Normal braking shouldn't upset the motor, long hard stops often will.
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'80 Special Refit
- Thread starter Solomoriah
- Start date
highboy_coupe
XS650 Addict
I noticed that when mine has only warmed up for 5 minutes, braking up to a junction from 40mph and pulling the clutch in results in an embarrassing stall/kick/sweat/panic/kick situation.....
Why did I want kick only again??
Why did I want kick only again??
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
Fixed the gas leak using the very cost-effective Fel-Pro radiator seal: https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...mostat-gasket/fel-pro-thermostat-gasket/68354
One more thing off the checklist...
One more thing off the checklist...
Gas was leaking from where?
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
Gas cap, as mentioned above. I'm trying the radiator seal; if it works well, great, if not, I'll pony up for the stock seal.
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
Egad.
So I just set out to change the oil. When I got the bike a month ago, the PO told me it had been changed recently, and the oil does indeed look, well, not fresh but recent. But, considering the many sins of the PO I've already uncovered, it seemed smart to go ahead and change it now.
I cannot budge the oil plugs, either of them. I didn't realize just exactly how BIG they were until I tried to find a socket to fit... nothing in my metric selection is nearly that big. I do have a high-quality crescent wrench (yes, there is such a thing) that I carry on my TW to deal with the rear axle, and I tried that, but I can't move them.
Naturally, I don't want to apply too much force until I have a hex socket of the correct size, as I could easily chew them up trying. But the manual doesn't seem to say what size they are. So my question to you all is... what size are they? What socket do I need to go out and buy so I can get those suckers loose?
So I just set out to change the oil. When I got the bike a month ago, the PO told me it had been changed recently, and the oil does indeed look, well, not fresh but recent. But, considering the many sins of the PO I've already uncovered, it seemed smart to go ahead and change it now.
I cannot budge the oil plugs, either of them. I didn't realize just exactly how BIG they were until I tried to find a socket to fit... nothing in my metric selection is nearly that big. I do have a high-quality crescent wrench (yes, there is such a thing) that I carry on my TW to deal with the rear axle, and I tried that, but I can't move them.
Naturally, I don't want to apply too much force until I have a hex socket of the correct size, as I could easily chew them up trying. But the manual doesn't seem to say what size they are. So my question to you all is... what size are they? What socket do I need to go out and buy so I can get those suckers loose?
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
OKAY, never mind, searched the forum, and apparently they're 27mm.
Now I just have to go get one.
Now I just have to go get one.
A 1-1/16" socket is a perfect fit.
And yeah.... sometimes it takes a BIG cheater bar.....
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
The heads are a bit rough (damage done before me) but not so bad that I expect that to be a problem.
I have a 1 1/16 wrench, which I just tried, but it won't budge them either, and again I don't want to apply too much force that way. So I guess I wait until I can buy one.
Patience isn't my strong suit.
I have a 1 1/16 wrench, which I just tried, but it won't budge them either, and again I don't want to apply too much force that way. So I guess I wait until I can buy one.
Patience isn't my strong suit.
6 point preferred...
Wise move, stopping before further damage with a crescent, even a good one. I like the block up under the socket, so it held firmly in place then give the 1/2" breaker bar a shot with a maul. Two people really is handy the first time you remove them. 'course you can remove the front one after you drop the sump plate, which you gotta do anyways.
Wise move, stopping before further damage with a crescent, even a good one. I like the block up under the socket, so it held firmly in place then give the 1/2" breaker bar a shot with a maul. Two people really is handy the first time you remove them. 'course you can remove the front one after you drop the sump plate, which you gotta do anyways.
....yup, agreed..
Put a good 6-point wrench or socket on the oil sump plug and MAKE SURE that it is going to stay there by blocking up under it with some 2x4s.
Then push on the breaker bar or wrench in the loosening direction to "pre-load" the fastener (oil sump plug) and THEN give the end of the breaker bar or wrench a smart cuff with a mallet or maul.
The trick is to:
Once you have those plugs off - do yourself a massive favour and buy a couple of copper crush washer for each one - and don't EVER tighten them that tight again.
If they do still leak - you've got some sort of problem like crap in the threads or under the head of the sump plug "bolt". They really should not leak, even if they are not reafed-up "squeaking" tight.
Put a good 6-point wrench or socket on the oil sump plug and MAKE SURE that it is going to stay there by blocking up under it with some 2x4s.
Then push on the breaker bar or wrench in the loosening direction to "pre-load" the fastener (oil sump plug) and THEN give the end of the breaker bar or wrench a smart cuff with a mallet or maul.
The trick is to:
- make CERTAIN that the socket or wrench cannot come adrift during this operation, and;
- make sure to pre-load the tool in the loosening direction so that the shock of your mallet blow goes into loosening the oil sump plug - rather than simply bending the wrench.
Once you have those plugs off - do yourself a massive favour and buy a couple of copper crush washer for each one - and don't EVER tighten them that tight again.
If they do still leak - you've got some sort of problem like crap in the threads or under the head of the sump plug "bolt". They really should not leak, even if they are not reafed-up "squeaking" tight.
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Yes, get yourself a 27mm 6 point socket, you will use it lots on this bike. Besides the drain plugs, it also fits the rear axle nut and the lock nut on the cam chain adjuster. 22mm is another size you could use. That's the front axle nut and the acorn cover nut on the cam chain adjuster.
My preferred technique for hard to turn nuts and bolts is to fit a wrench on it and hit it with a dead blow hammer. This adds impact to aid in breaking it loose, often you don’t have to beat on it very hard, it’s the shock that breaks it loose.
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
Never thought of blocking up the socket, good tip! I will be picking up the relevant socket tomorrow, with any luck, and will then get it done tomorrow night.
gggGary... why do I have to drop the sump plate?
gggGary... why do I have to drop the sump plate?
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
... okay, change of plan. The crush washers are $7.50 or more each from Yamaha. Some digging around the forums led me to alternative sources, and eventually to this item:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0759SFV7G
Now the Amazon page doesn't tell you much, but I looked the part number up online and found a better page here:
https://www.hydradynellc.com/produc...duct-type.push-to-connect-fittings/&pagenum=4
Dimensions given sound reasonable, so I've added this add-on item to an order for my business, and I'll have them Monday. Thus, I'll be changing the oil Monday evening, if all works out as planned.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0759SFV7G
Now the Amazon page doesn't tell you much, but I looked the part number up online and found a better page here:
https://www.hydradynellc.com/produc...duct-type.push-to-connect-fittings/&pagenum=4
Dimensions given sound reasonable, so I've added this add-on item to an order for my business, and I'll have them Monday. Thus, I'll be changing the oil Monday evening, if all works out as planned.
To check the sump filter and clean it. You might wanna get a gasket for it just in case...
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
Well, dang.
Of course.... it ain't hard to make a gasket. Most auto parts places sell materiel. A beer carton will do in a pinch 
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
I've never made a gasket, but I suppose it can't be that hard.
That sump filter is bolted to the upper surface of the sump plate. It is very important and in old bikes that haven’t been maintained carefully - it is often damaged which makes it TOTALLY useless as an oil filter.
Id plan on replacing it - BUT - don’t toss the old one. They can often be cleaned and repaired with JB Weld. Check around on the forum for how to do the repairs.
Also - when you pull the sump plate, look around for debris such as plastic bits (often thentiming chain guides) and metallic bits (other engine parts). Some debris is sort of....normal, but a lot is a sign of impending troubles.
Id plan on replacing it - BUT - don’t toss the old one. They can often be cleaned and repaired with JB Weld. Check around on the forum for how to do the repairs.
Also - when you pull the sump plate, look around for debris such as plastic bits (often thentiming chain guides) and metallic bits (other engine parts). Some debris is sort of....normal, but a lot is a sign of impending troubles.
