Any reviews or thoughts on the Pamco Elec Advance add on unit?

Capt_Zoom

Raider Rider/xs newbie
Messages
870
Reaction score
4
Points
16
Location
BR Louisiana
Anybody tried Pamco Pete's new E-Advance? How is it? I wasn't planning on adding one but since I had to pull the motor for a top end rebuild and unwire things anyway now might be the time for the add on to my existing pamco.
 
I bought a unit last year with the electronic advance and I love it. My dad (it was his bike from 1981) rode it and said it runs better than it did when it was 2 years old.
 
Hey Capt.---The E-advance is compact, easy to install and gets rid of the pesky advance weights. I feel it works very well, my set-up has about 650 miles on it and it performs great. tim
 
hi guys
After installing the Pamco e-advance system it worked really well.
after a couple of weeks it idles beautifully but seems to run rough as the revs build, it wont go over 4500rpm and back fires we I close the throttle.
It's as if the advance isn't working 1-2000prm fine, 2-3000rpm slight surging in power, 3000-4500rpm very uneven power delivery then just runs out of steam.
Any suggestions would be welcome.
 
I would suggest you put a timing light on it, I suspect the issue is not with the Pamco. I'd be thinking dirt in a carb circuit, fuel tank vent, blocked line or filter. It sound s like a going lean issue. I would do a compression check just to eliminate that. Take a long a plug wrench get it up to to 4k, flip the ignition off, pull the plugs see what they look like. While doing a wake up on madness the other day after 4 years sitting, it was running just as you describe. I found one main jet was plugged with green gook. That bike has VM carbs
 
I have the E-advacer on my 75. It runs even smoother than with the stock advancer.
Are you running a PMA. From some reports a failed regulator on a PMA can give simular running issues. As engine rpms increase the failed regulator cuts back on voltage instead of maintaining it. This voltage loss causes ignition failure.
Leo
 
I have the E-advacer on my 75. It runs even smoother than with the stock advancer.
Are you running a PMA. From some reports a failed regulator on a PMA can give simular running issues. As engine rpms increase the failed regulator cuts back on voltage instead of maintaining it. This voltage loss causes ignition failure.
Leo
I have the E-advacer on my 75. It runs even smoother than with the stock advancer.
Are you running a PMA. From some reports a failed regulator on a PMA can give simular running issues. As engine rpms increase the failed regulator cuts back on voltage instead of maintaining it. This voltage loss causes ignition failure.
Leo
Thanks for your reply Leo and Gary
no - everything is stock apart from the Pamco. I'll visit a bike shop today to check the timing with a strobe light. at least that will narrow the issue down.
I'll show them your suggestions and let you guys know how things go.
Thanks again lads!
 
A faulty charging system can cause the battery voltage to be low, which shows up at higher RPM's as the coil has less time to "charge" up and needs the correct (14.5 Volts) voltage to produce a spark at high RPM, so check your battery voltage at and above 3,000 RPM. Should be 14.5 to 15 Volts.
 
Thanks Pamco Pete, Gary, Leo.
Your suggestions are appreciated.
Firstly the voltage was checked - 12.5v at 3000rpm. Dodgy regulator is suspected. Pete recommends 14.5v.
Next timing was found to be retarded, it seems the Pamco unit needs to be rotated opposite to what my (now ex-mechanic) thought. As we rotated it the revs increased at idle, now it is spot on. It idles at 1000rpm steady as a swiss watch.
Even power delivery to 6000rpm when it runs out of steam. I'll ask for opinions on this as this has always been the case.
The guy that fitted the Pamco was quick to blame the devise for my problems, but I think it has been the best change I have made, it's a different machine and now much easier to live with. Instant starting, even power delivery and steading idling.
Your blood is worth bottling as we say in Oz.
Ride safely.
 
12.5 Volts at the battery probably means 11.5 Volts at the coil which is 3 Volts below the optimum of 14.5 or 3/14.5 = 20% less than optimum. The dual output coil produces a positive Voltage on one of the spark plug wires and a negative Voltage on the other.The negative Voltage is as much as 40% more efficient than the positive Voltage, so we could say that the positive spark plug wire is getting 60% below optimum Voltage which at higher RPM's will cause whichever cylinder has the positive voltage to miss.
 
Back
Top