77 Cafe Project

Here are a few pictures of the current progress. Kind of bouncing around a bit.

Radian swingarm mocked into the bike. You can also see the hacked rear loop. Waiting for my heating nozzle to arrive for the welder. I want to bend the frame section down just above the shock mount. That uptick drive me crazy :).

Frame cuts
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Swingarm

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I also worked on the clip-ons a little. I added BB's to the inside of the bars to help dampen the vibrations a little bit. You can just see them in this picture.

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I also didn't like the bar end mirror mounts (the one on the top) as they were an expansion style and figured they would end up being a problem. I made a new made out of 5/8" rod (drilled and tapped) to fit in the bar. These were peened and JB welded into the bar ends on top of the BB's. Find out tomorrow if it will work :).

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Your making nice progress. I run a set of bar end mirrors that are expansion style and have no problems. JB welding them in would be a pita to remove them if you didn't like them.
 
Your making nice progress. I run a set of bar end mirrors that are expansion style and have no problems. JB welding them in would be a pita to remove them if you didn't like them.

Well only the threaded part I made is in the bar, the mirror can still be removed. If I changed mirrors I would simply (or not so simply) modify the mirrors to work with the mounts in the bars.

Could also simply replace the bars themselves as well. I sourced the material from McMasters to do just that a couple of months ago.
 
Why do/did you think the expansion mount would not work? That style has been around for ever.

The mechanism on these mirrors were all aluminum and did not really tighten up or fit the bar ends very well. And the combination of stainless steel screws and aluminum threads is a recipe for disaster due to galvanic corrosion.
 
That's why most of us use anti-seize compound. It should be on practically every nut, bolt, and screw on your bike, especially the ones going into aluminum. About the only place I don't use it is on internal carb and motor parts.
 
That's why most of us use anti-seize compound. It should be on practically every nut, bolt, and screw on your bike, especially the ones going into aluminum. About the only place I don't use it is on internal carb and motor parts.

I agree. I always use it as well. Just not a fan of aluminum threads. Rather use a helicoil in aluminum.
 
Your headlight looks great, it really ties the front end together.


Thanks, I would like to drop it about 1 to 1 1/2" inches down on the forks, but at this point the mounts hit the tank. Really need to see how it looks once the gauge cluster is installed. Solutions for the tank., push the tank down farther or back on the frame. Not sure which is the better approach. Any suggestions?

Lookin rad. I really like what you did with the mirrors. Looks very clean

Thanks, they did turn out better than I expected. The grips were a pain to install, especially the throttle side.
 
Your tank looks like its sitting as low as it will go..In the pic it looks like the bottom of tank sides are practicaly resting on your head bolts . or is this an optical illusion?? Let us know what you come up with for a rear axle with using that rad. arm.
 
Your tank looks like its sitting as low as it will go..In the pic it looks like the bottom of tank sides are practicaly resting on your head bolts . or is this an optical illusion?? Let us know what you come up with for a rear axle with using that rad. arm.


Yeah it is pretty low, I think the best route is to relocated the tank rear mounting pin back about 1/2". This will give the proper clearance. I just got my Rosebud nozzle for my welder so I will heat and flatten the old tank mount locations. The gap between the ears is narrower on the 750 tank.


Yes it is an optical illusion, there is about an inch of clearance in there.

As far as an axle, I picked up a CB750 axle with all of the spacers. The Radian also came with all of the spacers as well and a few minutes on the drill press they will be the correct diameter :).

I will have to farm out cutting the spacers to the correct length. Seeing how much wider the swignarm has me thinking about a rear disk....... I think this project has a bit of scope creep....
 
OK I need some input, by Sunday I should be ready to drop the engine, finish up the grinding and get it ready for paint.

Now should I paint or powdered coat the frame and swingarm. If I paint it, I will use black epoxy paint. If I powder coat it the sky is the limit on colors available. The seat will be painted to match the stock XS750 tank colors.

If I powder coat the frame I could go with

Black
Gold
or ????????????

Love to hear your inputs.

Gary
 
That epoxy paint takes a week to fully cure. The advantage is that it's easier to repair. If you have the money I'd go with powdercoat. Less of a headache for you, and a really durable finish when it's all said and done.

And I'm partial to a black frame, especially with all the touches of red.
 
A few pictures of the progress.

Tank mounts using guitar amplifier rubber feet. Use what you got right?

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Studs for the loop...

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The rear loop, still needs to be welded.

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Spent some time removing the center stand brackets. Time consuming...

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I am still not too happy with the angle of the rear loop. Need to work here a bit more.
Need to get it straighter, any suggestions?

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