Are connectors really necessary?

[Chachiboy]

This is a newbie question that may seem like a no brainer... But I have to ask...

The bulky plastic connectors (example 6 pin) on my bike are so old and corroded. Plus they take up space...

My question - are these plastic connectors really necessary? Can't I just bypass them and connect the wires directly to each other?

 

[gggGary]

They are really convenient and useful. Yes I have tried the direct soldering of wires method, it reinforced the need for connectors. Reduced custom looms maybe not so much but stock wiring really benefits from having them.
Hint; hit connectors with silicone spray BEFORE trying to separate them, it helps everything go easier.
Yes sometimes bikes that have set in the sun have badly decomposed crumbling connectors. If that's the case you might need to do whatever it takes to make good connections.
Crimp connectors are much better than direct soldered or wire nuts. A "real" crimping tool is pretty much needed to install wires reliably into bullet connectors.

 

[Bushyeyed1]

Connectors are there to give you ease to removing parts. Of course they aren’t needed, but it makes things easier when your doing maintenance.

 

[kevski]

I have removed a lot of the bulky connectors and replaced with bullet connectors, I have a 78 special and put different bars on, this also allowed me to relocate where they are connected and a lot of the connections are now under the tank, much better than the cramped OEM mess in the headlamp, I also purchased the correct size bullet connectors and not those nasty cheap red and blue things.

 

[arcticXS]

Chachiboy, as you are rewiring your bike anyway, using an M-unit, you should be able to use fewer connectors than oem. For example the taillight. It has 3 bullet connectors hidden under the bracket, then another set on top of the rear fender. I would run wires directly from the bulb holder (s ) to the M-unit. This will require soldering the new wires on to the bulb holder, but that is straightforward. If you should want to add bullet connectors later, that is easy to do.
As I posted in your rewiring thread, I have also ordered an M-unit, and plan a full rewire of my 77. My goal is to reduce the wiring, and the number of connectors to a minimum. I plan on using the mesh type wire protection, as it can be pulled snug around the wires, and the ends can be secured with normal heat shrink.

 

[Downeaster]

I've rewired or repaired the wiring on several bikes. I got OEM style connectors and pins from vintageconnections.com and a decent roll crimping tool. I actually find it fun to build new connectors, but I'm known for being about half a bubble off level...

 

[Downeaster]

 

[nj1639]

Knowing that no two multi connectors will swap is reassuring.

 

[arcticXS]

If I need any multi plug connectors, I prefer this type:
https://www.biltema.no/bil---mc/elektrisk-anlegg/kabelkoblinger/kontakter-2000031729
Not a US vendor, just showing an example of a good, sealed connector.
Max cable dimension is 1.5 sq.mm, so good for up to 10-15 A current.
On my Duc 600, that type of connector is used for the single phase AC wires from the alternator, and is still in good condition after 25 years.

 

[Chachiboy]

Chachiboy, as you are rewiring your bike anyway, using an M-unit, you should be able to use fewer connectors than oem. For example the taillight. It has 3 bullet connectors hidden under the bracket, then another set on top of the rear fender. I would run wires directly from the bulb holder (s ) to the M-unit. This will require soldering the new wires on to the bulb holder, but that is straightforward. If you should want to add bullet connectors later, that is easy to do.
As I posted in your rewiring thread, I have also ordered an M-unit, and plan a full rewire of my 77. My goal is to reduce the wiring, and the number of connectors to a minimum. I plan on using the mesh type wire protection, as it can be pulled snug around the wires, and the ends can be secured with normal heat shrink.

When rewiring the munit, the wires were connected to ensure all worked well but they weren't tidied up. Now that I am in the tidy up stage I want to hide as much as I can. Light connectors like you mentioned are already gone. The bulk connectors that I want to hide and streamline are the regulator, ignition unit and alternator connectors. There jus isn't enough room under the tank to fit.

I should also mention I have removed the bulky battery tray and replaced with a smaller electronics box that has the munit, ignition unit and new battery (once purchased)

 

[ReycleBill]

I wish I were rewiring my XS. I'm currently rewiring my '88 Dodge D150 pick-up and I'm not happy at all. I actually found cut ground wires INSIDE what appears to be a never before tampered with wiring harness. Not fun, not fun at all.