Another voltage regulator thread full of questions.

If i get a new VR (VR110 i think is the number) do I my problems disappear? Or are problems reduced to something other than the VR?
If the voltage going into the regulator is within .3v of the batt, then odds are it's the regulator.
I think it's the VR-115 you're looking for. Not sure though...
 
Well, unfortunately I not even smart to be considered a dummy.
Here is what know so far.
My bike gets zero results on the slap test.
And with bike off, 12.6 at the battery but voltage at the outer brush is less than 6 volts, is this why I fail the slap test?
Question, how is it that the hot battery cable powers lights, horn etc thus power leaving the battery through the cable but power also comes back to charge the battery through the same cable?
5T, did you make an adaptor plate to mount the VR115?
And what about the couplers, do you find a 4 slot mate for the VR, and use an old XS mating connection on the other end?
 
Yes, I made a triangle shaped adapter plate to mount the VR115. I use one of the holes in the VR115 and the adapter plate provides the second hole matching up to the original battery box mounts. I cut a pattern out of card stock then transferred it to sheet metal. I think I used about 16ga. metal .....

YgWuBU4.jpg


GfPBTfD.jpg


I've mounted the unit "level" but may change that in the future. I may rotate the bottom forward a little bit because the right mounting bolt for the adapter plate to the VR115 comes very close to the side cover edge, almost rubbing on it. I have flipped that bolt around since the pic below, putting the nut on the inside, hex head on the outside. I also changed to a buttonhead Allen instead of the hex head .....

tWCWfoh.jpg


But, the best "fix" is going to be rotating the whole unit forward a bit. The upper right mount through the VR115 will stay the same, I'll just move the bottom hole in the adapter plate, or make a whole new plate.
 
For connecting the new unit up, you'll notice that it's wiring loom is very short, so an extension loom was made up. The connection point to the harness is on top of the battery box so obviously longer wires are needed. For the VR115 end of my extension loom, I didn't use a plug, just 4 individual male spade crimps .....

IT9g0fC.jpg


These plug right into the original VR115 plug. To keep them in place, I installed a couple cable ties, one around the 4 wires then a second through them above the first and wrapped around the back of the VR115 plug .....

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You'll notice that the VR115 has 4 wires but your original regulator only has 3. The black and green wires will match up. The yellow and red (or sometimes orange) get combined and connect to the original brown. I used a matching 3 connector plug on the bike harness end of my extension loom and combined the yellow and red wires there into one crimp .....

MPhpUJQ.jpg


The new wiring gets routed in behind the battery box just like the original did .....

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Thanks 5T, are you of the opinion the 115 is larger than OE VR?
Has anybody found something which is similar or smaller than the OE piece?
I am hoping to stay within the original footprint of the OE VR, or smaller thus my questions.
What is so perfect about the 115 which makes it such a good substitute?
 
Isnt it from a 71 AMC?
Nevertheless, hoping to avoid using up space once occupied by the original air boxes, for another project.
 
Yes, it may be for older AMC cars but it is a more modern solid state design. I have a charge indicating L.E.D. on my bike (thanks to gggGary) that changes colors as the charge rate changes. While I still had the original reg on there, I noticed the light would go from green (good) to orange (lower output) sometimes even when running along at a steady speed and RPM. I'm talking like 3800 to 4K RPMs. The output should have been good at that RPM, and stayed good, but it would randomly fluctuate down. With the VR115, the light goes green by as low as 1500 to 1800 RPMs and stays green. This illustrated to me just how erratic the output from that old mechanical regulator can be. I think all the vibration affects it.
 
My experience converting my ‘77 650 over to a VR-115 voltage regulator and a solid state rectifier. These were done by following 5Twins excellent tutorials. Mounting the VR-115 in the original location. Since this was written , I think some of the guys are now using Fiat rectifiers. Anyways, maybe you can find something useful here,

http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-60th-birthday-present.47639/page-16

http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-60th-birthday-present.47639/page-17#post-491248 Post #331

http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-60th-birthday-present.47639/page-18 ( read all the way down to the bottom of the page)
 
So by solid state, no chance of it ever over charging?
I tried to adjust my unit, I believe it got it to tone a bit, not goimg into the 15's anymore, I think.
On the problem side, still only 6 at the brushes and when revved, headlight does not increase, which I assume is a sign something else needs attention, or the biproduct of a perfectly charged battery?
Running all LEDs other than headlight
 
So by solid state, no chance of it ever over charging?
Ever? Even a hammer won't last forever. ;)
On the problem side, still only 6 at the brushes and when revved,
That's not a problem for an old mechanical regulator. If you want to spend enough money, you can buy a meter that will show you the spikes and lows. Doesn't matter though, you're overcharging. That means the rotor's getting too much power. Charge output is a function of field strength. Whatever the voltage is that's going to the rotor, it's more than enough... as in too much.
 
Ever? Even a hammer won't last forever. ;)

That's not a problem for an old mechanical regulator. If you want to spend enough money, you can buy a meter that will show you the spikes and lows. Doesn't matter though, you're overcharging. That means the rotor's getting too much power. Charge output is a function of field strength. Whatever the voltage is that's going to the rotor, it's more than enough... as in too much.

Oh, so the reason the headlight didnt change with RPM is because its always getting too much charge including at idle, thus its already maxed out? If so, I hadnt thought of that but if, why did the meter not go into the high 14's after I adjusted the VR? Why is it showimg the rate of charge at an acceptable level?
So the 115 should / could fix all this, or just eliminate the VR from the list of needed fixes?
Thanks Jim, if I was in your town, i would buy you a burger and shake at the local drive-in.
 
My experience converting my ‘77 650 over to a VR-115 voltage regulator and a solid state rectifier. These were done by following 5Twins excellent tutorials. Mounting the VR-115 in the original location. Since this was written , I think some of the guys are now using Fiat rectifiers. Anyways, maybe you can find something useful here,

http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-60th-birthday-present.47639/page-16

http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-60th-birthday-present.47639/page-17#post-491248 Post #331

http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-60th-birthday-present.47639/page-18 ( read all the way down to the bottom of the page)

So Mailman, did you happened to test your system after just adding the VR115, to determine if the VR was your only problem and or cure?
 
I don't think Mailman had charging issues, he just wanted to install the upgraded components. I feel these "upgrades" stress out the rotor and stator less, allowing them to operate more efficiently. The way the original regulator's output fluctuates so much, it's just got to be making those other components work harder.

The Fiat part is a regulator, not a rectifier, but is the type A ground switching kind that is needed for the '80 and newer charging systems. It is a bit more compact unit than the VR115 and could be adapted for use on the older system with some brush wiring changes and the changing of some of the steel brush mounting screws to nylon ones. I've never really searched for a more compact VR115 alternative but there may be some out there. The original recommendation for the '80 and newer systems was a regulator that looked very similar in size and shape to the VR115. I just happened to stumble across the Fiat one while searching eBay and now it's become a favorite. It's more compact, cheap, and nice enough looking that it wouldn't look terrible if mounted out in the open as opposed to hidden .....

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If you'd like to use Yamaha parts, there is another rectifier option, the unit used on some of the XS400 and 500 models. It is a more modern style, totally enclosed rectifier. The only change needed to fit it up is the plug. It comes with a female spade connector plug and you'll need to change that to the male type to plug into your harness .....

IkRVXeK.jpg


gwHCW6m.jpg
 
So Mailman, did you happened to test your system after just adding the VR115, to determine if the VR was your only problem and or cure?

Yes, when I bought my bike it wasn’t charging. Going through all the electrical system tests determined that it was a faulty rectifier, so I replaced it with a modern solid state unit. I just decided to do the regulator while I was at it , to bring the charging system into the 21st century. I was planning on adding an electronic ignition anyways so it was part of a whole system upgrade.

The Fiat part is a regulator, not a rectifier,

Ooops! My bad memory there, I just remember the cooling fins and thought rectifier.
 
If you'd like to use Yamaha parts, there is another rectifier option, the unit used on some of the XS400 and 500 models. It is a more modern style, totally enclosed rectifier. The only change needed to fit it up is the plug. It comes with a female spade connector plug and you'll need to change that to the male type to plug into your harness .....

IkRVXeK.jpg


gwHCW6m.jpg
5T, when you supply a pic like this, do you a have a library of all your projects and you just pull a photo from 5 years past?
 
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