For Sale - 277 Rephased NEW cam for sale

howardsmed

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Smedspeed 277 rephased cam for sale. type 3 ( a 277 degree copy of a Megacycle 250-30 cam)
right side leads left.

A NEW billet steel cam, excellent cam for 750 engine, MUST have more compression than stock to work well. too much cam for a 650

new cam, no sprocket £215 + P&P ( UK only)

it is entirely feasible to modify your stock sprocket to fit this cam, if you know how to use a lathe.

email me through the site
 
I designed all the parts that Rick Forte at Smedspeed sells, he has stock of the valves I am sure as he ordered a huge quantity recently, the valves sold by other manufacturers were quite good ( some) but had small design anomalies, I worked with G&S valves to design a truly good valve kit. IF you replace the valves, and ensure the valve to guide clearance is good ( inlet 0.0008 and exhaust 0.012'') then you will have a very high flowing head, that will support big torque and power. I use a firm in Chobham to cut the valve seats, their machine is £85K one of only two in the UK, Cosworth own the other one. The valve seats they cut are superb, I designed the shape's with Steve who is extremely knowledgeable. Our race bike and most of the flat track, drag engines use seats cut by them.

a well built 750 engine with a Shell #1 cam and good carburation and exhaust will produce over 65hp ( rear wheel) it will last a long time, not vibrate, not use oil. our 750 race engine did a 1000 RACE miles, and it is far from worn out

H
 
thanks for you knowledge there is no substitute for time served experience I will get back to rick next week and order from him once again thanks Andy.
 
Hi Andy

I was going to send you a reply so you avoid the pitfalls sometimes associated with building a nice engine. I am going to write a long winded cam choice thread, but in the meantime let me explain ( its a wet Saturday afternoon, and I have nothing else to do until the Sooty show starts later)

ALL the cams available from any source for the XS650 are really only intended for 750cc application, the sole reason being that when the cam forms were initially developed by Yamaha and others in the 70s all the engines built for performance were 750cc. The cams mostly used were cams for flat track racing, in the USA this is a long cinder/dirt track, around a 1/2 or 1 mile long. I watched a load of HD XR750s racing at San Jose over 30 years ago, it was stupendous, the noise, the dust !! . However all they are after is maximum power in a relatively narrow power band, they rev their engines between 4000 and 8000 rpm , this is the nature of flat tracking, and XS650/750 type flat tackers will be the same. The archetypal flat track cam the Shell#1 is a 750 cam, Shell (Sheldon Thuett) built race engines, all his bikes were 750. This is actually a very good street cam, the #1 cam is for 1/2 miles where you need more tractability, whereas the #2 ( rarely seen) is a 1 mile cam. Carburation and exhaust pipe/silencer choice can calm any cam down if it is a bit wild, as can advancing the inlet timing a degree or two.

When you build an XS650 and leave it 650cc, if you install any cam other than the stock cam form, the bottom end power will suffer. It is wholly possible to recoup some lost bottom end by increasing the compression, but on a 650 this is limited to skimming the head/cylinder and fitting thinner head gaskets. The only exception is to use the earlier XS1/XS2 cam form, on a stock phased engine this requires changing either the crank sprocket or cam sprocket to allow the cam to fit ( the early engines have a different cam chain pitch, and the sprockets are 17/34 not the later 18/36 from 1974 onwards) if you are building a 277 degree re-phased engine, Smedspeed in the UK keep billet cams with this XS1/XS2 cam form.

If you build a 750 cc engine ( which was always my preferred choice) the compression is always higher as you have more swept volume with the same/slightly less combustion chamber volume. The piston choice for 750s is much better, real quality pistons from Wiseco, Wossner and JE. A 750 engine will put up with much more cam than a 650, the bigger engine will "want" more duration and lift, not just put up with it.

Simply stated the more cc and compression you have the more cam you can run. The dynamic compression of an engine is all important, and the earlier the inlet cam closes the lower down the rev band the engine will make good torque. On the race bikes we juggled cam choice and inlet closing figures for five years to get the effects we wanted.

The 880cc race bike we run has a very high lift and long duration cam, in a 650 that cam would be just awful, but in the big cc race bike it makes it a torque monster.

IF I doubt about which cam to use, always look at the inlet closing figure. This coupled with the dynamic compression figure will decide how well you engine runs out of its torque band.

I do not generally speak about power when tuning engines. Power is torque x rpm. So if you have good torque you will end up with good power anyway, torque is produced by filling the cylinders full of air/fuel mix and anything that reduces that at any rpm reduces torque and thus the power.

if you email what you want from an engine, I will suggest the ways to do it. Rick will sell you all the parts of course, I am his technical resource for when he needs it ( not often)

Howard
 
sorry for the late reply I have been in the garage all afternoon my bike is an XS 2 but I have bought a hienden 750 barrel and wiseco pistons the crank is going to rick for rebuild and re phase I will be using it for street use so any advise will be greatly appreciated to help me reach the best goal without wasting money thanks Andy.
 
If your bike is an XS2 it will have 22mm gudgeon pins, the con rods are 136mm centres.
The wiseco 447 pistons you bought are for a 447 crank, these have 20 mm pins and 130mm centres con rods.

you cannot mix the two, the pistons will poke out of the top of the cylinder by 6mm

you have a problem. you can fit 447 rods to a 256 crank, but the XS2 crank has two lead weights in the number four crank-web , these are always loose.
why did you not ask before you bought ?

what do you mean the best goal ? you must have an idea of its intended use and your budget
 
I have bought a 447 crank for the bike and all the cam chain gear, new rods and mains to go in at the point of re phase what I meant was I am not afraid to spend on the engine but getting it right the first time round is always going to save money I also may be able to sell the 256 crank ,cam and barrels/ pistons you never know.
 
That is the way to go a 447 crank, new rods, and mains. I have built around 250 cranks and except for about three they all needed mains or rods. Get one of Ricks filter kits, the one that sits under the engine, it will prolong the life of your new crank by three times. don't bead blast the top crank case half, it can be cleaned with a new stainless steel wire brush and about three hours of boring work. clean everything when its reassembled and then clean it all again, any foreign matter in your engine upon reassembly is the kiss of death. clean the bores well, very hot water and lots of fairy liquid.
as you parts in the engine, if you are running a Shell # 1 then 32 or 34 mm carbs, 34mm carbs will give you more at 7000rpm, but only a few hp, a 2:1 exhaust with some type of absorption silencer. the Wiseco pistons are a bit too much compression for a Shell cam, so mill the tops of around 0.125''. to get the squish clearance right you will end up taking some metal off the top of the cylinder, you want 0.030'' squish, a copper head gasket will go some way to getting this right

are you using a DID cam chain ?


you can always ask me anything else, or Rick

Howard
 
yes I have a new did cam chain and a sump filter kit from hienden also 34 mm MIKUNI tm 120 racked carbs I have stainless headers and will be running reverse cone silencers almost straight through what's your opinion on the torque inserts for the exhausts ?
 
the sump filter from Jerry Van der Heiden is still a gauze, find me any vehicle that uses that idea. modern vehicles use spin off paper filters.
Rick still sells Jerry cams, head gaskets, valves etc

torque inserts are rubbish, what pipe diameter ?
 
I meant the pick up strainer in the sump that usually tears I will be using a paper filter in the cooler the pipe diameter is 42mm
 
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