1983 XS650 Project

[nj1639]

Fuel issue.
Pilot circuit or petcock. I don't fool with the vacuum petcocks but I'm thinking if you put it in the "prime" position it should flow fuel without needing the vacuum from the intake barb.
Try it in the prime position and see if you can back the choke off. Set your idle rpm to 1500 for starters and see if she'll idle there.
You may still have an issue with the throttle cable.

If I'm off base somebody tag me out.

 

[shade]

Adjusted the valves again after reading that they should be done after adjusting the cam chain tensioner. When I started the bike it was having the same problems, backfiring and a lot of smoke. After a minute or so it revved to about 4000 rpm then settled to a solid idle without any backfiring at all. You can see it here (sorry for poor video quality.)

I let it idle for about 10 minutes without any problems. Who knows what to expect next time I start it, but it's nice to hear it idle like that.
Thanks

 

[shade]

Fuel issue.
Pilot circuit or petcock. I don't fool with the vacuum petcocks but I'm thinking if you put it in the "prime" position it should flow fuel without needing the vacuum from the intake barb.
Try it in the prime position and see if you can back the choke off. Set your idle rpm to 1500 for starters and see if she'll idle there.
You may still have an issue with the throttle cable.

If I'm off base somebody tag me out.

NJ1639 you were definitely right about the throttle cable I lubed it up but also lubed up the spring at the throttle adjustment screw and though not perfect running much better.
Thanks

 

[nj1639]

Good to hear.....hopefully back to home plate and ready for the next pitch.
Sometimes a bunch of little stuff adds up to big problems. Confidence in the work that you perform on this bike will help in troubleshooting those little bumps as they come along. At some point all you'll have to worry about is running out of gas.......Not likely as these are our babies and need constant love and care........lol.

 

[gggGary]

I might check handlebar grounds and TRY moving the plug wire away from that vacuum line . It might be a misfire igniting fuel in the vacuum line. That would be way out on the weird side of XS problems!

 

[shade]

I might check handlebar grounds and TRY moving the plug wire away from that vacuum line . It might be a misfire igniting fuel in the vacuum line. That would be way out on the weird side of XS problems!

I will be away from the bike for a week or two which is frustrating, but glad to have made a bit of progress. It was slow starting this morning, but idled perfectly for 10 mins.
I am going to order a new throttle cable, a new vacuum hose, the round rubber pieces that mount the tank to the frame, and anything else anyone wants to suggest. I'd like to order everything at once to save on shipping.
Of course I was out of carb cleaner so didn't get to test the seals by the carb manifolds.
Thanks again for the help it very much appreciated, and everyone have a Happy New Year.

 

[lakeview]

If you have lubed the cable and it works well, save your money, ditto about the little rubber pucks, if the tank is not rattling off the back bone, those items will not improve the motor function. Vacuum lines and fuel lines you can buy in bulk locally, don't buy the high pressure fuel injection types, not flexible enough, zip ties are good clamps, in line filters as well, search this site for exactly what to get (there are some controversies). In other words, don't throw money at it and hope it works.

 

[shade]

I'm not back to where the bike is yet but can't wait to get back to work on it. One small problem I need to figure out is that after putting on the new master cylinder I realized the mirrors I have wouldn't fit it. So I ordered some bar end mirrors which I wanted to try out anyway. Being the genius that I am I didn't realize that my handlebars aren't open at the ends until removing the grips. So do I need to get new handlebars or can I drill through the ends of the bars (which seems a bit difficult to do properly.)

 

[Brassneck]

I'm not back to where the bike is yet but can't wait to get back to work on it. One small problem I need to figure out is that after putting on the new master cylinder I realized the mirrors I have wouldn't fit it. So I ordered some bar end mirrors which I wanted to try out anyway. Being the genius that I am I didn't realize that my handlebars aren't open at the ends until removing the grips. So do I need to get new handlebars or can I drill through the ends of the bars (which seems a bit difficult to do properly.)

You can simply cut the grip ends off, or cut a hole in the grip ends to expose the handlebar's hollow center. It's not hard, but depending on what your grips are made out of...it may take some work. If yours are like most and they're rubber, then just get a sharp razor blade... drilling rubber doesn't always work so well..but you could try that as well.

Once the bar-end mirrors are on..they'll likely cover up any cutting you did.

 

[shade]

You can simply cut the grip ends off, or cut a hole in the grip ends to expose the handlebar's hollow center. It's not hard, but depending on what your grips are made out of...it may take some work. If yours are like most and they're rubber, then just get a sharp razor blade... drilling rubber doesn't always work so well..but you could try that as well.

Once the bar-end mirrors are on..they'll likely cover up any cutting you did.

Thanks for responding. Not sure I understand, the handlebars themselves are sealed at the ends they aren't open ended for the mirrors to fit into.

 

[nj1639]

Thanks for responding. Not sure I understand, the handlebars themselves are sealed at the ends they aren't open ended for the mirrors to fit into.

Sounds like you may have end filled bars, not stock for an '83, and in that case the bar end mirrors won't work.

 

[Brassneck]

Oh, I must have misread...I thought you said you removing the grips showed the bars to be open..? I haven't seen many bars that are solid, nor sealed at the ends...you may want to check and see if drilling g the ends is possible...it shouldn't do anything to the integrity of the bars...if they're solid all the way through, then you'll need new bars or drill/tap the ends to screw in the mirrors directly.

 

[fredintoon]

- - - I didn't realize that my handlebars aren't open at the ends until removing the grips. So do I need to get new handlebars or can I drill through the ends of the bars (which seems a bit difficult to do properly.)

Hi shade,
seems like the '83's un-ergonomic rototiller bars were swapped out for earlier (mid '70s?) bars that had plugged ends.
The most economic fix is to buy another bar that don't have that feature.
Doing that will also give you an opportunity to try a different bend.
Or if the plugs are right near the ends, saw the ends off?

 

[shade]

I swapped the "rototiller" bars for Daytona bars over the summer. They are not that expensive so I will probable just order new bars.
I tried the lower almost straight bars before the daytona bars but they were to low.
Thanks

 

[shade]

Hey everyone, it's been awhile but I am back at it. The bike starts and idols and I was going to take it for a spin to see what needs work but when I put it in gear it stalls. I think it is the side stand relay switch but I don't know how to disconnect or check to see if it is the problem. Any suggestions? Thanks

 

[nj1639]

Try following the side stand switch wiring from the sidestand up to the connector on the left side. Disconnect the connector and loop the two wires that are coming down from the harness. That should restore the circuit........just remember to put yer side stand up, old school.

 

[buzzword]

Hey everyone, it's been awhile but I am back at it. The bike starts and idols and I was going to take it for a spin to see what needs work but when I put it in gear it stalls. I think it is the side stand relay switch but I don't know how to disconnect or check to see if it is the problem. Any suggestions? Thanks

check your clutch adjustment too - might be too loose and not letting the clutch engage completely.

 

[shade]

check your clutch adjustment too - might be too loose and not letting the clutch engage completely.

Looks like you were right something is wrong with the way the clutch cable is run. Gave it a twist and went for a 20 mile ride. I think I need to re-route the clutch and throttle cables.
Changed the oil and put in some new gas yesterday and the bike ran well.
Thanks

 

[fredintoon]

Looks like you were right something is wrong with the way the clutch cable is run. Gave it a twist and went for a 20 mile ride. I think I need to re-route the clutch and throttle cables.
Changed the oil and put in some new gas yesterday and the bike ran well.
Thanks

Hi Shade,
the less bends in a cable the easier it'll run.
The ultimate easy clutch cable run can be seen in the last pic in this photo link from the first post in Joe24's string:-
"advice on purchase of '79 650"
Photo album: https://goo.gl/photos/QE7xzQGdCuBJMx1k9
I ran my XS11's clutch cable that way and it cut the clutch pull by ~ 50%

 

[shade]

Hi Shade,
the less bends in a cable the easier it'll run.
The ultimate easy clutch cable run can be seen in the last pic in this photo link from the first post in Joe24's string:-
"advice on purchase of '79 650"
Photo album: https://goo.gl/photos/QE7xzQGdCuBJMx1k9
I ran my XS11's clutch cable that way and it cut the clutch pull by ~ 50%

Wow, thanks for sending those images. All of my cables run along the frame beneath the tank. I may order new cable housings for the clutch and throttle as these have been crimped and bent with all of the work I have done on the bike. If that doesn't help than maybe I will go this route.
I have to say it felt pretty great to be able to do 20 miles without any stalling, leaking, backfiring, or engine revving. I look forward to when I can get the bike to ride like that consistently.
Thanks