2021 and the XS650

Oil...:hump: The VTwin oils have a higher temperature stability additive package, so this is a good choice for the XS which gets quite warm in Summer above 25 Celsius.

I recently read an article from an oil company and they say the base oil (mineral, semi sythetic or synthethic) is not an issue regarding engine wear. The wear resistance is down to the additive package used. As 5twins mentioned, synthetic is bit of a waste because we change the oil regularly, typically every 1000 miles.

The regular oil changes are due to the crank roller bearings chewing up the oil. I find that oil consumption and engine noise increase when the oil is getting worn out, anywhere from 900 - 1500 miles depending on oil brand or batch number.

Zinc content in the oil is important for old engines because their lubication systems do not get the oil circulating particularly well at startup with a cold engine - also good for the camshaft and rockers. Studies indicate Zinc content should be greater than 800ppm. Zinc removal, or its minimisation due to catalyzer and environmental issues, from oils does not apply to oils rated for racing, classic engines and 20w50 oils (and higher viscosities). Often the manufacturer will state the Zinc content e.g. the Morris U.K. Vtwin oil I use is rated at 1100ppm.

The key points about oil for motorcycles with wet clutches are the Manufactures specification which will state JASO MA. The JASO MA means the oil is suitable for engines where the oil is shared by the Engine, Gearbox and Clutch. The most common viscosity rating mentioned for the XS650 on this site is 20W50. As to which brand to use, there are hundreds of choices.

Your choice of Mobil 1 20w-50 VTwin synthetic oil seems perfectly OK: JASO MA, High Zinc additive level approx. 1700ppm, Enhanced thermal stability.

Enjoy your bike!!!
 
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Once the tire was off a few days ago - I went ahead and began the process of replacing the bearings and lacing/respoking the wheel.

(The new bearings)
PXL_20210819_234622371.jpg


Removing the bearings was not too difficult (a little barbaric, but not too difficult). I first used a screwdriver and removed the non-drive side seal. Then, I tried to use a long screw driver and catch the bearing lip from inside the spacer - with the intention of tapping out the non-drive side bearing. This didn't work. So, I grabbed a socket that matched the size of the inner diameter of the drive-side bearing (it's technically matching the diameter of the little top-hat spacer inside the drive-side bearing). I used a socket extension, and gave it the deeds (I used quite a bit of force). This worked, and pushed out the non-drive side bearing. The spacer came out as well, with the top hat spacer. Then, I knocked out the drive-side bearing using the socket by tapping from the non-drive side.

(old bearings out, new ones about to go in)
PXL_20210820_221250793.jpg


Installing the bearings was a smooth process. I stuck them in the freezer for a couple hours prior to beginning (side note: during this time I wired up by master cylinder brake light line. I used two female connectors to attach to the prongs coming out of the master cylinder. Taped and heat-shrinked the wires, good-to-go). I inserted the spacer (longer side to the drive-side) and inserted the top-hat spacer into the larger drive-side bearing (used a piece of wood and tapped it in evenly). Next, I placed the smaller non-drive side bearing and used a piece of wood and tapped it in evenly. This took quite a bit of force. Once it was flush with the hub, I used a socket that was just large enough to cover the metal edge of the bearing and the inner metal ring - this is to not punch through the plastic of the bearing. I tapped in the bearing by moving the socket around the bearing making sure it went in evenly. I followed a similar process on the drive-side bearing. Finally, I installed the seals.


Cleaning the rim and hub was nothing too special. I'm not going for a total rebuff/shine - Just got the grime off and used some simple cleaner and polish. I cleaned the brake dust from the drum brake too. I will do this again once tire is on the wheel.

Lacing the rear wheel was fairly simple. I took a picture of both side of the wheel beforehand. I first inserted all the interior spokes (the 90 degree bent spokes go from inside to out, and the > 90 degree spokes go from outside to inside - at least that's what I noted when uninstalling the old spokes). I screwed the nipples on loosely when installing the spokes. I did the same for the outside spokes. Pretty easy. Oh - I also lubricated the nipples prior to installing the spokes.

(lacing the wheel)
PXL_20210821_005041445.jpg


(laced up)
PXL_20210821_022101063.jpg

Truing the wheel was a bit more tedious but zen - put some music on, make a coffee, take your time. I do not have a truing stand, so I rigged one up using two jack stands, a small flathead screw driver, and a 6" ruler. I taped the screw driver horizontally for a side-to-side pointer, and the ruler vertically for an up-down reference point. So I went through and worked out the side-to-side wobble. Then, I adjusted groups of spokes to work out the up-and-down wobble. I noted my wheel has a little bit of a 'hop' in it - tried to mitigate it as much as possible during truing - but the hop seems to be less than an 1/8" of an inch. I think we're OK.

(judge a man not by his truing stand, but by his truth)
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Will need to get tires and brake shoes before balancing and moving onto the front wheel. Any recommendations for a 60/40 or 80/20 dual sport tire that would fit a 16" rear and 19" front? Preferably nothing too knobby.
 
Installed a new fuse box this evening. Ended up botching the wire job where I needed to install a clip to the harness (the new fuse box just clips in). So, I rewired the clips on both the new fuse box and the harness.
PXL_20210822_161950515.jpg


(ended up rewiring both clip ends with new clips - I have the main 20A flowing through its own clip (no specific reason) but it works).
PXL_20210822_231642841.jpg


(still trying to find a place to install. in hindsight, I should have shortened the wires of the new box. Will likely rewire the whole xs this winter).
PXL_20210822_233235103.jpg
 
When I swapped in a new stock type fusebox like your's I found the space very tight. Then I tried soldering the wires but they became to stiff. In the end I used butt connectors with a bit of heat shrink and it worked fine:
s-l225.webp


These butt connects when crimpled give a very strong joint, especially if you can double the wire over.
 
When I swapped in a new stock type fusebox like your's I found the space very tight. Then I tried soldering the wires but they became to stiff. In the end I used butt connectors with a bit of heat shrink and it worked fine:
s-l225.webp


These butt connects when crimpled give a very strong joint, especially if you can double the wire over.
Thanks Paul - I'll check these out. Looks handy to keep around.
 
When I swapped in a new stock type fusebox like your's I found the space very tight. Then I tried soldering the wires but they became to stiff. In the end I used butt connectors with a bit of heat shrink and it worked fine:
s-l225.webp


These butt connects when crimpled give a very strong joint, especially if you can double the wire over.
That’s how I do it. Just use the correct size and the proper crimper. Don’t double the wire over.
 
That’s how I do it. Just use the correct size and the proper crimper. Don’t double the wire over.

Thanks Marty - I'm going to be looking at rewiring the whole bike this winter and will consider these as an option. I want to get as close to bullet proof as I can with it - would like to have the bike as a vintage adv/overlanding outfit, just thinking out loud.
 
Thanks Marty - I'm going to be looking at rewiring the whole bike this winter and will consider these as an option. I want to get as close to bullet proof as I can with it - would like to have the bike as a vintage adv/overlanding outfit, just thinking out loud.
These splicess are better than solder joints. I’m NASA trained at soldered connections. I always opt for the naked butt splice and heat shrink if possible. It does require some proper tooling. More on that later.
 
These splicess are better than solder joints. I’m NASA trained at soldered connections. I always opt for the naked butt splice and heat shrink if possible. It does require some proper tooling. More on that later.

Thank for this info Marty - I might reach out to you for questions later on regarding wiring. I have some basic experience soldering small computer components as a hobby (raspberry pi and arduino boards) - but in terms of overall circuitry my knowledge is basic.
 
I replaced the fuse box on my bike this spring using a similar box as yours. The previous fuse box had little tabs at the ends of the fuse holders. This prevented
IMG_20210823_101950.jpg
the fuses from creeping out from vibration. The junk I got from xsdirect does not have anything to prevent the fuses from creeping out. I glued some bits of plastic on the inside of the lid. This should hold the fuses in place. I chose to use a set of connectors to hook mine up. The previous repair (butt splices)by the former owner did not hold up well. I already had the crimping tool and spare terminals.
 
I replaced the fuse box on my bike this spring using a similar box as yours. The previous fuse box had little tabs at the ends of the fuse holders. This prevented View attachment 197070 the fuses from creeping out from vibration. The junk I got from xsdirect does not have anything to prevent the fuses from creeping out. I glued some bits of plastic on the inside of the lid. This should hold the fuses in place. I chose to use a set of connectors to hook mine up. The previous repair (butt splices)by the former owner did not hold up well. I already had the crimping tool and spare terminals.
Yes, I think the vibration was one of the main culprits behind the original fuse box's decay - many of the brass terminals were loose in the box, and the fuses didn't stay in. Good idea including something to hold the fuses in - I'll do something similar.

I'm trying to figure out a place to mount the fuse box and will likely use a rubber grommet to help mitigate vibrations to the fuse box.
 
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Quick question - been having some carb issues, specifically idling. Would only run with choke and plugs fouled, no surprise. Was going back over my carbs to clean again, and realized my pilot jet has no breather holes. Am I crazy or should it have breather holes? Carb mikuni BS38 with a rebuild kit. My hunch is that combination of no breather holes on pilot, along with having unipod filters - I'm having to run with the choke on. But then it's too rich for the plugs. Will probably size up one on the pilot. Any opinion on the breather holes, or lack thereof?
PXL_20210916_235426035.PORTRAIT.jpg
 
Which end is the metering orifice in, the threaded or the tapered end?


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I'm thinkin' the air holes aren't needed on the later 38's like you have, but I'm not the expert on 'em. I expect 5twins will be along to set us both straight.
27.5 is correct for that model jet... stock anyway.
 
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