inlet manifolds with ethonol

jay760

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Just had one of my inlet rubbers split,after only a few years use,I went to buy some from mikesxs,only to find a big warning about using them with fuel with ethonol in it, There is a fair bit of weight on them as I run dellortos,so I am now at a loss as what to do,any suggestions
 
You could also get (or make) some metal intake manifolds that use those thick rubber hoses to hold the carbs. Seems like it would be cheaper to replace those than both whole carb holders every time.

TC Bros has some nice ones http://www.tcbroschoppers.com/id37.html

They'll move your carbs back though so you'd need to take that into consideration
 
I've looked into them already ,unfortunately they are to small hoos racing does bigger ones but they are out of stock
 
There is now a source for carb manifolds that are not adversely affected by ethanol, try http://www.jbmindustries.com. My new Mike's lasted less than three weeks(137 miles), the brass vacuum tube fell out during installation, the first part from him I was not satisfied with.

Waldo
 
Ethanol seems to be here to stay, one of the problems with it is that is hydroscopic so it promotes corrosion. Some clever chemists have given this some thought and this is what they have. http://www.b3cfuelsolutions.com/html/mib.html
No more dissolved choke o rings! You can get this stuff, "Mechanic in a Bottle" at home depote and other places listed on their site
 
Startron is the cats meow. Find it at Walmart for 8-9 bucks and it treats 128 gallons. Been using it in everything for the past 1.5 years with no problems and you can't overtreat the fuel (put in too much and you only waste your money, no harm to engine). It stabalizes fuel, cleans fuel, preserves rubber parts and does away with all the negatives of ethanol. You have to go to the sporting section of the store as it is in with the boating supplies. Oh yea, I get 2 MPG more in my SUV using this stuff.
 
Looking for a solution to replace the stock style carb holders on my '81 with '78 BS 38's. My "new" holders are 2-3 months old and one cracked all the way in 1/2. Buying another set of these doesn't seem to be the right direction for me with a hardtail and pod filters. I saw the billet ones TC Bros is offering for $75 but they claim their not for my carbs. Wondering if anyone has come up with an ingenious way to fab up something better. Thanks Guys.
 
If you shop Ebay look for Tour Max. Those hold up against ethanol.
There are many gas stations that sell enthanol free gas. Find one close by and use it.
Leo
 
Thanx Leo, I made a note of Tour Max. I still feel reluctant to continue with a bad design and do so by purchasing MORE expensive rubber holders. I may end up there but Im working on a an easy repair/support angle first. Ever heard of a Non-cuppled connector? I think that's what its called. Here's a few pics. My recently purchased and broken in two holder, and a few pics of the $3 plumbing part from Home Depot I bought this morning, and one of my bike. (because I wouldn't want to pass up an opportunity to display my mean machine!) Im not entering any dialogue about my intentions- any XS-er seeing this gadget would recognize its potential use and I haven't decided exactly how this attempted repair will be done yet. I'll take some pics tho and toss it in here afterward and show the results.
 

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Thanx Leo, I made a note of Tour Max. I still feel reluctant to continue with a bad design and do so by purchasing MORE expensive rubber holders. I may end up there but Im working on a an easy repair/support angle first. Ever heard of a Non-cuppled connector? I think that's what its called. Here's a few pics. My recently purchased and broken in two holder, and a few pics of the $3 plumbing part from Home Depot I bought this morning, and one of my bike. (because I wouldn't want to pass up an opportunity to display my mean machine!) Im not entering any dialogue about my intentions- any XS-er seeing this gadget would recognize its potential use and I haven't decided exactly how this attempted repair will be done yet. I'll take some pics tho and toss it in here afterward and show the results.

Leo, can you give me a little info on how and what it takes to go LED on your turns? I've got LED brake/tail, works great. But my turns are a constant hassle! Blowin bulbs, flasher unit repairs, etc. Getting tired of the hassles and yesterday on the frwy I signaled a right lane change and just as I was initiating it I gave that quick over-the-shoulder check and saw a startled Highway Patrol on a bike goin must faster than me and passing. I was able to cancel the lane change and keep my lane without him needing to freak out. He did let up and then continue by with a big frown. When I got home and checked, my rear right bulb was burnt. Not cool.
 
Oh!

Thought the "these work" meant you had another site for the manifolds.

5Twins reports elsewhere that the JB manifolds crack as well do to the weight of the cv carbs.

Need a design for a support at the rear that would cup the intake throats like an up lift bra, like that description, and attach to the motor mount with a brace. Just a thought.

VM's I have are lighter so eliminate the issue, but if I ever re-install the BS38 I'd do the support thingy.
 
I just swapped the stock bulbs to LED's and swapped the flasher to one that can handle the LED's. The stock flasher won't flash LED's. I got my LED's and Flasher from www.superbrightleds.com
Use what ever bulb you like. The tower bulb with the most LED's will be the brightest.
The LF1-S-pin is the flasher I used. I was rebuilding my harness so the pin was ok. On a stock harness get the -flat. Take the wires out of the plastic. The two blades on the wires plug right into the stock flasher socket. Plug the red or grey wire into where the brown wire is in the socket, the black into the brown/white. Ignore any other wires.
If your bike has the self canceling unit it disables the self canceler.
If your bike has just one indicater light you need to add diodes between the left and right sides to the one lead of the indicater and ground the other lead. If your bike has two indicaters it will be ok the way it is.
Somewhere on here is a diagram of how to wire the diodes to the indicater bulb.
Leo
 
As I've posted before, Tour Max is the label used by K&L Supply for ARS boots--the original equipment. OEM boots have held up to decades of 10% ethanol here in Illinois. Use them with the original steel shrouds or they'll split at the spigot stops just like anything else. The boots can be ordered from 650 Central or any dealer that does business with K&L (not hard to find, as K&L is the biggest aftermarket supplier in the bike biz).
 
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