No, no, no not THAT Dent! He's a keeper...
These dents: points cover had seen some action.
Fender had a big one front and center. And at the back (not shown) where it had mashed into a crash bar a few times.
Going
Start with the rubber hammer, work from the backside, outside of the dent in, work slowly and methodically, light blows, a little at a time, round and round the edge gradually reducing the size of the caved in area. Just worked sitting on a bucket, fender upside down on my calves. work from the back flip and check often. helps to have the back really clean so you can see the dents/waves from that side too. Then switch to the rounded hardwood drift/ hit it with small hammer, again light blows. You want to avoid going too far, having to work it back, that stretches the metal (more). for deep pointed holes and ridges a 1/2" by 1/2" slightly rounded corners aluminum drift/ small hammer.
Fender came out better n I hoped for.
Take an old part dent it, work it back out for practice before tackling a "gotta look good" part.
It's a lot easier when you have good access to the back side....
Worked the points cover on a rubber block and for final small adjustments just a few folds of paper towel on a wood block as a backing.
that cover came out "better", it's heavier metal, complex shape, had creases, scrapes, cave ins at feature lines.
These dents: points cover had seen some action.
Fender had a big one front and center. And at the back (not shown) where it had mashed into a crash bar a few times.
Going
Start with the rubber hammer, work from the backside, outside of the dent in, work slowly and methodically, light blows, a little at a time, round and round the edge gradually reducing the size of the caved in area. Just worked sitting on a bucket, fender upside down on my calves. work from the back flip and check often. helps to have the back really clean so you can see the dents/waves from that side too. Then switch to the rounded hardwood drift/ hit it with small hammer, again light blows. You want to avoid going too far, having to work it back, that stretches the metal (more). for deep pointed holes and ridges a 1/2" by 1/2" slightly rounded corners aluminum drift/ small hammer.
Fender came out better n I hoped for.
Take an old part dent it, work it back out for practice before tackling a "gotta look good" part.
It's a lot easier when you have good access to the back side....
Worked the points cover on a rubber block and for final small adjustments just a few folds of paper towel on a wood block as a backing.
that cover came out "better", it's heavier metal, complex shape, had creases, scrapes, cave ins at feature lines.
.
