'79 special voltage regulator swap basic questions

That's was me, I got rid of the battery tray for a smaller battery and pod filters. Here is what I bought. I know it's sacraligious to mess with a complete one but in my defence the frame was rusty and I have not cut into anything. She can be replaced back to stock with a new tank hahah
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4081.JPG
    IMG_4081.JPG
    89.4 KB · Views: 132
She's a rare bird for Aussis shores. The US got those alloy 19"/16" spoke wheels in 79 and they were the only other country to get them as far as i know.

Those alloy rims are very rare. Don't get conned into swapping those with the Standard alloy rims without some money your way
 
IMG_4029.PNG IMG_4092.JPG IMG_4094.JPG So it turns out that have points, see pictures, does that change anything on my purchase of the rectifier?again see pictures.

It's great I have a rare thing, I'm glad I can return her to stock, I didn't have the heart to cut into her.

I found an oil leak from 2 of the covers on the right of picture 2. The bolt just keeps spinning inside and won't come out or go in :(. I think it's threaded inside the engine bay. Is that an easy fix?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4096.JPG
    IMG_4096.JPG
    48.6 KB · Views: 110
All 650s use the same rectifier. What does differ is the type of regulator. Your picture of your alternator indicates it is the early style so the VR-115 regulator or an equivalent is what you need. You need a power switching regulator or what's called a "B" circuit type. An "A" circuit type is a regulator that switches the ground on and off. That type is needed/used on the 1980 and later charging systems.
 
Your advance unit looks bad. The posts that the weights pivot on are rusty and there should be e-clips on the ends to hold the weights on. I can't believe some of these bikes still run, lol.
 
Are talking about the crome'ish covers on either side of the points/advance with the 3 or 4 nuts? Or the bigger phillips head screw ones?
The large covers with 3/4 nuts are you valve tappet covers. Those need to be removed to adjust your valves. Valve adjustments are extremely important and need to be done before you adjust the timing and carbs.
If the bolt is spinning inside then they could be stripped out, but usually you can back the whole stud out.
 
Oh wow, there is so much to learn on these bikes! Thanks for the tips on the regulators, I think I will get the VR-115, the bloke beforehand had it for 9 years, happy days!

So I bought the bike running, fresh off the boat from Japan, I took it for a little spin before hand and everything seemed fine. I am keeping the exhausts the same and the only thing I'm changing performance wise is pod filters. Do I have to adjust the valves and timing if it was already running fine before hand?

The tappet covers are the ones that are leaking, would I just rebore the hole? I feel being the engine, I don't want to get it wrong.
 
The bike may be running OK now but that can change. Valve and timing checks/adjustments are part of the routine maintenance regiment and should be done every 4K miles or so. Cam chain tension should also be checked but even more frequently, like every 1000 to 1500 miles. The advance unit has to be lubed or it can start binding up. Then the timing won't advance and retard as it should, as the RPMs go up and down.
 
Well, that means more reading this fantastic site!

I am thinking of going to my local motorcycle shop and doing some work experience and help around the shop to get more understanding of how it all works. They do custom work for old bikes :).

What do I lube the points up with and what section?
 
Back
Top