Additives in Fuel to help keep carbs clean?

Orion61

Orion61

XS650 Addict
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I have recently boiled out my carbs with Pinesol then Gummout spray cleaner followed by compressed air.
I have the bike running again, and after thinking how bad they were is amazing in itself from sitting in storage with about 1/2 Gal of gas in it that was forgotten about (DOH!) I still have some cold start and idle issues that
are refusing to resolve no matter how well I clean. If you would have seen the lower carbs you would have doubted it would ever run again, they were frozen solid and had a coat of varnish about 1/8th" thick.
Is there an additive for the fuel system that may finish the cleaning job over time?
I use Seafoam in my RV since it doesn't get a ton of miles on it.
On the other hand, is there someone withone, or two bowels for sale that are clean and ready to go?
The Bike actually runs fairly well after getting it running and warmed up, but It will still die with the idle under 1500 RPMs.
I usually need to start it with a shot of Ether, or a bit of cranking. It used to start on the 1st or 2nd kick.
If I hadn't had a bunch of surgeries and replacements on my Right knee I might not mind, but kicking it over 3 or 4 times is too much....
So your thoughts on additives or if someone has bowls seem my best resolution. I sincerely appreciate the past help from you all. It was very nice to hear her run again after 13 years!
Cousin Larry
 
I'm going to put mine up with non-ethanol topped off in my tanks to prevent rust, turn off my petcocks, then removing my bowl drains to empty the bowls completely.

Thats the best preventative I can really think of really, perhaps add some stabilizer to the non-ethanol fuel too, depending on how long they'll be put up.
 
That's how I store mine - full gas tanks and empty, drained carbs. No stabilizer in the tank unless it sits more than just over the winter.

Hard starting when cold usually means your choke feed jets are plugged. The chokes do nothing if that happens. Here's how to check them .....

ChokeJet2.jpg
 
Thanks for the info, as far as the choke feed jets, mine were both pretty much clogged, one more than the other one. I was able to get one of them opened pretty well but the other side is still about 2/3rds clogged. If I spray pressurized cleaner down one side it shoots right out, on the other side it is more like bubbling out.
I spent over 1.5 hours on the one side. It is better than it was at 100% blocked but I'd say it is about 35% open. There are 3 tiny holes in a triangle just above the bottom hole that seem to be the issue. Would it make any difference swapping the bowls? the partly clogged one is on the "non choke side"
I am also having an issue with gas over filling the Right side if not running. I would have thought it would have been the downhill side carb that would leak more.
I have checked the float level on both and they are around 22-24mm (I don't have a good ruler but good enough to get that close).
When starting I get some popping out of one side when slowing down as well. It runs better than it deserves to when warm. 1 kick and it starts.
And as I said, I have issues with a constant low idle, I have to keep it at 1500 rpm to not die or need feathering. The rpm kind of fluctuates a little bit.
I have NOT checked the Point dwell or timing on it. The bike will snap right up with the throttle but seems like it takes a second or so to slowly return to idle. Skull has been helping me with a flasher issue, and he gave me a couple things to check, but I haven't gotten over to the garage yet. I do know the cables are pulling the same, and are not too tight. I have a video vlip of it running if anyone would want to hear, but it is fairly large.
Don't get me wrong I am happy as a Lark about it running as well as it does for being stored so badly, and it was all my fault, I always take better care of my bikes,
but I just plain forgot about it having a quart or two in it. I lost my storage place and had to ride it home with ice on the ground and was freezing by the time I got it home. You know one of those, "I'll get to it tomorrow" things.
I am probably going to have to find another clean bowl somewhere. I have even seriously thought of selling my 2008 C50T Suzuki Boulevard, and putting the money into a restoration of this bike. Well at 12k it doesn't need much. You might think I am crazy, but I just don't enjoy riding the newer bike! It only has 6k on it, is comfortable and smooth, not a thing wrong with it, $3000.00 can go pretty quickly on bike work.
Thanks for the help fellas.. I should feel good about my current limited space or I would have half a dozen of these 650's. It is just that from the moment I sat on my first TX650 in High School, I was hooked even if I could hardly reach the ground with those 6" over forks..
 
I had a bike a few years ago that had carb issues. It would have been a big deal to pull the carbs off and go through them, there just wasn't any time available so I ran the thing on straight lacquer thinner. Cleaned em right up! I can't say it will help your situation but you asked for an additive...
 
Orion61 said:
I have recently boiled out my carbs with Pinesol then Gummout spray cleaner followed by compressed air.
I have the bike running again, and after thinking how bad they were is amazing in itself from sitting in storage with about 1/2 Gal of gas in it that was forgotten about (DOH!) I still have some cold start and idle issues that
are refusing to resolve no matter how well I clean. If you would have seen the lower carbs you would have doubted it would ever run again, they were frozen solid and had a coat of varnish about 1/8th" thick.
Is there an additive for the fuel system that may finish the cleaning job over time?
I use Seafoam in my RV since it doesn't get a ton of miles on it.
On the other hand, is there someone withone, or two bowels for sale that are clean and ready to go?
The Bike actually runs fairly well after getting it running and warmed up, but It will still die with the idle under 1500 RPMs.
I usually need to start it with a shot of Ether, or a bit of cranking. It used to start on the 1st or 2nd kick.
If I hadn't had a bunch of surgeries and replacements on my Right knee I might not mind, but kicking it over 3 or 4 times is too much....
So your thoughts on additives or if someone has bowls seem my best resolution. I sincerely appreciate the past help from you all. It was very nice to hear her run again after 13 years!
Cousin Larry
Click to expand...

I use an additive that does everything that you ask for, I thought it was a dumb ass idea, UNTIL I TRIED IT. TCW3 two stroke oil, about 2-3 ounces to a full tank of gas, it stabilizes fuel, cleans the carbs, removes carbon, lubes the upper cylinder, and then some. I've started chainsaws with treated gas after 5 years with no carb or fuel breakdown. What really amazes me is that the RPMs at idle always raise by 100-200 rpms when the fuel is treated in my 4-stroke bikes. Half of my fuel fills are treated now with TCW3 oil.

Scott
 
A friend told me to run a tank off aviation fuel (not the kerosene) through the bike. I don't know why it works but it does. Av gas doesn't deteriorate like pump gas does either.
 
I exclusively use ethanol-free 91-octane gas in my vintage bikes. For winter storage: fill the tank, add StaBil, and go for a 20-to-30 mile ride to fill the carbs.

For lawn mower & snow blower, I use regular gas & add StaBil to the gas can after getting gas. Its easier to add the correct amount of StaBil to the gas can when you know how much you just bought.
The snow blower is a good test of this approach. Had it for about 10 years, only use it a few times a year & it always starts easily.

I agree that its better to drain the float bowls for winter storage.
 
Lacquer thinner, Aviation fuel, 2 two stroke oil, WOW I wouldn't have imagined those!
I do run several 2 cycle motors, where do I get that brand of oil? (TCW3 two stroke oil)
Or is that the lube rating of the oil?
Thanks all!
Cousin Larry
 
google to the rescue
Oils carrying the designation TC-W3 have been certified by the National Marine Manufacturers Association. TC means two-cycle (two-stroke). W means the oil is appropriate for water-cooled engines such as those found on personal watercraft and outboard boats. The 3 on the label means that it is a third-generation oil.
 
It's an oil rating, not a brand. I think it's the spec for water cooled two strokes. I'm pretty sure Walmart has it. Just read the bottles to confirm it meets that spec.

You only have a choke on your left carb. Use the cleanest bowl there. If your timing is off, the bike won't start as easily as it could. These bikes like their timing set dead nuts. Many around here don't think timing is all that important - if it runs it's good enough. Well, I disagree. Correct timing is VERY important on these.
 
I agree about the timing, I bought a 73tx from a guy in the mid 80's it was a real DOG, after I tuned it up, cleaned the carbs and cleaned and set the Points and timing that thing screamed! The guy I bought it from couldn't believe it!
But I have seen what you say, a number of years ago, I mowed for the last time but ran out of gas with just a small patch to go so I put about a pint of mixed fuel in it.
I bought a new mower the next year and when a buddy needed a mower about 4 years later I gave him my old one. He automatically pulled the carb to clean it and was astounded that the mixed gas was still good!
THANKS FOR THE HELP 5-T
 
I buy the one gallon Super Tech, WalMart brand of TC-W3. I have an 8 oz. bottle of the same oil that I refill from the gallon jug. I carry the small bottle on the bike, it has a measure window on the side. I treat at least every third tankful of gas or sometimes every second tank. I KNOW, SOUNDS STUPID, until you've tried it long term. Last winter I didn't do any winterization stuff except treat the gas with TC-W3. In the spring, most of that gas went into my lawn mower. This newer two stroke oil isn't a plug fouler like the old stuff, wouldn't be surprised if the plugs get some benefits too. Even the steel fuel tanks, petcocks, etc. etc. ?

Scott
 
Last edited:
How much TC-W3 to use? I'm not real critical about measuring this stuff. The GoldWing has about a 5 gallon tank, about two ounces, less than three anyway. My 750 Customs have a smaller tank, 1-1/2 to 2 ounces, not more than two ounces. The slight raise in idle RPM is the first thing you'll notice. MPG must be better too !!!

Scott
 
This adding oil to the fuel has me intrigued, everything I have ever heard about oil in the combustion chambers says it will add carbon fouling.
On the other hand like Diesel fuel oil has more energy per gallon capability. and atomized oil should add to upper cylinder and intake valve lubrication.
I'd love to hear from more people that have used this on a higher mileage motor. I would think electronic ignition would be better with a hotter spark
unless holes burned in pistons would happen. I would also think the mix would burn cooler, and add to the octane level.
C'MONE Mechanics, lets hear your opinions..
 
I use Seafoam in the lawnmower and in the SG . I swear by it, not at it. Keep s the carbs clean.
 
I have used, and still do Seafoam, Especially on engines that go weeks between starts like my Camper.
Another old time additive I swear by is Rislone. When I was a teen I bought a 1960 Chevy Impala for $40.00, it was sitting in the trees, but it smoked like crazy. It used a quart of oil every 30 miles or so. I put a quart of rislone in it when I changed oil and bought 2 more quarts just to have. The first 30 miles it was down it's usual quart so I put another quart in it, I drove about another 20 miles with it smoking BUT the next time I looked it was clear, no smoke at all!
That 283 never used another drop of oil, It must have had a couple stuck rings. That motor found its way into a 68 Chevy pickup that I wrecked, then I replaced a shot 350 in a 74 Chevy pickup. I drove it for 6 more years.. BTW Old cars in the early 70's werent worth much more than scrap, there was no old car market like there was after the Movie American Grafitti.
 

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