I have just finished restoring an ’83 Heritage Special which had not been ridden since late ’05 and only has 6800 original miles. When I started the project I changed the oil and did not notice any shavings, but that oil was very dirty and I might just have not noticed any. After getting it running and riding only a about two miles on a test run I changed oil again and found what I thought was a significant number of aluminum shavings in the drained oil. Even before coming to this forum, I suspected a problem with the cam chain guide or tensioner, as I had a similar problem with another bike many years ago. I tore the bike down only to find a tensioner and guide which looked brand new, as might be expected from a bike with just 6800 miles. The only other spinning aluminum part I can think of is the clutch, but that also looks good… Any other suggestions as to what I might look at or be causing this?
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It's possible what you found is just normal debris from the initial engine break-in. It may not have come out on the first oil change if it was done cold. It sometimes takes several oil changes to thoroughly flush one of these motors out when you first get one. Mine was higher miles, about 20K, and it took near a half dozen changes before my filters started coming out relatively clean.
The oil filtering system on these is rather crude so one of the best things you can do is change your oil frequently, like every 1000 to 1500 miles. Since I'm dumping it so often, I don't use fancy expensive oil, just the Walmart brand 20-50. It comes in 5 quart jugs, which gives me 2 oil changes, and I buy a quart on the side for any needed top ups. My bike has been "living" on this stuff for nearly 12 years now with no apparent oil related problems.
The oil filtering system on these is rather crude so one of the best things you can do is change your oil frequently, like every 1000 to 1500 miles. Since I'm dumping it so often, I don't use fancy expensive oil, just the Walmart brand 20-50. It comes in 5 quart jugs, which gives me 2 oil changes, and I buy a quart on the side for any needed top ups. My bike has been "living" on this stuff for nearly 12 years now with no apparent oil related problems.
Thanks 5twins, I had considered that. It's possible the previous owner had only changed oil a few time.. or maybe never ... 
I guess after my new gasket set gets here I will put it all back together and change oil often and watch it..
Thanks again, I could not think of anywhere else those shavings could come from... for that matter, I can't see anywhere where they did come from.
I guess after my new gasket set gets here I will put it all back together and change oil often and watch it..
Thanks again, I could not think of anywhere else those shavings could come from... for that matter, I can't see anywhere where they did come from.
Normally not a late model issue but check the cases either side of the flywheels looking for rub marks. spin the crank are the ends true? Look at inside of RH clutch cover, also rub marks, from clutch. Often as not I think parked low miles bikes have a back story. Usually involves the owner suddenly realizing motorcycle riding can kill you.
Thanks for the reply gggGary. No rub marks on the RS clutch cover.. that's the next place I looked after seeing the cam system was all very new looking. I also removed the bottom filter cover to be able to see the bottom side of the flywheels... all good..no rubs.
It sounds a bit far fetched, but it sort of looks like the factory mills all of these aluminum parts and then just puts it all together without washing away all of the milling debris..
It sounds a bit far fetched, but it sort of looks like the factory mills all of these aluminum parts and then just puts it all together without washing away all of the milling debris..
Like I said, a very crude old motor, lol. But you can coax quite a long life out of one if you heap enough T.L.C. on it. Yes, it will require more frequent attention and maintenance than a newer machine, but it can be very dependable.
If the cam chain adjuster rod goes WAY in before it's "in adjustment", suspect the front camchain guide rubber has fallen off or been completely worn away.
The remains will be found when you remove the sump cover to examine the sump filter. Lets camchain rub on aluminum.
Some 75's have had "crankshaft plugs" come loose and scrape on the crankcase, that'll make piles of shavings.
Running a motor with oil badly diluted with gas can create lots of issues....
The remains will be found when you remove the sump cover to examine the sump filter. Lets camchain rub on aluminum.
Some 75's have had "crankshaft plugs" come loose and scrape on the crankcase, that'll make piles of shavings.
Running a motor with oil badly diluted with gas can create lots of issues....
Re: crankcase full of gas.....
I'll add that this is where the old school "on, off, reserve" petcocks have it over the vacuum activated ones, turn them off and they're off. Not sure what came with the '75's, the '77's had the old school style.......'78's had the vacuum activated on both the Standard and the Specials.
old on off petcocks have a 4 hole rubber valve also and it's as subject to leaks as the later units.
The good news is they are not near as bad as some of the Kawi petcocks of that era.
One place aluminum bits in the oil can come from is the clutch basket. The clutch has steel and fiber plates. The fibers are a piece of metal, not sure right off what metal, don't think it's steel, anyway as you work the clutch these metal tabs on the fibers rubs on the slots in the basket. As the plates move they wear the basket and the plates where they contact each other. This might not be much but it's wear that collects in the oil.
In my clutch work I did on my 75 I noticed how the plates were made. They were stamped out. This stamping process left one edge a bit rounded, the other a bur that is sharp. I used sand paper to round over these sharp edges so they matched the rounds side. On the steel plates a also sanded the contact surfaces where they touched the fibers. This cleaned off any discolored places and left a slightly roughened surface.
I also replaced the stock 40 to 50 lb. clutch springs with 50 lb. aftermarket springs and Forodo fiber plates. This eliminated the slippage my clutch had. Even with the heavier springs, a properly adjusted and lubed clutch cable it was still easy to pull the lever. A two finger pull. Well that was a few years back so it may pull a bit hard now. My hands aren't as strong as they were.
In my clutch work I did on my 75 I noticed how the plates were made. They were stamped out. This stamping process left one edge a bit rounded, the other a bur that is sharp. I used sand paper to round over these sharp edges so they matched the rounds side. On the steel plates a also sanded the contact surfaces where they touched the fibers. This cleaned off any discolored places and left a slightly roughened surface.
I also replaced the stock 40 to 50 lb. clutch springs with 50 lb. aftermarket springs and Forodo fiber plates. This eliminated the slippage my clutch had. Even with the heavier springs, a properly adjusted and lubed clutch cable it was still easy to pull the lever. A two finger pull. Well that was a few years back so it may pull a bit hard now. My hands aren't as strong as they were.
