someone in the Portland area with an XS. Im eventually going with a chopper, brat, something build too. Ive got a 79 Im playing with now. Hit me up up you need a hand or just a drinking buddy.:lmao:

Right on! Get to posting and show off your bike!
 
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