1980 xs650 cutting out half throttle

jake nothing to apologise for mate. Its me . It takes a lot of 1x finger typing to explain complicated stuff and in this heat its easy to get grumpy especially when you're old and grumpy like me. :)

You're doing alright mate and its a complicated subject that is beyond the understanding of most of us.
You'll sort this and be up and running soon enough I'm sure
 
Yes they both beep. Well it did on the first try, I just tryed it again to double check and nothing. Hmm. But my battery did drop to 11.9v from the key being on so is that it? Why it didn't beep again Bc it didn't have 12+?
peanut said:
so is the battery charging now ? if it isn't the battery is going to go flat pretty soon.

I don't understand what you are saying here Jake . Could you be a little more precise with your choice of words so it makes some sense.
Alright sooo I tested the inner ring via the terminal lug for the brush on the stator. No beeping from my meter, telling me their would be a complete circuit. Weather in on the frame, or the negative terminal on my battery. I'm getting 11.2v ish still DC. If it helps I'm getting 7 ohms on the inner brush, and not 1 ohm on the outer brush. With key off. With key on, 11.6 ohms at inner brush, just OL on outer.

Forget the ohms they are no longer relevant. We know that the rotor is ok.
All we are interested in here is whether or not the inner copper ring on the rotor is getting grounded to the battery negative terminal .

1. Switch the ignition on
2. Do not start the engine.
3. Switch your multimeter to 200ohms which usually has a beep to confirm you have a continuity ie a connection
4. Place the red multimeter prod directly on the inner copper ring of your rotor.
5. Place the black multimeter prod on your negative - terminal of your battery .

Does the multimeter beep or not ?
If it does beep ... keep the red probe on the inner copper ring .......and move the black probe to the green wire fixing bolt on the stator brush holder .
Does it beep now ?
Please let us know what the result is of those 2x tests ......nothing else for the present ok
Click to expand...
they
peanut said:
so is the battery charging now ? if it isn't the battery is going to go flat pretty soon.

I don't understand what you are saying here Jake . Could you be a little more precise with your choice of words so it makes some sense.
Alright sooo I tested the inner ring via the terminal lug for the brush on the stator. No beeping from my meter, telling me their would be a complete circuit. Weather in on the frame, or the negative terminal on my battery. I'm getting 11.2v ish still DC. If it helps I'm getting 7 ohms on the inner brush, and not 1 ohm on the outer brush. With key off. With key on, 11.6 ohms at inner brush, just OL on outer.

Forget the ohms they are no longer relevant. We know that the rotor is ok.
All we are interested in here is whether or not the inner copper ring on the rotor is getting grounded to the battery negative terminal .

1. Switch the ignition on
2. Do not start the engine.
3. Switch your multimeter to 200ohms which usually has a beep to confirm you have a continuity ie a connection
4. Place the red multimeter prod directly on the inner copper ring of your rotor.
5. Place the black multimeter prod on your negative - terminal of your battery .

Does the multimeter beep or not ?
If it does beep ... keep the red probe on the inner copper ring .......and move the black probe to the green wire fixing bolt on the stator brush holder .
Does it beep now ?
Please let us know what the result is of those 2x tests ......nothing else for the present ok
Click to expand...
 
with the multimeter set to resistance (beep mode) you are not measuring voltage just whether or not you have a connection or not. Your battery is irrelevant for this test.
Make absolutely sure you are not touching any part of the stator or brush holder when using the multimeter leads on the copper rotor strips on the ohms setting (beep mode)

If you really do not get a beep then it sounds like there is as disconnection somewhere between the inner rotor ring and the ground but to be honest its hard to be certain with the feedback we are getting because you are clearly struggling with using a multimeter if you think electrical resistance test has anything to do with voltage.

Jake I reread your first post again to refresh my memory and I'm now thinking that the whole charging issue you have could just be due to you not putting the brush assembly back correctly when you removed it to clean the brushes . Could you upload a clear picture of the brush assembly on the stator for us .
 
Last edited:
Peanut has been doing good here, so I've stayed on the sidelines. A broken or intermittent wire in the bundle as it goes through the sprocket area happens..........................
If there are any cracked spots in the outer black covering Check the wires carefully in that area for any unusual kinks or wiggles. Why we do the ground the rotor test, at the brush end. Like peanut sez NEVER test ohms on a circuit, with voltage in it. IE disconect the battery before ohms tests. I like a turn signal bulb on wires with alligator clips or the like for much volts testing. a meter can show proper voltage but there may be only a single strand of wire making the connection. A bulb will only be "bright" if there are good solid connections.
 
Jake Violando said:
I'm not having a charging issue though? My regulator was trash. When the new one comes in I can do my tests and see if I need anything else
Click to expand...

Why do you say that you do not have a charging issue Jake ???..........:confused:

With no regulator fitted ....how have you determined that the rest of the charging system is functioning correctly ???

You have confirmed with your tests that the Rotor isn't working as it should yes ?!
If that is the case it doesn't matter if your regulator is working not working fried burnt or missing the charging system will not work until you sort the issue with the Rotor first .
I just don't seem to be able to get through to you with this so I am going to ask gggGary and others to chip in at this point because I'm just repeating myself and not helping you
 
peanut said:
Why do you say that you do not have a charging issue Jake ???..........:confused:

With no regulator fitted ....how have you determined that the rest of the charging system is functioning correctly ???

You have confirmed with your tests that the Rotor isn't working as it should yes ?!
If that is the case it doesn't matter if your regulator is working not working fried burnt or missing the charging system will not work until you sort the issue with the Rotor first .
I just don't seem to be able to get through to you with this so I am going to ask gggGary and others to chip in at this point because I'm just repeating myself and not helping you
Click to expand...
Thank you, you were Very helpful. I don't know how to word it, but my charging system is working. Sorry to make you mad.
 
My battery charges. With the old regulator hooked up still. The only problem I was having was the early throttle cutout. Which the new regulator should fix. And it should charge just like the bike charges now.
 
This happened to me one time. I took it out, and it almost seemed like it was starved for fuel or something. I started chasing the invisible electrical monsters all over my bike. Checked the points, timing, and all the stuff. I ended up looking at the connections on the coil and I took them apart and cleaned them all and then plugged them back in....seemed to have done the trick. Don't really know if this helps.
 
If you have a fully charged battery your reg/rec will have just about nothing to do with whether it will run or not. Currently just for testing purposes I run my bike without my reg/rec even hooked up.
You need to listen to peanut, he has done an excellent job in trying to help you but you continue to ignore what he says and do your own thing. Which most likely has caused him to quit helping you.
Good luck.
 
I wasn't ignoring him, I can't explain it well. I did his tests. Everything checked out perfect. Just as he walked me through. Sorry if it came out wrong but I'm not taking his advice for granted. The bike now fires up. Weather I use my old reg, or new one, it won't rev high. As Soon as you unplugg the reg, it runs like a raped ape. I did a test on my ignition coil, primary checks out to 2.7ohms, secondary is 23,000 ohms. Shouldn't the secondary be between 10-15000?
 

Similar threads

ssjody
Overcharging Alternator on XS650SH
2
Replies
23
Views
847
Jim
Jim
Jake_The_Snake
1980 xs650 sII Engine Bench Test Wiring Harness
Replies
0
Views
217
Jake_The_Snake
Jake_The_Snake
M
Idles poorly, surges and dies after 40 minutes of riding
Replies
5
Views
706
Halftwist
Halftwist
W
For Sale - frame for 1980 xs650 ... cut-up
Replies
2
Views
399
winguyjo
W
DB90
1981 Chopper Build
Replies
2
Views
368
DB90
DB90
Back
Top