Adjusting \valves - Help Needed

SpongeBobbed

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I tried tackling the valve adjustment for the first time this morning and I've run into some issues and I was hoping to get some help.

I've watched the video by wildbill about 10 times and everything looks really straightforward. I have a Hugh's PMA system and was able to find tdc using Carbon's method, but now I'm having issues adjusting the valves.

When I set the intake valve at tdc there is no room at all between the tappet and valve and therefore my clearance is zero. Would the bike run if clearance was zero? The bike is running rough so I think it is a valve issue but I was surprised to see it at zero.

When I go to adjust the valves using the tappet I can't seem to get the rocker to do what I want. When I loosen the nut on the tappet and thread the bolt in, it just pushes the tappet further down on the valve and won't give me any clearance. Doing this takes away any play in the rocker though.

When I loosen the nut and thread the bolt out, pressure comes off the rocker and I am able to get some clearance between the bottom of the tappet and the valve, but then the rocker has a lot of play in it and I can move it up and down very easily. I assume this will cause a lot of rattle when the engine is operating.

Is this completely normal? Or is something going on here? I've included two picture below for reference. One with the valve and tappet touching and there's no rocker play and another where there is clearance but the rocker has a lot of play.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

valves.jpg


valves2.jpg
 
When adjusting valves get the cylinder you want to adjust coming up on compression. It doesn't need to be right at TDC.
This should leave both valves closed, they should have some play, this is what the clearance specs are about. You slip the right size feeler gauge blade between the adjuster screw and the top of valve.
Adjust the screw for a slip of the feeler gauge. Snug enough so you can feel a bit of resistance but not so tight that is hard to slip in. Once set snug the lock, while holding the screw so the adjustment won't change, Recheck the clearance. If it changed try again. Repeat on the other valve.
Now turn the engine 360 degrees to do the other cylinder.
Most of us have found that .003 on the intakes and .006 on the exhaust is about right. Tighter and the valves might not seal, looser and they make excessive noise.
If adjusted right you will feel the rocker arms move a bit.
Leo
 
I see you have the elephant foot adjuster screws. You can run .004" on the intakes if you want and not create any extra noise. I'd stick with the stock .006" on the exhausts.
 
I see you have the elephant foot adjuster screws. You can run .004" on the intakes if you want and not create any extra noise. I'd stick with the stock .006" on the exhausts.

Thanks 5twins. I noticed that the elephant foot screws have a bit of play in them as well. At the bottom where the screw meets the foot it goes up or down a couple millimeters or so, almost like the foot hangs from the screw a bit. Is that normal?
 
Yes, that's normal. In use, that area will fill with oil and it will act sort of like a semi-hydraulic lifter. In use, the "foot" actually clings to the valve stem top due to the oil film between the two parts. The "play" or clearance you're setting will be taking place between the foot and the screw. Since it's full of oil, it deadens the ticking.

It's said you can run much larger clearances with these screws but I don't think you should. Slightly larger, fine, but too large and the screw will be pulling up and possibly out of the foot all the time. This would probably accelerate the wear between these two parts. I experimented with larger clearances when I first installed my screws, up to .008" to .010" on the exhausts, .006" to .008" on the intakes. I saw no performance increase and by about .010", the valves ticked again even with these new screws. I've worked my way back down to .006" Ex. and .004" Int.
 
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