Another Fouled Plug Thread

Did you have the rotor disconnected from the regulator when you checked it? If not, disconnect it and retest.
The regulator is sitting on my kitchen table so I went down to the garage to retest the rotor and the readings jump around a lot with very little movement of the leads and seems to settle out around 2ohms.
 
The regulator is sitting on my kitchen table so I went down to the garage to retest the rotor and the readings jump around a lot with very little movement of the leads and seems to settle out around 2ohms.
Take some fine (600) sandpaper or a scotchbrite pad and clean up a section of the rings so you get good contact and retest. You could be having problems with the carbon buildup on the rings.
 
Take some fine (600) sandpaper or a scotchbrite pad and clean up a section of the rings so you get good contact and retest. You could be having problems with the carbon buildup on the rings.
Just read your thread Jim. I have bookmarked it for future troubleshooting. I get a good deal with FedEx if I need to ship my rotor off to you! Although that conversion rate though... haha.

So cleaned the rotor up with 1200 grit (all I had) and got an instant reading of 2ish ohms. Not sure if I can even get it reworked? See pictures below. A longer screw was definitely rubbing into it. This is the first time I had removed the screws myself just yesterday to inspect the brushes too so appears was from the PO.
 

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Ouch!! :yikes:
Yeah... 'bout all you got left there is a boat anchor. :(
I have a TCI rotor I could rewind for ya. PM me if you're interested.
 
. A longer screw was definitely rubbing into it. This is the first time I had removed the screws myself just yesterday to inspect the brushes too so appears was from the PO.
This isn't rare, there are two screw lengths used on the TCI stator frame, put a long where a short belongs and get a rotor that looks like yours.
Bummer, sorry dude.
Just one example of how useful pictures can be when asking for troubleshooting help.
 
This isn't rare, there are two screw lengths used on the TCI stator frame, put a long where a short belongs and get a rotor that looks like yours.
Bummer, sorry dude.
Just one example of how useful pictures can be when asking for troubleshooting help.

Agreed gggGary. I will try to post more pictures when troubleshooting.

House to myself tonight so started to get into the carb. Starting with one carb at a time and being very carefully for dissasembly. See attached picture of my needle jet. To go one step leaner, I will want to move the snap ring towards the top correct?
 

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Yes, move the e-clip up. That lowers the needle in the slide and sticks it down into the needle jet more. That makes for leaner running.
 
Yes, move the e-clip up. That lowers the needle in the slide and sticks it down into the needle jet more. That makes for leaner running.
Excellent. After going through the carb guide again I moved the needle jet so it sits lower by one notch. I am also going to order some main and pilot jets to have on standby after I get my new rotor and brushes in.

My thought is if I know I have a strong charging system, then I know I am getting a strong spark (given all connections are tight, etc.). With a stronger spark (if that was an issue to begin with) I should get a cleaner burn, and with the lowered needle jets we will see how it goes once it's all back together. Will report back at the end of June.

Thanks gggGary, Jim and 5twins for your help :)
 
So I have an update to share:

- Received my new rotor from Jim and installed. Ensured screws were not contacting rotor. Used the rotor puller from Mikes XS to pull old rotor.
- Installed new brushes
- Removed carbs, cleaned top portion of carb and lowered the jet needle one position. Also bench sync'ed carbs before reinstalling on to bike. Idle mixture screws set to 3 turns out.

I started the bike with the choke and it seemed to start up ok and run just OK. After a minute or so I pushed the choke in ensured the idle was set to 1400 RPM. I put my voltmeter on my battery and was reading around 13.1 volts with all fuses install.

I still think I am having carb issues, but I feel I am getting closer. Also I am running the same fouled up plugs after cleaning them up a bit. Next I will to go for a 50 or 60 km ride and report back. Attached is a short clip of the bike at idle.

Thanks again for everyone's help!

 
Sounds like you're making progress. Video sez "unavailable." Check and see that you didn't make it "PRIVATE." Don't ask me how I know to check that :rolleyes:
 
Idle spec for these is 1100-1200 RPM. At 1400, the alternator is already beginning to produce a charge, which may explain the 13.1v reading you're getting. At a 1200 RPM idle (and headlight on), I usually see volts in the low 12's on mine.

I've never seen a setting spec list for the Canadian BS34s. I have no idea what clip slot on the needle was stock. I have compared one of those adjustable Canadian needles to a fixed clip U.S. model one though. The U.S. needle measures 50mm from the bottom tip to the fixed clip. The Canadian needle measures 50mm to it's top clip slot. That means any lower clip setting will be richer than the U.S. needle. The #2 (2nd from the top) slot may very well have been the stock setting for it.

Something else you can check is the air jet size in the bell housing where the air filter clamps on. That air jet feeds the idle circuit. U.S. models had a size 135. Most of the rest of the world with adjustable needle BS34s got a leaner size 130. But, being the air feed, less air means a richer mix.
 
What's the volts at 2500-3000 rpm?
 
Idle spec for these is 1100-1200 RPM. At 1400, the alternator is already beginning to produce a charge, which may explain the 13.1v reading you're getting. At a 1200 RPM idle (and headlight on), I usually see volts in the low 12's on mine.

I've never seen a setting spec list for the Canadian BS34s. I have no idea what clip slot on the needle was stock. I have compared one of those adjustable Canadian needles to a fixed clip U.S. model one though. The U.S. needle measures 50mm from the bottom tip to the fixed clip. The Canadian needle measures 50mm to it's top clip slot. That means any lower clip setting will be richer than the U.S. needle. The #2 (2nd from the top) slot may very well have been the stock setting for it.

Something else you can check is the air jet size in the bell housing where the air filter clamps on. That air jet feeds the idle circuit. U.S. models had a size 135. Most of the rest of the world with adjustable needle BS34s got a leaner size 130. But, being the air feed, less air means a richer mix.

Thanks for the reply 5twins. I set my idle to about 1200 RPM and was reading 13.01v. I decided to leave my idle in this position.
I pulled my air jet and it is indeed a 130 like you mentioned.

What's the volts at 2500-3000 rpm?

Hey Jim. Voltmeter reads about 13.4v at 2500 rpm.


It was a beautiful 19 degrees Celsius today so I took my bike for a spin around my favorite circuit south of Calgary. I even talked to a couple fellow XS owners. The bike seemed to run smoother, hold the idle and just all around pull better and stumble less. I am fairly pleased with the progress. After a few hundred km's I will put some fresh plugs in and see if I can get the carbs dialed, but for right now I am quite pleased and will continue to tinker away and put the km's on this old girl.
 

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Consistent with a partially shorted rotor?
I hope not... he's got one of my rewinds.:yikes:
Could be the voltage regulator or rectifier. You running originals?
 
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