CBJamie
BIKE ADDICT
I agree with you on loseing the swingarm and doing a proper hardtail, it will look much better be lighter and stronger than what is there now. Good luck with it and have fun.
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1981 Basket Case Missing Some Parts...
- Thread starter irishlord99
- Start date
http://www.tcbroschoppers.com/instr...eld-On Hardtail Installation Instructions.pdf
TC Bros hard tail installation instructions. I think that the part of the frame that you would need for one of these hard tails is still unmolested.
Scott
TC Bros hard tail installation instructions. I think that the part of the frame that you would need for one of these hard tails is still unmolested.
Scott
irishlord99
Sometimes wrong, Seldom in doubt.
Yeah, I looked at that as well as a few others. I really like the looks of the 'ardtail, but haven't gotten a good vibe off of the reviews I've seen. They seem too busy to fill orders. I kinda like the look of the looped David Bird model on "lowbrow customs" as well. Either way, the frame is a long ways off. Engine first. With the feedback I've seen here, I agree that splitting the case is the smarter approach; time is short around the holidays (taking my family home to Alaska for ten days), so I'll probably wait until sometime in early January to start up again. 
irishlord99
Sometimes wrong, Seldom in doubt.
UPDATE: Moving slow, went home to Alaska for the holidays and hit the ground running one I got back with work, snowstorm, frozen pipes etc.
The case is split, and I'm working on cleaning it up, replacing seals, checking all the bearings, rods and everything else I've read about here and elsewhere. Looks pretty good so far. Slop on the bottom of the con-rods is pretty close to the limit; but other than that...just a couple of newbie questions:
I don't see any sealant on the mating surfaces of the cases, are they sealed at the factory? Did someone rebuild and nix the sealant?
Makes it easy to clean the mating surfaces, but makes me wonder what else the PO might have missed. When I split the case on my Suzuki GS, it had sealant... i remember because it was such a PITA to get it clean.
Also, I'm assuming the recess in the shift fork pictured was milled there? I don't see any corresponding wear on the associated gear.
The case is split, and I'm working on cleaning it up, replacing seals, checking all the bearings, rods and everything else I've read about here and elsewhere. Looks pretty good so far. Slop on the bottom of the con-rods is pretty close to the limit; but other than that...just a couple of newbie questions:
I don't see any sealant on the mating surfaces of the cases, are they sealed at the factory? Did someone rebuild and nix the sealant?
Makes it easy to clean the mating surfaces, but makes me wonder what else the PO might have missed. When I split the case on my Suzuki GS, it had sealant... i remember because it was such a PITA to get it clean.Also, I'm assuming the recess in the shift fork pictured was milled there? I don't see any corresponding wear on the associated gear.
There's sealer there. It just gets mostly squeezed out from between the mating surfaces when the cases are tightened down. You can see the remnants of the sealer application on the inside of the case, that brown stuff (was gray when fresh).
irishlord99
Sometimes wrong, Seldom in doubt.
I did notice that, but wondered if it was possible that it might have been sealer from the factory, then the engine was rebuilt without sealer.
Good to know that it doesn't look atypical. Thanks!
Good to know that it doesn't look atypical. Thanks!
I can see residue from the sealer on the mating surfaces. If you rub that down with a rag dipped in lacquer thinner, it will come off. In fact, that's what you'll want to clean all the mating surfaces off with. It will also remove that residue on the inside of the case. Wet a Q-tip down with some and rub those brown stains, you'll see. Lacquer thinner will dissolve and clean off all the remnants of the old sealer and it dries quickly leaving no residue. When you're ready to put the cases back together, give all the sealing surfaces another quick wipe down before applying the sealer.
irishlord99
Sometimes wrong, Seldom in doubt.
Just tried that and I see what you mean. Thanks. I was expecting a lot more residue, not that I'm complaining! Time to scrub, scrub, scrub!
One of the golden rules of engine building (or rebuilding) is that the gasket or sealing surfaces need to be meticulously clean, eat-off-it clean. Even the oils from your skin can sometimes mess things up. That's why you do a final quick wipe down just prior to re-assembly. You may have thoroughly cleaned the surfaces earlier during the rebuild process but chances are good they've since had some spots contaminated again with oils or grease, or even as I said, body oil. Think of it like an operation on a human being. Everything needs to be clean and sterile to avoid infections, or in this case, oil leaks. I just cringe at some of the rebuilds I see on here. Their "clean" parts look like my dirty ones, lol.
5t I know what you mean. Even when I'm installing a new gasket on something I worry about touching it and possibly getting oil on it during handling and compromising the surface. I'm constantly second-guessing sealing something up.
irishlord99
Sometimes wrong, Seldom in doubt.
More questions: I'm planning on eliminating the starter from this bike, am I right that I can leave out the shaft and two gears that go from the electric starter assy. over to the kick assy? They are parts labeled 10,11,and 12 on the exploded diagram of the starter assy. on page 19 here: https://thexscafedotcom.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/xs650e-parts-list.pdf
irishlord99
Sometimes wrong, Seldom in doubt.
UPDATE: Engine is completely back together, the highway yellow sandblasted off of the jugs and heads, and silver engine paint in it's place. All-in-all, I spend about $550 on the rebuild (lots of missing parts!) bringing the grand total for the bike up to ~$750 thus far. Still have to add the hardtail, seat, gas, tank, exhaust and all the other random accoutrements.
I left a couple of the valve covers off and cycled the engine (sans spark plugs) until oil flowed from the feeder tube, and now I have to put it away for the summer. Anything else I should do before putting the engine into storage?
I left a couple of the valve covers off and cycled the engine (sans spark plugs) until oil flowed from the feeder tube, and now I have to put it away for the summer. Anything else I should do before putting the engine into storage?
I would make sure that every hole is plugged or taped over on the engine to prevent insects and other wildlife getting in. My bike once had dirt in places from Mason Bee nests. Recently I saw some very dirty carburetors where the Mason Bees got in and built their dirt nests. Small mammals have also been known to hid in exhaust systems. Make sure water cannot get near the bike parts also. When parts are in longer term storage it is easy to forget them for a few weeks or months and water damage can set in.
irishlord99
Sometimes wrong, Seldom in doubt.
Okay, it's been a few years, so... time for an update! 
Progress has been slow, I left my 3x12's weekend shift job for a 4x10's position as a CNC programmer that turned out to be a 6x10's position (
lying bastards! ). But fate has smiled on me and I was able to leave the lying bastards for a sweet gig teaching machining and CNC programming at the local community college. So with a more reasonable weekly schedule and 20 weeks a year vacation, I'm able to finally get some stuff done in my personal life and on the bike. 
Having a state-of the art machine shop and solidworks package at my full-time disposal is a nice benefit as well.
I have taken the time to hit the Keene swap meet over the past few years, so I have most of the major components and the build is starting to come together now that I have time. I decided to go with a David Bird hardtail, and fortunately made the order about two months before he shuttered the business. In my quest to always be different, I fabbed up a seat tube and installed a pogo seat: seat post is a repo WL post, T-bar is from a swap meet and seat pan is from Drag Specialties.
It looks a little goofy when parked, but once I sit on the seat it lowers to a pretty reasonable height.
I bought the springer front end off a buddy with the intention of shortening it about 6", but when I installed it on the frame it looked so good I decided to see what I could do with some dropped sugar-bear type rockers. The ones in the picture are not correct, the axle hole needs to be moved rearward about 1" to make the geometry correct. Once I get the final version drafted it's off to the waterjet.
Stainless steel should last longer than plywood as well.
I'm currently waiting on some hardware to install the fishtail exhaust and to fit some pancake filters to the carbs. After that it's time to fab up a faux-oil take for all the electronics and mount the rear fender. Many little details to get right, probably going to take another year or so to get her on the road; but I just wanted to share and update and thank you all for all the information I've been able to glean from this forum as I proceed.
Not bad for a bike that came in boxes.
Progress has been slow, I left my 3x12's weekend shift job for a 4x10's position as a CNC programmer that turned out to be a 6x10's position (
lying bastards! ). But fate has smiled on me and I was able to leave the lying bastards for a sweet gig teaching machining and CNC programming at the local community college. So with a more reasonable weekly schedule and 20 weeks a year vacation, I'm able to finally get some stuff done in my personal life and on the bike. Having a state-of the art machine shop and solidworks package at my full-time disposal is a nice benefit as well.I have taken the time to hit the Keene swap meet over the past few years, so I have most of the major components and the build is starting to come together now that I have time. I decided to go with a David Bird hardtail, and fortunately made the order about two months before he shuttered the business. In my quest to always be different, I fabbed up a seat tube and installed a pogo seat: seat post is a repo WL post, T-bar is from a swap meet and seat pan is from Drag Specialties.
It looks a little goofy when parked, but once I sit on the seat it lowers to a pretty reasonable height.
I bought the springer front end off a buddy with the intention of shortening it about 6", but when I installed it on the frame it looked so good I decided to see what I could do with some dropped sugar-bear type rockers. The ones in the picture are not correct, the axle hole needs to be moved rearward about 1" to make the geometry correct. Once I get the final version drafted it's off to the waterjet.
Stainless steel should last longer than plywood as well. I'm currently waiting on some hardware to install the fishtail exhaust and to fit some pancake filters to the carbs. After that it's time to fab up a faux-oil take for all the electronics and mount the rear fender. Many little details to get right, probably going to take another year or so to get her on the road; but I just wanted to share and update and thank you all for all the information I've been able to glean from this forum as I proceed.
Not bad for a bike that came in boxes.
It will be a sweet bike after all is done to it.
irishlord99
Sometimes wrong, Seldom in doubt.
Thanks! I appreciate that!
I see 2 years have shot by. Glad to hear you have a job with lots of play time included. I guess you have access to plenty of equipment to use whenever you wish. I shall watch your build progress with interest. That bike is looking nicely configured with a lovely profile. Do not go riding in the rain with the plywood.
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Count me in as watching! 
irishlord99
Sometimes wrong, Seldom in doubt.
Today I had a few hours, so I set to fitting the filters.
![IMG_3242[1].JPG](https://www.xs650.com/attachments/img_3242-1-jpg.164836/ "IMG_3242[1].JPG")
First I took some silicone hose with a 2 1/8 inch ID and cut it into two 1.5" sections. Then I took some 2 1/8 OD aluminum tubing and cut that into two 1.5" section, inserted the tubing in the hose with enough offset to clamp onto the carb, then attached the filter to the bit of aluminum sticking out of the hose.
![IMG_3244[1].JPG](https://www.xs650.com/attachments/img_3244-1-jpg.164837/ "IMG_3244[1].JPG")
![IMG_3246[1].JPG](https://www.xs650.com/attachments/img_3246-1-jpg.164838/ "IMG_3246[1].JPG")
It works, but it's a lot of hose clamps!
![IMG_3248[1].JPG](https://www.xs650.com/attachments/img_3248-1-jpg.164839/ "IMG_3248[1].JPG")
I'm thinking of buying a pair of stainless band clamps and shortening them to replace all the hose clamps. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/EVIL-ENERGY-...51A&hsa_cr_id=9292904010101&ref_=sb_s_sparkle
I could also modify the band clamp to attach to a bracket welded to the frame, just to support all this weight.
First I took some silicone hose with a 2 1/8 inch ID and cut it into two 1.5" sections. Then I took some 2 1/8 OD aluminum tubing and cut that into two 1.5" section, inserted the tubing in the hose with enough offset to clamp onto the carb, then attached the filter to the bit of aluminum sticking out of the hose.
It works, but it's a lot of hose clamps!
I'm thinking of buying a pair of stainless band clamps and shortening them to replace all the hose clamps. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/EVIL-ENERGY-...51A&hsa_cr_id=9292904010101&ref_=sb_s_sparkle
I could also modify the band clamp to attach to a bracket welded to the frame, just to support all this weight.
