82 XS650 Starts then dies

OK so I have bought a new battery and the bike does the same BS with the new battery.
A.) Coil resistance between red/white and orange wires was 2.5ohms which was between the 2.25 and 2.75 so that checks out.
B.) Skipped for now because #24 says ignition will test soon if nothing gets better
C.) Coil High Voltage Leads or "Secondary Winding Resistance" (As the manual says) Should be between 10,500 and 15,500 ohms. Well mine is closer to 28,000 ohms... so according to the book replace the Ignition Coil
D.) Checked the Pickup Coil resistances and between the orange and black (remember I have an 82 so everything is different) I measure withing the recommended 630-770 but between the grey and black reads infinite on the ohm meter no matter what setting I set it to.

So it looks like I need a new ignition coil and pick up coil. Thoughts anyone?
 
Hi Cal: I wonder if it's the something even more basic like your kill switch (on the RH handlebar) has a short or an intermittent contact. ....or possible the key switch.... and the contact is tripped by the vibration of the engine starting.

Pete
 
Well I cleaned out the kill switch as someone else advised. I did not clean the key switch at all but I will try that as well. But either way the two components I just tested are not at the proper value so I think I will see if the local Yamaha store has them in stock before they close today and then I will definitely clean out the key switch.
 
Yup. Sorry, I hadn't read your last post carefully enough. It sure looks like you're searching for an ignition coil and a pickup coil.

You'll get there my friend - and this bike will roar and rumble again!
 
So... I show up at the Yamaha store today armed with the knowledge that I have of what I have tested and the guys shits on my hopes and dreams. First off the repair manual I have by clymer I guess is a joke and he points out incorrect information. So he shows me that with the ignition coil you have to take the end caps off because they have their own resistance. Then points out the books diagram is wrong. So.... Ignition coil is working properly. The pick up coil on the other hand is still not functioning properly so since my book is giving me incorrect information he asks that I take it off the bike and bring it in for him to test... So back to the drawing board.
 
He showed me how to test the ignition coil and my numbers are now within range of the repair manual. I will try to get the pickup coil to him this week for him. And yes he mentioned that they are no longer made but he also said he can order a pickup coil aftermarket.
 
Pete, that's what I keep telling myself

Good - just keep telling yourself that and by the time the decent weather arrives, you'll be riding that puppy!

The point is that there are a finite number of things that can be wrong with a given piece of equipment at any given time and once you have addressed that finite number of faults - you WILL have a functional piece of equipment.

Pete
 
You can also test the secondary with the caps on. They are, if stock, 5K caps. Add 10K to the number (two 5K caps). If it goes above 20K on the meter scale, switch it to the 200K scale. Meaning, if you get a reading of 15K (caps off), plus the 10K (for the caps) equals 25K, this would be too high for the 20K scale, so switch to the 200K scale. If it's going weird with the caps on, then you may just need new caps. It's good to test both to check the caps as well.
 
"Illegitimae non carborundum" .. ??? Max Pete! I am truly impressed!!! However, in the light of the trouble this motorcycle has caused her unfortunate owner I would think the average Centurion's response would be closer to "Pedicabo quod bastardus".
Good luck anyway Cal.
 
Some of the pick up coils are riveted and some have screws.
It's possible to move the pickup coil a bit in its mounting. If you're going to take that coil to somebody to test then I'd suggest that you take that entire part of the alternator, pickup mounted, and have it tested. IF the coil tests bad and you have to replace it then etch around the bad one to mark where the new one will sit, minimizing any advancing or retarding from factory setting.........or don't.......but its what this simpleton would do.....maybe a couple MM's don't make a difference......
 
UPDATE: IT IS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
First off thank you everyone for everything. What it came down to be was a split wire from the pickup coil. Problem was that the cable was wrapped in a plastic sleeve and was hard to detect. My test yesterday of the ignition system found the problem. It is running a little rough for its first run in 9 years but now that it runs I have a great place to go from. Thank you again everyone.

Check it out here!!! <<---- Click my video!!!!
 
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