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Advance timing rod

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by happychappy, Mar 19, 2017.

  1. happychappy

    happychappy XS650 Member

    thanks for all the help. I read a couple of threads including the troubleshooting guide.

    Testing the coil:
    Using the lowest scale on the meter, measure the resistance between the primary terminals with the wires removed. 4.4
    2; Using the highest scale on the meter, measure between one of the primary terminals and the center core of the coil. Should be infinite resistance. OPEN
    3; Measure between one of the primary terminals and one of the plug wire terminals. Should be infinite resistance. OPEN
    4; Measure between one of the plug wire terminals and the core of the coil. Should be infinite resistance OPEN
    5; Measure from one plug terminal to the other. Should be 15,000 to 20,000 Ohms.

    Meter set to 200k

    Without the caps 20.9

    With caps 30

    Testing the PAMCO

    Battery 12.36
    Use a voltmeter and check for battery voltage on each of the red/white wires with the key and kill switch are turned on. 12.36
    2, The dual output coil has to have both spark plug wires connected to a spark plug at all times. Yes
    3, To test for spark, connect one of the spark plug wires to a spark plug that is grounded to the engine. Used spark tool no spark

    To test for spark without having to turn the engine over, do this procedure:
    . Remove the PAMCO rotor.
    2. Remove the locating pin in the advance rod.
    3. Reinstall the rotor, but without the pin.
    4. Replace the nut holding the rotor on loosely. This will allow you to spin the rotor to produce a spark without having to turn the engine over.
    5, Connect one of the spark plug wires to a spark plug that is grounded to the engine, but not installed in the engine.
    6, Make sure that the other spark plug wire is connected to a spark plug in the engine.
    7. Turn on the ignition switch and the kill switch.
    8, Spin the rotor while looking at the gap in the spark plug for a spark.
    9, Turn off the kill switch and the ignition switch.

    1) Resistance between primary terminals:4.4
    2) Resistance between primary terminals and core (the exposed metal by the mounting holes):eek:pen
    3) Resistance between primary terminal and plug wire: open
    4) Resistance between plug wire and core: open
    5) Resistance between Plug wire and terminals:
    Meter set to 200k

    Without the caps 20.9

    With caps 30

    PAMCO testing: (everything hooked up, kill switch/key on)

    Battery: 12.36
    Kill switch, both terminals: 12.3

    Red wire, Sensor: 11.51
    Green wire, Sensor: .04/0 this fluctuates when spinning the rotor.
    Black wire, sensor: 0

    Red wire, Coil: 12.3
    Green Wire, Coil: 12.32
    Black wire, Coil:0

    referenced these two treads.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 24, 2017
  2. happychappy

    happychappy XS650 Member

    Pamcopete when you say "Install a separate fully charged battery to power the PAMCO regardless of whether or not you have a battery or capacitor with the PMA setup" do you mean I shouldn't have the regulator/rectifier connected to the battery? If so how will the pamco battery get charged? Sorry for the questions I'm just not understanding.
  3. happychappy

    happychappy XS650 Member

    In was able to use the stock coil and the new caps to get a reading of 2.6 oahms from primary to primary and 17000 From plug terminal to plug terminal. I charged the battery to 12.9 volts which raised all the voltage readings except the green sensor lead from the pamco. That one stayed at .04 and 0 ad I turned the rotor. Not sure what else to check. I think I read that the signal voltage from the pamco should be about 5 volts. If that's right I am reading way under that.
  4. happychappy

    happychappy XS650 Member

    Well the saga continues. I pulled the pamco off the housing and looked at the back of the board and found the ground had been blown. I repaired it and tried the test again and still got the same result when rotating the pamco rotor .04/0. Maybe the hall effect sensor is fried too?

    Attached Files:

  5. pamcopete

    pamcopete Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple

    This issue has been resolved.
  6. Jsmoot

    Jsmoot XS650 Member

    Hi Pete, My advance timing rod snapped at the nut end as well (attempted to send you a private message but not sure if it went through). Pic attached. Is there a way to order a replacement?

    Attached Files:

  7. gggGary

    gggGary I'm listening, change my mind XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Pete is out of the business for well over a year now. Though I see he is still 'round. ;)
    Mikes rods have a poor track record but AFAIK Mikes or finding used, the only game in town.
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2021
    Paul Sutton, Jsmoot and Greyandridin like this.
  8. Raymond

    Raymond XS650 rider & fettler XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Fink I have a very good condition, hardly used advance rod in the garage. Was in the low-mileage engine I bought but not using it because running Boyer-Bransden. Not much use telling you as we're the wrong side of the Atlantic but it should mean that there are a few around with other people who have fitted BB?
  9. Jsmoot

    Jsmoot XS650 Member

    Thanks gents, ebay rod ordered. Hoping the rest of the unit works after the put-together.
    If not, is the MikesXS Gen II replacement any better?
    Paul Sutton and Raymond like this.
  10. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

    It's so new, there have really been no reports on it yet.

    As you've discovered, you must be "gentle" with the nuts on the ends of the advance rod. They don't need (nor will they take) much torque. I'd stay @ about 5 to 6 ft/lbs at most.
    gggGary, Paul Sutton and Raymond like this.
  11. Paul Sutton

    Paul Sutton Still Looking Good Top Contributor

    Just curious, why was the threaded section drilled?

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