'81 Tracker Build Electrical Issue PLEASE HELP

spacetiger110

Fashionably sensitive, but too cool to care.
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I bought this tracker last year already built. I don't know how much of the wiring is stock. The turn signals have been removed, headlight changed to a larger one, and the tail light and license plate light are not stock. I am completely brain dead when it comes to electrical work. I just can never get it.
I started my bike and went inside to grab my helmet and gloves while it warmed up, and when I came back out I saw a bunch of smoke and found some melted wires, and the bullet connector for two wires was very hot and the plastic cover over it was completely melted.
I need help identifying the components these wires are going to. Photos are attached. Replacing/repairing the wires is something I can do with minimal issue, but if anyone has any idea of a possible cause, I'm all ears.
Thanks in advance.
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I bought this tracker last year already built. I don't know how much of the wiring is stock. The turn signals have been removed, headlight changed to a larger one, and the tail light and license plate light are not stock. I am completely brain dead when it comes to electrical work. I just can never get it.
I started my bike and went inside to grab my helmet and gloves while it warmed up, and when I came back out I saw a bunch of smoke and found some melted wires, and the bullet connector for two wires was very hot and the plastic cover over it was completely melted.
I need help identifying the components these wires are going to. Photos are attached. Replacing/repairing the wires is something I can do with minimal issue, but if anyone has any idea of a possible cause, I'm all ears.
Thanks in advance.
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Show us your fuse box?
 
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I know, I know. Blade upgrade is scheduled for June with the alternator rewind (you'll be hearing from me) and the turn signal reinstall, after I close on this house I'm buying and can spend money again.
 
View attachment 190195
I know, I know. Blade upgrade is scheduled for June with the alternator rewind (you'll be hearing from me) and the turn signal reinstall, after I close on this house I'm buying and can spend money again.
So.... that looks to be a MikesXS replacement fuse box. Wouldn't be my first choice, but by all accounts it's a fairly good unit. Now I'm left scratching my head as to why wires would fry when they're properly fused.... :umm:
How well do you know your way around a mulit-meter?
 
So.... that looks to be a MikesXS replacement fuse box. Wouldn't be my first choice, but by all accounts it's a fairly good unit. Now I'm left scratching my head as to why wires would fry when they're properly fused.... :umm:
How well do you know your way around a mulit-meter?
Minimally. I can check voltage and resistance, but that's about it.
 
Minimally. I can check voltage and resistance, but that's about it.
Could it be from vibration? I have no garage or carport, it sat under a cover all winter. Could that type of exposure to the elements have done it?
Again, I know almost nothing about electrical. What are those gold blocks the connector wires are going to? The black box the bullet connected wires go to connects to the hot battery terminal, right? Not home right now but I was going to double check that in about ten minutes when I get home.
 
Could it be from vibration? I have no garage or carport, it sat under a cover all winter. Could that type of exposure to the elements have done it?
Again, I know almost nothing about electrical. What are those gold blocks the connector wires are going to? The black box the bullet connected wires go to connects to the hot battery terminal, right? Not home right now but I was going to double check that in about ten minutes when I get home.
Well, the red wire (red circle) looks to be the main feed to the fuse box. It's not fused so it's possible for it to short and burn. The other wire (green circle) is fused... or at least it should be.
The bottom line is any wire (other than the main feed) that shorts out should blow a fuse before it melts. It's a mystery.
More info needed. Did any fuses blow? Year? Mods? tell us all you can.... lots of pics.


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Well, the red wire (red circle) looks to be the main feed to the fuse box. It's not fused so it's possible for it to short and burn. The other wire (green circle) is fused... or at least it should be.
The bottom line is any wire (other than the main feed) that shorts out should blow a fuse before it melts. It's a mystery.
More info needed. Did any fuses blow? Year? Mods? tell us all you can.... lots of pics.


View attachment 190196
It's an '81. I didn't do the build, but here are the mods I know of: Turn signals removed, I believe an aftermarket flasher that isn't powering anything (photo attached), frame cut, tracker tail with aftermarket tail/brake/plate lights, at some point the trans must-have been apart because the covers are powder coated, battery tender hookup (none of the wires are exposed and the terminals aren't touching anything other than the battery terminals, aftermarket glass tube fuse box, aftermarket headlight, aftermarket exhaust, bar end mirrors, 19" rear drum, Mikes XS pleated pods.
I think I can solve the mystery of the fuses not blowing. The fuse that's labeled "main" is 20A, the ones labeled "headlight" and "signal" are 10A, the one labeled "ignition" is a whopping THIRTY FREAKING AMPS! I did not install that fuse or the box, so I'm not sure if the labeling is correct, but it should be a 20A main and then three tens, right? I haven't blown a fuse since I've owned it, so I don't know why a 30 would be anywhere near this bike. I can only assume they put a bigger fuse in instead of fixing whatever was blowing it. Guy I bought it off of bought it from the builder (who looks to have done the mods with care) and couldn't even tell me when the last time the valves were checked was, so I assume he was the one who thought putting that fuse in was a good idea.
 
C64E2CDF-650B-49EB-BB0A-B33C785CED14.jpeg C0742DAB-4650-49AF-B29B-A53BE0441308.jpeg Exploratory surgery has revealed more exposed wires. Looks like the harness was rubbing in a couple of spots. I assume it was grounding out on something and the monster fuse allowed it? Then the wires just got hot and started cooking?
 
The fuse that's labeled "main" is 20A, the ones labeled "headlight" and "signal" are 10A, the one labeled "ignition" is a whopping THIRTY FREAKING AMPS!
Well, all power goes through the main first, so that should have blown before the 30. Fix the exposed wire you just found, fix those that burned, put a 10a in place of the 30 and see what happens. It's a good bet those exposed wires are the problem. That begs the question that if the PO was sloppy enough to route the harness so it rubbed, where else did he do that? Best look the whole harness over real good and re-route anything that rubs.
 
Well, all power goes through the main first, so that should have blown before the 30.
The labels are all upside down. I'm wondering if the 30A one is actually the main rather than the ignition.
That begs the question that if the PO was sloppy enough to route the harness so it rubbed, where else did he do that?
What kills me is, when I asked if there were any carb issues when I was talking to him before I went to see it, he said "No. Unlike some riders, I take care of my things because I can afford to." Then when I was checking it out in person he said he hadn't checked the valves once in the two years he owned it. I didn't say anything, but I did think about him saying that. Now I find this 30A fuse and improperly routed wires. Takes care of things my foot.
Thanks for all your help. Hopefully the next post I make in this thread will be the success story.
 
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