Okay, snuck away from my other work for a minute and took another look at those sprockets before I decide. Thank you
@650Skull for those pics. Judging from what I saw, the sprockets certainly aren't "bad" as they're not in fishhook territory, but the drive side has some wear and the lip is just distinguishable. The lip on front sprocket teeth looks more defined than the rear to me. I took a bunch of pics (see thumbnails)--sorry if I missed getting both sides on some, in a hurry at the moment. So in short, I feel a bit like I'm in liminal territory in terms of wear being minimal enough to just run a new chain. Part of that is due to me questioning whether I'm looking at/judging this well since I'm new to it. So I'm leaning towards just replacing it all, and then I'm also purchasing peace of mind and knowing it's all at 0. That said, I think I'm going to get the chain first and wait on sprockets till I have a minute to find the right ones. I imagine running a new chain on existing sprockets for a short period of time (likely just short test rides) is negligible in terms of wear. It'll also give me a chance to better assess the feel of the bike and how I want to gear it in terms of teeth. (As for riding, yes, I want to be able to have great off the line pull for city riding (and fun)--and avoiding people pulling into me--but also solid top end speed as I do go on highways a good deal. As far as me countering the bike's pull, I'm about 140lb and 5'8"). As of right now, if I go down I'm thinking I'd only go down one (33T) on rear, and if up, seems like 36 would be max since as much as acceleration makes me happy, it'll be really annoying if the bike is struggling at 90.
As for the chain specs: I didn't find any info on length or width in either owner's or service manual or parts diagrams. Old chain had 530 stamped on it which I believe is the pitch, and I saw that 5Twins said the standard length is 104 (I counted the plates on the last chain and it was 52, so 104 links I believe). So sounds like I'm looking for a 530 104 length unsealed, or standard.
However, when I was adjusting the chain tension and moving the rear wheel back and then forward, it got me thinking that I could perhaps get a longer chain that enables me to have the right chain tension when put at the farthest setting back, meaning the rear wheel will be farther back by about an inch.
Why? Design thing--I like it when the rear wheel looks farther out from the engine and bike's "center," making the bike look longer and visually balanced, not as far as the front wheel but negative space. Extending the swingarm is something I thought a lot about doing, but from what I'd read, the turning radius and maneuverability I'd lose for the amount of inches I'd need to extend it to make it worth doing, didn't make sense for a daily rider--function over form at the end of the day. (Hence I figure why drag bikes are long and meant only to go straight). Anyway, I thought maybe this would be one of the ways I can create that illusion--it's about 1.25in difference between the first position and the last, and that's about the same length as a link plate (1.21"). So 105 length at least, but that's assuming 104 had it at the tightest setting and I don't know off hand, but 105 would be max needed for just that task. (which I doubt they carry, so it sounds like I'll need to remove links). I saw
@5twins say I can buy longer and remove links, but at present I don't know how involved that is--chain breaker? some pointy item and a hammer at the pins sounds like it'd work in theory. So my question to you is if you see downsides to doing this or if you see I'm missing something and it won't work. Length needs to work for new sprocket setup too obviously sooo:
Re chain length for sprockets: I imagine I need a longer or shorter chain depending on sprocket teeth? Looking at a 110 link one right now--how do I determine if that will work for 36 tooth setup or 33 setup, for example, or 39 if I lose my mind? (front staying at 17) One link per extra/less tooth? If that's correctish, then, adding 1 link for keeping it at last setting, I'd be okay buying anything at least 104-107 for sprocket setup ranging 33-36.
So overall I just want to be sure right now whether I'm buying the right (and closest if I can avoid having to remove links as I'm understandably wary of chains at the moment) chain length for having chain tension/rear wheel at last setting while still having right chain tension, right length for sprocket options (somewhere in 33-36 likely) and bike specs. I don't feel like 110 would end up being too short, so as long as I don't have to go shorter with that one I think I'm good as I can always remove..
Specs for sprockets: Any other specs I need to be aware of besides teeth? I imagine the inner diameter of the hole...but I Didn't see any specs for the front or rear in owner or service manual, or on oem parts page on partzilla for instance. I did read that my chain width, so the 3.0 eighths of an inch (.375"), needs to match my sprocket width. I could follow the measurements for the sprockets in the kit that 5Twins linked to, but it says that kit is for 75-81 bikes... or 83 is the same?
Ah okay I have to run away, hopefully this makes sense. Hoping to buy the chain tonight!
Oh and
Did you take the master link off to see if the link plate fit over the pins one by one?
Yes, I did try and they wouldn't go down one by one either. When I looked at it, and tried to slide it down, it didn't want to go past the recessed dimple below the pin heads. I don't see any burrs on the legs or head--there may be some inside the plate holes I can't see well enough, but honestly, unless I find time before a new chain arrives, I'm done messing with this chain and link. I can post pics tonight of the Masterlink as it is now--there only thing I can see is a verrrry slight but even sloping at edges of plate, but considering the methods I used to bang it back in--over holes in center etc--and that the plate lays perfectly flat etc, I'd be surprised if that was it.
