Bezel removal and gauge repair 70-83

What do you charge to replace the glass?"
It's not the labor, it's the shipping!
 
After cleaning the glass the Gauges look fresh and clean, amazing how they come up.

I would charge $80.00 for a set.That includes checking the Gauge for moisture, (no use cleaning then have the Gauge produce condensation on a sunny day), Checking the response of the needle, the removal cleaning and replacing of the glass, give the shadow ring a flat black paint, clean up the plastic housing and around the drive area.

gentlemanjim as gggary says i live in Aus. Postage 2 ways would be more than $100
 
Well fancy that:thumbsup:
I lucked out and bought 3 sets of XS gauges from a wrecker today, and now need to know how to renovate one set for my 1970 XS1.
Can you tell me how to dismantle the gauges? Obviously removing the two little screws on the bottom helps, but the gauges still wont come apart even with twistin' and a shakin':doh:
Also, has anyone ever rechromed the gauge bodies?????
Help would be appreciated.
At the end of the day I will have at least 2 sets of gauges to sell. One set is definitely XS1, the other set has a thick rubber ring on the top and may be XS2 or TX even......
Comments, opinions, offers???
Will post pics shortly of what will be surplus and for sale, with any deficiencies noted:thumbsup:
the-oz-slider
 
Don't forget to use blue loctite (242 or 243) on the two screws that hold the guage face in place. It wouldn't be great they come loose after you reassemble your guage ...
 
That's a great write up! I'll be using that soon since there is some crud on the inside of my gauges.
 
I used this method this afternoon to take apart and put back together my '81 speedo, to put a screw back in the face, and it's surprisingly easy!

Somewhere I read a writeup that goes with these pictures, but I can't find it now. To put it back together I pushed the rim back down with a piece of 3/8" square bar I have, because it gave a smoother result than the screwdriver. Fortunately I had a pre-bent screwdriver of the right size to take it apart with, that's been real useful over the years.

In an hour I had the fine points down and had it back together successfully. Ought to be in the tech section if it isn't.
 
Yea it is easy, like you said take the time to do the first one. Moisture builds up through the metal parts in these gauges and condensates on the inside of the lenses, when the glass face is off let the gauge sit in the sun or a WARM oven with the door open for a few sec's to rid the gauge of moisture before replacing the face glass
 
Wonder if those little silica packs could help.....
Not an advocate for theft or deception but for myself I've turned the clock back on a used- non stock for my bike-120 MPH speedo to reflect the miles I've run since my possesion and top end rebuild. I logged the original miles down in my Haynes for future reference.
 
DITTO - I ran across this thread and am denied access to the album. I'd like to take my gauges apart and clean them over the winter - plus my speedo oscillates and I'd like to see if I can get it to run a little steadier (syggestions most welcome on that BTW).

Skull - could you please re-post - OR - how do we get access?

Cheers,

Pete
 
The TM - I put all new cables on the bike (clutch, speedo, tach and throttle) - for the princely sum of about $60 for all four. It just didn't seem to be worth the grief of having a throttle stick or some other catastrophe on the road. Besides, for some reason, the old cables had breaks in the sheaths and these were badly repaired with bits of tape.

Anyhow, my issue must be inside the gauge, as you say. I will take it apart and have a looky.

Cheers and thanks!

Pete
 
Hey @650Skull is there any way I could have access to see the album for removing the gauge cover? I'm getting denied access right now...............Also, how do you test with a drill if the gauges work?

Did some work on them. Permissions on.

I use the last 3"-4" of the top of and old cable. Using an Electric speed drill, is important. Round part of the cable in the chuck and use the square end as intended on the gauge.......................

Note to Brain.............Use the drill in Reverse .........Check speed, Speed of drill dictates speedo speed.

Caution
; Same drill will top out the Rev-counter....Go easy on the trigger
 
Thanks Skull for the info. I ended up diving in and i don't think i broke anything haha. Went in reverse, didn't know to go easy on the tach, but just chilled on it when it got high. I am considering sending my gauges to a place I saw on here that is located a few states away in Georgia, but I did read that it is hundreds to get them up to speed. See what i did there hahahaha I'm so funny. It's a bummer it will probably be expensive, but I'm starting to think I'd really just like to see the stock ones working if I am going to try to make this thing as stock as possible. Ugh. More money, I guess we'll see. . . I'm sorry to say it Skull, but it still won't let me be able to see the pics. Don't worry about it though, as I said I possibly will get them fixed by someone else.
 
I changed the wrong permission. Done now for sure........................................Taking off the fave and cleaning up the glass is real easy and cheap. The grease in the shaft goes hard, Maybe a little heat from a hairdrier, (no responsibility taken), to loosen it but don't turn upside down
 
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