Back at the old project, very lost with wiring. Please help!

Hi WER,
not the only good ones, mine worked fine too.
It's that I surrendered to list peer pressure and swapped them out for mini-spades.
At least my surrender only cost me $25 and some solder & shrinksleeve work.
Unlike the big bucks it'd cost me to swap out my still 100% operational stock alternator & ignition for a PMA & Pamco.

 

Hey Fred, I do now offer a 4way if you are still in need at all, I know this is an older post just throwing it out there. Also use code "giveaway" until midnight 4/18/16 and it will get you 10% off.

Greg

 

Hi Greg,
yeah, I saw your new 4-way posted here, nice unit.
But the 3-way and the 1-way you sent me works just fine and I ain't about to change it just for fashion's sake.
Mind you, now that I think about it, right now I've got your 3-way with the three 10Amp fuses in it, your extra 1-way with the 20Amp main fuse in it AND two extra 1-ways with 10Amp fuses for my Wolo Bad Boy horn and my charging jack all jammed in atop the battery cover.
I shoulda got TWO of your 3-ways instead, eh?
Or do you suppose there's a market for a 6-way?

 

The battery had a ground strap that ran from the battery to a bolt in the frame just behind the battery. Just behind the battery is a frame cross member. On the flat verticle side of this is cross member is were the ground bolts too.
Hot side went through a hole down to starter relay.
If it sparks good with the battery hooked to the coil is a good start.
Using your multi-meter on the 20 volt DC range. Touch the black lead to ground, touch the red lead to the red wire, actually it's red with a white tracer, If you don't get a reading near battery voltage you will need to trace this wire back toward the battery. You need a diagram for your bike.
Following the diagram the red/white wire goes up and splits, one way goes to the side stand relay. Just unplug this relay. It grounds the R/W wire to kill ignition.
Another way goes to the TCI box. The third way goes up to another split, one to safety/headlight relay, the other to the engine stop switch, often a place the power stops, dirty contacts inside, can be taken apart and cleaned. From the engine stop switch it goes up to the ignition fuse, another place power can stop, weak clips that hold the fuse, From there it goes on the brown wire to the key switch, another place with dirty contacts, it to can be taken apart and cleaned. From the switch to the main fuse and to battery positive.
This is the general procedure for back tracing any circuit. You can also forward trace by starting at the batter and flowing the wires.
Good hunting.
Leo