Discussion in 'The Garage' started by DirtyErnie, Jun 8, 2020.
You're gonna need bigger staples, just sayin...
Well then I guess I should ask the neighbor if I can borrow his dad's roofing shingle staple gun!
Considering what I have read in that mile long oil research thread, I'm going with Valvoline Vr1 racing oil, probably conventional, no additives, on the next change, which is due soon.
I'm also going to use an ethanol shield treatment or Stabil which helps the ethanol issue, in every other tank.
My dog's name is Millie and she has brown eyes.
As long as you don't ever use any oil of any brand or viscosity that has an "Energy” or “Resource Conserving" API mark on the container, you'll be fine. The label means that the oil (whether it is synthetic or not) has an additive package which will make wet clutches slip.
When it comes to oil..and everyone has their favorite..I use Walmart's Supertech 20W50 conventional oil..in all my vintage Yamahas for at least the past 10 yrs...Its cheap and with the frequency of oil changes with the 650 it doesnt pay to buy name brands..Now my ST1100 on the other hand will take nothing but the best..Shell Rotella T6 15w40 fully synthectic oil..Change interval....12K miles vs the XS650 @ 1200 miles...maybe less...
I am an oil change freak. It's cheap insurance, good maintenance and I'll be damned if I'd leave any oil in any engine for 12K miles.
Just got 2 qt of vr1 20w-50.
I always feel like that's to heavy because I do ride in cold weather.
Is there anything wrong with like 1 qt vr1 202-50 and 1qt of 10w-30 or 15w-40.
I would stick with the 20/50 during the warmer months. If you have problems starting it when it's cold then switch to a lighter oil. Bike spends a lot more time at operating temperature than warming up.
Yes, that makes sense.
I always seem to wind up favoring the lower line and want to add a bit more and now I'm at the top line. I figure it will blow by and get to it's optimum level.
I am not racing anyone so I'd rather have a little more than less.
Does the crank actually dip into the oil sump? If so, would it reach oil level if oil was at lower line.
Cranks dipping into the oil is usually avoided, as it leads to frothing, and frothy oil is bad at being pumped around.
There are some oddities though - some cheap-ass lawnmower engines and compressors had a dipper which scooped up some oil for the big end bearing, but that's kind of 1910 technology.
Dang, my oil is now at the upper of the 2 lines. Is that okay? I don't care if I get extra blow by for a while.
Nah, it's fine. My comment about older designs of cranks was about ancient engines.
Modern engine designers are smart enough to have the levels below where that will happen. You'd have to tip the full gallon in to run into a problem, probably.
Although, having said that, it's not unknown....
Okay ya did a search and once they modified the dip sticks the upper mark is max and the lower minimum with a recommended level between the two. Once some oil blows out I keep it under the max line.
JAP (that's J.A.Prestwich Engineering not the Oriental Guys) industrial engines still have that feature.
If it ain't got an oil pump it can't fail in service, eh?
I wouldn't use any 30 or lighter weights, even mixed with heavier stuff. Most all of those 30 and lighter oils have the energy conserving additives that will make your clutch slip. On any oil you think of using, read that API ring that Pete showed. That will tell you if it has the bad (for us) additives.
Funny you should mention JAP; on a triumph forum, that is an acronym that is automatically censored as being derogatory to the Japanese. Several people have explained J. A. Prestwich to the forum owner who will not unlock that single word.
When you say 'have' do you mean current production?
From what I see online that company was liquidated in 1964. So unless they have been revived in some way "have" would be a relative term!
Separate names with a comma.