1981 XS650 SH Restoration

Measure their free height. Pretty sure the spec is in the manual.
 
The outer valve spring spec is 1.675". Mine measure 1.651". The inner spring spec is 1.654" and mine measure 1.630". They don't look very well either. What say you? My feeling is to replace them. They all look like this.
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Thanks for the heads up on the parts thread. I sent him a pm about the springs. I will look into the kibblewhite Springs as well. I read a thread where they (kibblewhite) said their springs would not work with stock XS seats and collets so I guess I would need the set.
 
I have one exhaust valve that looks questionable. The end has some slight pitting and it has some pitting on the side. Should I find a replacement for it or will it be fine to use?
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I think i will look for a replacement for that valve. the other valves I have are good. I have to lap them all anyway.

My cylinder bores are in spec as stock with correct (.002") piston clearance. I bought one set of piston rings from Mikesxs just to have a look at them. They don't appear to have a beveled edge on them and there is not any markings to show which side goes up. Are these good rings to use or should I find a different set?

edit: I found that I can get OEM rings for less than the rings at Mikessx. seems like a better bet to me.
 
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I have one exhaust valve that looks questionable. The end has some slight pitting and it has some pitting on the side. Should I find a replacement for it or will it be fine to use?View attachment 134535 View attachment 134536
Are you considering converting to "elephant's foot" adjusters? Plenty info on this site - if the concept is attractive to you, it's a good time to do it when everything's disassembled anyway.
 
aldo5468, I did read trough a few threads on the elephant foot adjusters. I think for my build I will go with the virago adjusters and call it good unless I find a good deal on new stock adjusters.
 
I wanted to post pictures of my tank. It had a nasty paint job and the tunnel was rusted. Inside was pretty rusty too. I used air craft stripper to loosen the paint. The paint washed right off with a garden hose to expose rust under the old paint. I neutralized the stripper in three baths of water and baking soda then used a scotch brite pad on the rust. The rust just fell off with hardly any pressure. Looks like it fresh from the factory before paint now. I wiped WD-40 all over it and sprayed the inside too. Now I just have to save $400 to have it painted. Anyway, here are some pics.
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$400!!!!......are you looking at graphics also??

I paid 200 CAD cash (about 150 USD) and that included some body work to fix a dent. I just went to a local autobody repair shop. They can knock that off in a matter of minutes.

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aldo5468, I did read trough a few threads on the elephant foot adjusters. I think for my build I will go with the virago adjusters and call it good unless I find a good deal on new stock adjusters.
Yeah, I've got Virago adjusters in mine, mainly because I've never had any reason yet to remove and disassemble my engine. No doubt they and the stock OEM adjusters do the job; the advantage (as I see it, anyway) with the elephant heads is that they are less likely to lead to the concentrated wear and pitting over time that can prevent repeatable, accurate clearance measurements. I would never yank my engine just to do the elephant feet; it would be an opportunistic move when the engine was out for a more compelling reason.
 
Okay. I wish Twomanyxs1 was my neighbor! I missed the needle bearing for the drum shifter. It must have fallen out before I closed the cases and I didn't notice. Twomanyxs1 helped identify the bearing and it's location and now it's installed. Here is where it goes. It's a needle bearing. 20mm x 36mm x 12mm.

The bearing
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Missing a bearing!
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Installed
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