2003 Royal Enfield 500 Deluxe

Not sure what your searching has turned up yet, but I found this diagram for a 2004 Bullet.


RE Bullet 2004.jpg
 
RE Hack Am.jpg
I have a 2010 500, with sidecar. I think in 2009... ? They went with FI, hydraulic lifters.. electronic ignition... So it's pretty much change the oil and kick the tires. It'll cruise all day long at 55-60mph and still have some steam left in the kettle. My RE dealer tells me they got the 500 sorted but the older units are good for 45mph and sustained speeds higher then that isn't recommended. He's had a few in the shop where the owners thought they could do the interstate freeways... The top of the pistons would pop off... After 80 plus years they stop'd building the 500 series.
 
Jim, if PMA means a permanent magnet alternator, then it looks like the Bullet does indeed use a PMA.

The BB Power Box is described as 'single phase regulator suitable for any permanent magnet alternator single phase 2 or 3 wire up to 180 Watts.'

Hitchcocks say the Power Box 'replaces the problematic regulators/rectifiers fitted to the Indian built "classic" engined Bullets.'

So if I have understood correctly, then the rec/rec I have in the XS spares box won't do.

Thank you for the wiring diagram. There are three diagrams in my workshop manual, for US&Canada, UK and Regular and I don't know which is closest for my bike. Also, they are B&W while the one you have sourced is in colour so I like that one best. And yours has a starter motor, the three in the manual don't.

Seriously, fink I might need to spend some garage time with the bike and see if I can understand the wiring. Possibly without taking it all apart, which as you might be aware is what I did on two other bikes.

At this early stage I'm thinking that if everything works and seems robust then no point tearing it all apart.

Motormike, a good cautionary tale. I think most people with any mechanical sympathy would understand that an Enfield is not suitable for sustained highway speeds. But the piston top flying off would be the bike's last desperate attempt to get the message over to those devoid of sympathy.

We don't have any motorways in the Scottish Borders but plenty of country roads where the bike is intended to be used.
 
Seriously, fink I might need to spend some garage time with the bike and see if I can understand the wiring. Possibly without taking it all apart, which as you might be aware is what I did on two other bikes.
I think that's your best bet Raymond. You might even discover the Boyer will work just fine if it's wired correctly. Spend some and get to know the bike.

We don't have any motorways in the Scottish Borders but plenty of country roads where the bike is intended to be used.
If that was my riding range, your little Enfield would be very high on my list of fun bikes to own.
 
You might even discover the Boyer will work just fine if it's wired correctly.

Jim, I've no reason to think it doesn't work just fine now - the only problem has been that the smart charger and the Power box have trades union issues, so to speak. Everything electrical seems to work and when I went for a short ride the ammeter reported battery charging was happening.

Yes, looking forward to having fun on the local roads next year.

I know of an American gentleman who enjoys a newer Enfield Bullet on his roads in the rural parts of Kansas.
 
There were several versions of the 500 single. The original iron barrel, electra, AVL and the UCE. If he went to the forum I posted the link to the guys there could tell him exactly what he has. Some of the most knowledgeable RE people hang out there. A lot like this forum post a question with pics and you will get some help. There is also a member here that was a RE dealer, I just can not remember his name.
upload_2021-11-19_13-16-47.png
 
There were several versions of the 500 single. The original iron barrel, electra, AVL and the UCE. If he went to the forum I posted the link to the guys there could tell him exactly what he has. Some of the most knowledgeable RE people hang out there. A lot like this forum post a question with pics and you will get some help. There is also a member here that was a RE dealer, I just can not remember his name.

Thanks, Greg, as you say several versions of the 500 single. Mine is the iron barrel. The AVL, aka the lean burn engine, had a different cylinder head and was developed with the help of an Austrian engineering consultancy - it's more modern than mine. Not sure when the 5-speed gearbox first appeared but I think the first ones were for the US market? Not well regarded because the first ones had a terrible, sloppy linkage which made the gearchange even worse. The UCE is the unit construction engine, came in around 2009, much more modern than mine. I think by this time they have a better 5-speed gearbox?

As I said, mine was July 2002 and it seems to have been a period of change with some bikes having electric start and some not. I think they were all just Bullets at that time. Not too sure what engine the Electra had but I think it denotes CDI ignition? I have been to the Unofficial Royal Enfield Forum and found some useful stuff but haven't joined yet.
 
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Started today by washing the saddle with isopropyl alcohol:

PICT2754.JPG


Seems to be taking the shininess off but not removing the surface. We think it's proper leather not some sort of plastic? But the colour isn't coming off. Will give it a few more washes and see where I get to.
 
Asked my in house saddle expert and she expressed that even/lasting leather dye results are hard to achieve.
Fiebing's Leather Dye is alcohol based. I've used it but uneven color was an issue. The job I had was very difficult, bird poop had bleached several areas of a gray leather MC seat. You might get good even results by using a spray applicator. (a paint gun?)
 
Started today by washing the saddle with isopropyl alcohol:

View attachment 202014


Seems to be taking the shininess off but not removing the surface. We think it's proper leather not some sort of plastic? But the colour isn't coming off. Will give it a few more washes and see where I get to.

Hi Raymond
As stated before most leathers have a polyurethane (read plastic) paint surface; depending on the processes involved the heavy coatings will be fully sealed, the lighter variants will be semi aniline(SA). The SA types still have some porosity which allows the leather to breath, and you still feel the leather texture. Any mild cleaners will only take the surface dirt away and not effect the 'paint' below.

Your leather may well be a full aniline (un-protected) leather with a waxed or oiled surface. The cleaning agent will remove the dirt and oil/wax leaving the through dyed natural leather surface. Be careful as too much cleaning application could 'beach out' the water based dye. Or you may end up with 'water marks' in the surface as the cleaning agent get absorbed in greater or lesser patches. Good thing is if it is a full aniline you can dye the surface fairly easily.
KR
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Yes Sir
This is an Impressing site since here are People who knows things

I work in the furniture upholstery sector.

Why not give a figure in the ball park what a saddler or furniture upholsterer would charge for a first class Job
Taking it during slow hours like 6 months. in the Winter
I once did it in fake later ( plastic ) xs 650 it was some years ago but it was in the 20 -- 30 Euro region
Much larger saddle with hooks and stuff under .Still have it .No complaint whatsover .
My own fault I did not go for leather. Was Dumb.....

Say double that for leather and then get a proper job ..
In these days with freight and handling it quickly gets expensive
Some Chemicals 10 euro + Freight 6 euro some rags brushes .. then we are there + 20 Euro region already
Slow season job with no time constraints can be wort asking
The bike looks in fine condition also




 
Yes Sir
This is an Impressing site since here are People who knows things

I work in the furniture upholstery sector.

Why not give a figure in the ball park what a saddler or furniture upholsterer would charge for a first class Job
Taking it during slow hours like 6 months. in the Winter
I once did it in fake later ( plastic ) xs 650 it was some years ago but it was in the 20 -- 30 Euro region
Much larger saddle with hooks and stuff under .Still have it .No complaint whatsover .
My own fault I did not go for leather. Was Dumb.....

Say double that for leather and then get a proper job ..
In these days with freight and handling it quickly gets expensive
Some Chemicals 10 euro + Freight 6 euro some rags brushes .. then we are there + 20 Euro region already
Slow season job with no time constraints can be wort asking
The bike looks in fine condition also



This is worth a watch!
 
Amazing I have been doing work on sewing machines. ca 20 of them Mostly Industrial machines
They seldom have any major faults , Unless some serious misuse have happened

This is a case of an experienced expert making it look simple.
Sewing that checkered pattern on the fly without any guiding.
Skipping a stich or not hitting the line ..?? ??? . Not for me Cant do it.
Have tried. Hell of a lot more difficult than I Believed from the start.

.
 
Before and after of my saddle dyeing:

PICT2754.JPG PICT2756.JPG

Have since applied a wee bit of neutral shoe polish and buffed it up a bit. Bought some Resolene finishing stuff which is supposed be resilient and waterproof. But reading about it, the stuff can be tricky to apply and all to easy to end up with a sticky and streaky finish so for now I'll go with the shoe polish.

Taste is individual but I'll be much happier with the saddle on the bike now it's been toned down a bit.
 
Don't wear your favorite pair of pants for the first couple rides 'specially when it's warm out. Some color variation from riding, wear is good thing..........
Just like a bike with some patina is more attractive (to me) than an overly restored trailer queen.
 
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