1983 XS650 Project

The seat I have is in great shape I just don't like the way it looks. It's too wide and I don't like the double tier.
Thanks for the fork oil info. it seems simple enough I will go pick up some oil tomorrow, how will it change the way the bike rides?
I don't know where the air leak could be on the carbs. I put on new carb holders, or boots or whatever they are called, but I guess it could be the pods. It's not a major problem and for now I'm just going to enjoy riding while I can.

Hi shade,
you can't do much about the seat's width because it follows the line of the frame.
You can remove the cover (if you're careful with that you can sell the cover to Drew?)
Then re-shape the seat foam to a flatter shape and get a custom cover made for it.
If the old fork oil hasn't leaked away over the years you won't notice any difference in the handling unless you use a different weight of fork oil.
If there ain't any oil in there you will have noticed the forks still bouncing a quarter-mile down the road from the bump you hit.
Fork oil will fix that.
Mind you, if the forks are dry and the fork seals are shot, the new oil will leak out and contaminate your front brake pads. BTDT too. It's not a good thing.
My latest exhaust fireworks weren't an air leak after all; cleaning the left carb's slow running jet fixed it right up.
Pods, you say? What kinda pods, eh? There's only two kinds:-
Uni-pods, which work OK.
All the others, which don't work too well at all.
 
This is kind of what I am looking to do with the seat.
 

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I take it you're not too crazy about the direction I want to go to with the seat? The way it looks now it's an attractive woman with a giant butt. Some guys are into that but I like the way it looks with seat off and want to try to get it as sleek as possible. Open to any suggestions.
 
The seat on the bike pictured is sleek. To achieve that look You'ld have to remove all the protuberances on the rail and then get something like a skateboard for a base. Keep the current seat forks that hold the seat down in the front and then come up with something to hold the rear down. Get some foam and a cover.

You could do a fiberglass pan to form over the rails, also keeping the fork to secure the front and some kind of release for the rear. Here again all the protuberances need to be removed except where the fork secures the front, of course.

These rail line seats don't look good if you continue to use the airboxes side covers-as the covers are angled to match the stock seats low mid drop. Note the side covers on the bike in the pic......fabbed.
 
Still trying to resolve the seat issue, but obviously it's not that important.
The bike is running very well except for two small issues.

1. When I start the bike if I don't let it warm up for a significant amount of time it stalls when I put into 1st gear. If I engage the throttle a little bit it does not stall but it doesn't sound good for the bike.

2. Occasionally the vacuum hose from the petcock to the carburetor gets blown off of the carburetor attachment. I thought I had the proper size hose and hose clamp but I guess not, but what would cause this to happen?

I still need to change the fork oil but I'm just enjoying riding it for now. And working on the Honda CB200T I picked up...
Thanks again for all the help.
 
I've been away from the bike for a while but spent the day, cleaning and adjusting the carbs. Realized I had been measuring the floats improperly and corrected that, otherwise cleaned them very carefully. When I put the carburetors back on the bike they were still backfiring out of the vacuum line. Here is a link to some video of what is happening:


Also, as you can see in the engine still revs until I push on the lever (not sure what it the proper term for it.)
I would really like to hear what you guys think, if anyone has any suggestions.
Thanks
 
Well you're still at it and that's good.
Couple of things.
I'd be lubing that throttle cable real good, change out those air filters for Unis and get a good rubber vacuum line for the petcock with good hose clamps. Make sure the unused intake barb on the right carb manifold is capped and capped well. Personally I roll with old school manual petcocks, piss on them vacuums. Double check the carb intake manifolds to make sure there's no air leaks.
Engine sounds a bit more sewing machiney then it should. Mebbe cam chain/ valve adjustment needed.
Carbs look like you could eat off 'em.
 
I think it's trying to tell you it's a little lean at idle. What pilots are in it now? Also loosen the throttle cable, I think it's holding the carbs open. You're getting really close don't give up
 
Well you're still at it and that's good.
Couple of things.
I'd be lubing that throttle cable real good, change out those air filters for Unis and get a good rubber vacuum line for the petcock with good hose clamps. Make sure the unused intake barb on the right carb manifold is capped and capped well. Personally I roll with old school manual petcocks, piss on them vacuums. Double check the carb intake manifolds to make sure there's no air leaks.
Engine sounds a bit more sewing machiney then it should. Mebbe cam chain/ valve adjustment needed.
Carbs look like you could eat off 'em.

I think I'm going to replace the throttle cable as it's been kinked a bit during the different routing options I have tried.
What size are the vacuum line and clamps, I can't seem to get the right one when I've ordered in the past.
The unused intake barb on the right is capped well.
I replaced the intake manifolds awhile back, is there a proper way to test for leaks?
I will do the routine maintenance procedure again as it hasn't been done since I got the bike running.

Thanks for the help.
 
For the faster rev...I think your throttle cable is too tight. Is there room to adjust the tension at the bars?

As to backfiring, my thoughts: Too lean...what happens when you put the choke on, does the popping stop?

Also could be a vac. leak somewhere...When running, spray some starter fluid or the like around the ports, intake boots, etc. and see if the bike runs faster or even stalls.

Or could be a timing issue- I'm not as familiar with Electronic Ignition...but I don't think they tend to go out of time too often...however if you have a timing light, you may want to check and adjust if needed....I'd check the cam chain tension, adjust valves as well.
 
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For the faster rev...I think your throttle cable is too tight. Is there room to adjust the tension at the bars?

As to backfiring, my thoughts: Too lean...what happens when you put the choke on, does it popping stop?

Also could be a vac. leak somewhere...When running spray some starter fluid or the like around the ports, intake boots, etc. and see if the bike runs faster or even stalls.

Or could be a timing issue- I'm not as familiar with Electronic Ignition...so they don't tend to go out of time...however if you have a timing light, you may want to check and adjust if needed....I'd check the cam chain tension, adjust valves as well.

Good points to check.
In the video, something goofy is happening in that clear plastic line when the motor pops......wtf is that?. Figure the diameter of the vacuum line to the petcock and swing by a parts shop and pick up a couple of feet of actual vacuum line and a couple of clamps for it. You won't use a couple of feet but it's handy to have extra and it doesn't eat anything once you have it. If you ever go manual petcock you can use about a foot of vacuum line to link the intake barbs together or cap them both off.
Yeah, nice '83 there jussumguy.
 
For the faster rev...I think your throttle cable is too tight. Is there room to adjust the tension at the bars?

As to backfiring, my thoughts: Too lean...what happens when you put the choke on, does the popping stop?

Also could be a vac. leak somewhere...When running, spray some starter fluid or the like around the ports, intake boots, etc. and see if the bike runs faster or even stalls.

Or could be a timing issue- I'm not as familiar with Electronic Ignition...but I don't think they tend to go out of time too often...however if you have a timing light, you may want to check and adjust if needed....I'd check the cam chain tension, adjust valves as well.

It requires the choke to start, but once warmed up if you put the choke on it stalls. I didn't think timing was an issue on the later year models, but I will look into it.
Thanks
 
Good points to check.
In the video, something goofy is happening in that clear plastic line when the motor pops......wtf is that?. Figure the diameter of the vacuum line to the petcock and swing by a parts shop and pick up a couple of feet of actual vacuum line and a couple of clamps for it. You won't use a couple of feet but it's handy to have extra and it doesn't eat anything once you have it. If you ever go manual petcock you can use about a foot of vacuum line to link the intake barbs together or cap them both off.
Yeah, nice '83 there jussumguy.

I am not sure what is happening in the vacuum line when the motor pops I thought it was some kind of flash from the backfiring?
 
With that flash going on.....
I'd adjust the cam chain to the 1mm of movement, check and adjust the valves and then throw a timing light onit. The TCI is pretty well fixed in its timing but a stretched cam chain can move things a bit.
5Twins has a couple of pics on where it should be in idle and full advance using a timing light.
 
I adjusted the valves and the cam chain tensioner, and replaced the vacuum hose. Now when I start the bike it won't run at all without the choke on. I'm going to go check everything again but wanted to see if anyone had any ideas.
Thanks
 
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