Hey guys, found a new xs650 to start up, everything works so far, except this leak from the carbs that's only happening where the fuel gets fed into the carbs. that "t shape" piece that lets fuel into both carb bowls. I'm new to the special. it's the red one on the cover of the manual, that's the special G right? I didn't get much info with the bike. But yeah, that piece between the carbs moves side to side a little bit, and leaks only from there. I couldn't find specs or a chart or even much in the manual about it. is it maybe a bad gasket seal inside?
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1980 xs650 special?
- Thread starter Grimmith
- Start date
If you just put fuel in it give it a day for the rubber on the tee to swell a little. If after a day it still leaks then you have an issue. There is no o ring on the tee. It is a rubber coated tee with an couple of humps in it.
You may need to loosen the brackets (top and bottom) that hold the carbs together as a "bank" and squeeze the carbs together a bit to tighten the fit on the "T" .....
The "T" shouldn't be loose like that. You should barely be able to turn it.
The "T" shouldn't be loose like that. You should barely be able to turn it.
Had a similar issue. Rather than forking over $20 to MikesXS for a new T, i just used short pieces of clear fuel line and compressed it into each end of the T. Worked great and leaks gone. Trim the fuel line down so it doesn't bind. I think there is a post in the Tech section on this.
right when I start....the first Issue I came across was not being able to get the 4 screws holding on the mounting bracket...they wont even budge. I've tried liquid wrench, let it set and even tapped around all 4 screws lightly with small metal hammer to sort of knock it loose, later today I will try the knocker' loose spray. Any other suggestions?
IMHO don't do the bar clamp trick. heat on the bracket screws, hand impact, and sometimes not even then, strong thread lock on them.
wintergreen often works on the tee. Yes fuel helps swell the rubber.
wintergreen often works on the tee. Yes fuel helps swell the rubber.
If you're gonna work on old Japanese motorcycles, your first investment should be an impact screwdriver.
Like this one: https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-290...s=gateway&sprefix=impact+screw,aps,353&sr=8-3
Like this one: https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-290...s=gateway&sprefix=impact+screw,aps,353&sr=8-3
......and whatever you do, don't use phillips screwdrivers on these Japanese bikes, especially the carbs, unless you modify the Phillips heads (which I'm not a fan of since each screw is designed for a certain JIS bit). You'll find a lot of posts on this forum discussing JIS screwdrivers. Vessel is a great brand.
Indeed - get yourself a set of Vessel brand JIS screwdrivers. Another great source is GoFast Innovations (www.GoFastInnovations.com) who will ship you a really nice set of full-shank drivers for $30 CDN (which is around $3.57 USD at the present rate of exchange).
JIS drivers are widely available on eBay or Amazon for less that $50 - and they will not strip what looks like Philips screws on your bike. Here is a video from Cruis'nCanada on the GoFast screwdrivers which discusses (in an annoyingly roundabout way) the difference between Phillips and JIS:
The one thing that GoFast does not yet sell is an impact driver. I have found that the big silver handled Vessel #3 Impacta is really useful. In fact, it is perfecto for removing those very tight XS650 clutch basket screws. Just insert the driver bit into the head of the screw, turn it to the left to "pre-load" it, hold it steady and give it one smart cuff with a hammer....and wah-lah!
You will have loosened that screw by around 12 degrees without messing up the screwhead. Here is a video on the Impacta and a photo of it.
JIS drivers are widely available on eBay or Amazon for less that $50 - and they will not strip what looks like Philips screws on your bike. Here is a video from Cruis'nCanada on the GoFast screwdrivers which discusses (in an annoyingly roundabout way) the difference between Phillips and JIS:
The one thing that GoFast does not yet sell is an impact driver. I have found that the big silver handled Vessel #3 Impacta is really useful. In fact, it is perfecto for removing those very tight XS650 clutch basket screws. Just insert the driver bit into the head of the screw, turn it to the left to "pre-load" it, hold it steady and give it one smart cuff with a hammer....and wah-lah!
You will have loosened that screw by around 12 degrees without messing up the screwhead. Here is a video on the Impacta and a photo of it.
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JIS is the way to go with these bikes.
In a pinch, you can grind the end down on a normal philips head. That is pretty much the main difference in the two types of heads. Not perfect but significantly better than using just a philips head. I have a couple like that and work fine.
In a pinch, you can grind the end down on a normal philips head. That is pretty much the main difference in the two types of heads. Not perfect but significantly better than using just a philips head. I have a couple like that and work fine.
Thanks everyone for the tips, literally and figuratively hahaha. I'll definitely order these screwdrivers and be patient. ALSO, I found the replacement part for the fuel Tee here at mikes xs. https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-bs34-aluminum-carb-fuel-line-tee-oem-3g1-14988-00-00.html
What is wintergreen? for the screws, So far, I've tried using a pen torch to heat up incase it was the red locktite, knock r' loose, even this stuff called freeze off to see if maybe it was rust inside....but none of these screws budge at all, like it's super glued or something...… I haven't stripped anything by any means but seriously, what do I do if the JIS screwdrivers don't work and I can't get these things off? Would I have to cut them off, re-drill and re-tap the holes.
Those are #3 NOT #2 and the US #3 phillips works fine. Use a hand impact wrench, you HAVE to get one, less than $10 at harbor freight, menards etc. Hit to loosen a couple time then reverse the action and TIGHTEN a few times, back and forth will loosen them. Once they move at all repeat with rustbuster. I work THOSE screw heads pretty hard with a propane torch. Mikuni did NOT want you taking those apart LOL.
Forthe fuel tee Wintergreen oil, a salicylate is a rubber restorative. can be found at the local health food store a little goes a long ways.
Forthe fuel tee Wintergreen oil, a salicylate is a rubber restorative. can be found at the local health food store a little goes a long ways.
Agree with all of this. The #3 that comes with the HF hand impact works fine for this. But -- I'm suspicious that it's leaking from someplace else and doesn't need to be taken apart in the first place. But if you find I'm wrong, replace the T with one like the Mike's one because it's just easier.
Have you confirmed that it still leaks after sitting with fuel. My tee leaked after I stripped the carbs and cleaned them. Took about 2 days after I put fuel to the them before the tee swelled and sealed. Has not leaked since.
There were some comments on the mikes fuel t connector about it leaking. Please do a search on it before you buy. You could have another leaker if you buy.
I had it sitting for about half a day, I honestly didn't think it could take that long. So tomorrow I'll set it up so it can sit a bit and go from there.
Thanks man I appreciate it. I think that before I try the screws I'll have the Tee soak a couple days like Superjet suggested, I don't think I let it sit long enough so I'll try that first.....ugh I hope that's all I need to do lol
That rubber on that stock tee can crack, game over. I'm in the mikesXS tee may not be the hot tip camp. I've probably done a dozen sets of BS34s maybe 3 tees were junk. If I didn't have a good stock tee to use I'd prolly do the cut off the rubber and slip on a section of tygon fuel line trick. Guess I should do it and report, I got the parts laying 'round.
