All Balls Tapered head bearings kit

[Leslie]

My All Balls tapered head bearings came today.

There are x 2 in the kit: 99-3505 and 99-3506.

Can anyone tell me the top and the bottom bearing.

Leslie the Luddite

 

[ippytattoo]

If you look at the roller bearings they will have different inner diameters. The larger one is the lower

 

[Leslie]

If you look at the roller bearings they will have different inner diameters. The larger one is the lower

Cheers Ippytattoo.

Leslie

 

[grepper]

There should be markings on the bearings
Upper: 25 x 48 x 15.2
Lower: 30 x 48 x 15

See http://www.clubchopper.com/forums/metric-chopper-talk/77043-jap-bikes-fork-tube-sizes-neck-bearings-axle-diameters.html
For other bikes

 

[cros36]

and as a preemptive answer. the top sticks out about 1/8 inch. supposedly its normal.

 

[retiredgentleman]

Have a look at this link................pictures show the whole story!

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v463/GoranXS650/XS650 Tinnis Project/Steering Bearings/

I just completed changing over to these bearings. I put the lower outer race in the freezer overnight to shrink it some and used a propane torch to heat up the headstock. I'm not sure that the freeze/heating is necessary but its simple to do and ensures that they fit together easily. Use the old races (both) to drive in the lower outer race.

Similarly, I put the triple tree in the freezer and used a pipe to drive the lower bearing fully down into position. You only want the pipe to contact the inner solid part of the bearing i.e. not on the rollers.

Again freezer for the upper outer race, propane for headstock, and then a block of wood to drive in the upper race.

Then just put it all together.

Michael Morse gave me a good tip. The new bearings are narrow and when installed the races do not protrude to allow for future removal, i.e. there is no place to use a punch to drive out the races. As recommended, I filed a couple of grooves at each end so that future removal is possible............see pic.

 

[gggGary]

Michael Morse gave me a good tip. The new bearings are narrow and when installed the races do not protrude to allow for future removal, i.e. there is no place to use a punch to drive out the races. As recommended, I filed a couple of grooves at each end so that future removal is possible............see pic.

How come the Ebay seller I bought from never said that?

He's 100% right, file reliefs so you have a place to tap them out. Guess how I figured out THAT was a smart idea???

 

[retiredgentleman]

Well, I guess the ebay guy forgot to mention it

Yeah, I like dealing with Michael at 650central................he's the real deal! I like the way he does not use on-line ordering, contrary to what everyone else is using. A true individual in a sea of sameness. A great guy to chat with and you can learn alot from his personal way of doing business.

 

[Saggs]

I installed these tapered bearings in my 73 and have found that the headlight "ears" now have about 1/16- 1/8" of vertical slop now. I have all the original chrome spacers and rubber bushings in place but it looks like the new bearings dont allow the upper triple clamp to seat fully? Others had this problem, if so how was it cured? I was thinking about an o-ring or correct diameter washer for the fork size to take up the slop.

 

[retiredgentleman]

I installed these tapered bearings in my 73 and have found that the headlight "ears" now have about 1/16- 1/8" of vertical slop now. I have all the original chrome spacers and rubber bushings in place but it looks like the new bearings dont allow the upper triple clamp to seat fully? Others had this problem, if so how was it cured? I was thinking about an o-ring or correct diameter washer for the fork size to take up the slop.

You must have made an error in re-installing the various parts. The new bearings cannot cause slop in the "ears". I recently did the same job on my bike and everything went back together just fine.

Are you sure you removed all of the old bearing races?

 

[Saggs]

I'll double check, pretty sure I got everything out the first time? I'll let you know how i made out. Thx

 

[XSLeo]

cros36, the part that they talk about sticking up is the upper bearing race. To properly support the bearing it has to stick up out of the frame about 1/8 inch. If properly installed this has no effect on the way the trees fit.
The upper tree has to stick up a bit above the stem or it wouldn't lock the tree to the stem when you tighten the top bolt that threads into the top of the stem.
Leo

 

[Capt_Zoom]

Where are you doing the filing? In the steering head of the frame? How far up are you filing? Could you just use a puller or a dremel to get them out if you really had to?

 

[retiredgentleman]

Where are you doing the filing? In the steering head of the frame? How far up are you filing? Could you just use a puller or a dremel to get them out if you really had to?

Yes, the filing is done in the bottom part of the steering head on the frame. Once the lower outer bearing race is driven into the steering head, there's no way to remove it. There's nothing for a puller to grab onto...................and I doubt that a dremel could do much either. Michael Morse said one customer, had to weld a metal piece onto the bearing race in order to remove it.

 

[XSLeo]

Why would you need to remove it?
Leo

 

[Capt_Zoom]

That's what I was kind of thinking. isn't it highly unlikely that the outer race would be damaged? I can see the inner or the bearings but not the outer.

 

[retiredgentleman]

Why would you need to remove it?
Leo

Leo;

I'd say the need to remove the race is very small indeed. However, never say never. MMM suggested it was a wise thing to do................he already had a customer ask him how to remove it.

Bearings do wear out, so maybe in another 25 years or so, there will be a need to remove the race.

Since people are lazy, I strongly suspect that even if guys realized there was no way to remove the race, they would not cut grooves.

 

[Junkyard Johnny]

I just got my set of these today, and I'm going with the dna springer. I went with what everyone seems to do and got 1" trailer bearings for the inners. One race matches up with the all balls kit and the other seems to have a different taper. Anyone have any experience with that, or have a solution? I cant seem to find anything.

 

[racerdave]

If it is near impossible to remove the new replacement races, unless you file the punch slots in the neck, how do the oem neck bearings get taken out?

 

[gggGary]

The ball bearing races have a smaller ID so they have a shelf to beat on to remove them. The tapered races are the same ID as the ID of the neck tube so no shelf to beat on. I had to get a lower tapered race out when plans changed and I needed it on a different bike. I got it out, but it wasn't easy.