And for my next trick ....

I had vibrations on one XS 650 because a left side crash disturbing the crank.
I used and still use a type of
Rubber foam grips ca 50 % larger diameter than stock and softer.
I would prefer smaller diameter I have small hands.
And had / have weights --- Dampers in bar end
Stock handlebar
With one size over on pilot jet and main jet Which is probably a bit to much
Crank is now adjusted ..
The word is Perfect ..,in the vibration sense .. especially at highway speeds.
Between 50 km / h and 100 km / h
Absolutely nothing
Nothing else is perfect on the bike but there are no vibrations anymore in the grips.
Absolutely Nothing felt in the hands. Anymore.
So I am reluctant to go down on jets.

I fitted Progrip 714 grips and love them. Put them on my DRZ too.
 
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Well, I had to cut a bit from the side panels to clear the wider tank and fuel taps, but it's finally all in place and I'm happy. I'll fit the chrome headlight over the winter as that will involve faffing about with wiring.
 

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Regarding Grips and Damper

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Got a newer phone with a better camera
Foam grips with larger diameter Installed Many years ago .
And dampers at the end.
It is working very well for me ..
I get some criticism for the oversized mirror. It appears larger in the Photo
But it also works very well out on the Road
 
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Well, I had to cut a bit from the side panels to clear the wider tank and fuel taps, but it's finally all in place and I'm happy. I'll fit the chrome headlight over the winter as that will involve faffing about with wiring.
How did this bike not get nominated for the calendar? :umm: She's a beauty Cliff!
 
Well folks, you're all very kind. I think it looks pretty good, but then I'm biased!
It's now wearing a Motolanna chainguard, and after I've fitted the billet (Motolanna again) headlight brackets and new chrome headlight over the winter I think I'm pretty much there as far as cosmetics are concerned.

I'm happy :D
 
I get some criticism for the oversized mirror. It appears larger in the Photo
But it also works very well out on the Road

Your bike truly is very very pretty Cliff and in my view, criticism from people who are NOT riding my bike (or at least, the same bike that I am riding) isn't worth a pinch of coonsh!t.

You only have to please the person staring back at you when you are shaving.

Pete
 
After much delay not least due to a sickly (but now well) DRZ400, I finally got on with replacing the headlight + brackets. I had rather naiively thought that I could simply reroute the stuff in the old headlight shell backwards, hack the loom a bit and hide all the nastiness under the tank but needless to say it turned out a bit more tricky than that and has made me realise I need to do a proper, stem to stern, rewiring job. That is likely to be next winter or lockdown, whichever comes first!

After much cutting, crimping, swearing etc I ended up with this, which is far from ideal but will have to do for now:
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but on the bright side, the headlight shell now has next to nothing in it:
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I do think it's sharpened up the looks nicely though:
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Next? Work up a wiring diagram (I'm currently wrestling with LibreOffice Draw and ruthlessly plagiarising the various diagrams on this site), get all the requisite bits and build up as much of the loom as I can off the bike before finishing the job during the next seasonal/pandemic break.
I love Jayel's diagrams and wonder what software he used to make them. I'm cheap so I've gone for freeware :)
 
It's that time of year again when the salt goes down so the spanners come out ... winter tweaks.
I still haven't worked up that bloody wiring diagram though I'm trying to learn Inkscape now. It's going to be a long process but I'll get there eventually. For now though I'm fitting the aluminium engiine mounts from Repo Man but trying a method which hopefully preserves frame bracing at least to some extent. Here's the bits after a bit of polishing:
20211127_153833.jpg
Fixings are (expensive) A2 stainless. The tubing on the left is thick-walled and should be strong enough, I think.
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Sadly though I mismeasured - easily done with the exhaust pipes in the way - and two fixings are 1cm too short, so I've done what I should have done in the first place and ordered a length of 10mm A2 round bar. I'll cut that to the lengths I need and cut threads in the ends - I bought a M10x1.25 die a couple of weeks ago. My bolt heads are locking nuts+red Loctite.
Here's what the assembly looks like:
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And I'll have a go at the oil leak I've been trying to banish. I've already replaced all the oil seals and the clutch pushrod bush, but there's still an annoying weep. I have a Scottoiler so it'll always look a bit oily but the fling from the gearbox sprocket tells me I've got something wrong - maybe I didn't tighten the nut enough? As always, I'm open to ideas.
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Right, back to the kitchen. Time to work the dough again ready for proving in the tins. Then back to the garage ...
Cliff
 
Agree with Gary. If it's a slightly bent used one it can be a bugger to keep centered as you tighten the nut. I'll sometimes use strips of duct tape and tape it (around the edges) to the sprocket. Holds just enough to get the nut snug.

I still haven't worked up that bloody wiring diagram though I'm trying to learn Inkscape now.
Have you tried TinyCAD? Open source... and it's a one trick pony.... only does wiring diagrams.
Have a look here.
 
Thanks, chaps. I think Team Junk's referring to this thread (Bob has more than one!) and the following post. I'm a man in possession of Hylomar and I'm prepared to use it!
I seem to recall having to flatten the used tab washer before fitting it, so maybe I shouldn't be so cheap and just invest in a new one. Whatever, I'll need to take it apart and give it all a thorough clean.
Jim - I did look at TinyCAD but couldn't make friends with it. Perhaps I didn't persevere enough but I think Inkscape will do what I want. And I'm quite enjoying the challenge :)
 
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