72....starts on first kick. if not, wont hardly start at all

[DougXS2]

so...as the title says. if it doesnt hit on the first kick, it sounds flooded and I have to kick it for maybe 10-15 times...

what factors control this in the carbs (I'm assuming carb probs?)....?

I had the sliders set one groove leaner in the past and nearly blue'd the pipes...but I 'think' I recall it starting more consistently. I could be incorrect about that ...it was a while ago.

I think the jets are stock 135's I believe. and carbs are stock 38s. everything is stock. exhaust, aircleaners, etc.

 

[cros36]

does the kicker arm feel easier to kick if it doesnt fire?

as in first kick feels solid, then no fire, and as you kick it more it seems easier to kick?

 

[gggGary]

Leaky float valves or high float level. pull a plug after the first kick is it wet? torch the plug dry see if it starts easy. How good does the spark look? A weak spark will let a plug fuel foul VERY easy. Has the ignition be r&R'd new coils, plug wires, fresh plugs condensers, points cleaned and gapped, timing set? Hows the compression. valves set cam chain tension set? How soon do you take off the choke? If it doesn't start first kick try taking hte choke off before kick two, if that works the plugs are getting wet.

 

[DougXS2]

the kicker definately has a different feel if it doesn't fire.

as for the list Gary...

I have: set cam chain tension, cleaned points, set valves, (carbs are rebuilt), cleaned and recut/connected plug wires, spark seems good, battery good etc.

compression (cold) is right @ 152 in each cyl.

and honestly, I don't really seem to need the choke. it acts about the same either way at first kick.


btw, the electric start almost NEVER fires her up. unless its up to running temp and stalled in traffic or something.

I get MUCH better results from kicking than with the elect starter....but just chalked that up to the decompressor and weak starter design?

 

[gggGary]

check your voltage at the coils brown / red/white connector should show 11.5 or above? If it's low find the problem(s) and fix em?

 

[GreasyC]

Would be pretty tough to blue an xs pipe, they're double walled so the chromed part isn't actually contacting the exhaust. Wouldn't change the needle clip position, it more affects the middle rpm range. The pilot circuit governs your starting and idling. It's also the thinest and easiest to get dirty. Get it real clean and use the mixture screw to adjust it to where it's happy. If that's way different than the manual setting (I think 1 turn for 38s) then you need to change the pilot jet.

 

[DougXS2]

can you give me some details on how to check the voltage on the coils?

 

[yamaman]

You just need a meter accross the 2 wires that supply each coil. Old connectos and switches can drain power, and too much will stuff you up. If you find low voltage, try running a hot wire straight from the battery, that could solve it. If that helps, pull all your connectors and switches and clean them all up. cheers

Posted via Mobile

 

[gggGary]

hmm I would suggest cleaning setting points and I might even throw on new condensers just because if you haven't. There's a reason the old auto tune up kits always included a new condenser... And in this situation I would throw a set of jumpers to a NOT RUNNING car or garden tractor and see if it changed how it starts. Yamaman's answer is good, I keep a jumper wire with a switch just for eliminating a bunch of crap connections to see if it helps starting.

 

[DougXS2]

thanks. more great things to try.

Cros36, why did you ask me about the difference in kicker feel? because thats definately there......

the first initial 'dry' kick is tight and compressed....and if it doesn't fire then....the following ones are low compression and gargle-y......