Boy, JRay77 - you sure know how to throw a party!
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Barn Yard find - 73 TX650
- Thread starter Oddjob
- Start date
Oddjob
adsgads
So, while waiting for the muffler clamp hardware to come in I retorqued the head, set the cam chain, set the valves, and decided to try to static time the ignition.
I read and re-read the various procedures, but I was nowhere near the “F” mark when the points were opening… they were about 90 degrees out or so…
So, I reset the crank to TDC (line to the right of the “T”) and pulled the ATU right side nut off to expose the ATU rod pin and… and
nowhere near vertical.
Next, I panicked a bit… thoughts of the PO owner assembling the head with the cam in a random position crossed my mind… read a few more threads on ignition timing, cam chain alignment etc… pulled off the ATU unit (but not before snapping one of the e-clips in half)… and was a little bit relieved to find that the ATU locating pin was missing…
With the left cylinder at TDC, and based on the pin bore, it appears that the pin if it would have been there, would point vertically downward.
So now I’m waiting on 3x8mm dowels and 4mm e-clips from McMaster Carr…
Lesson learned… expect the unexpected from someone else’s work… on the positive side, this also gave me a chance to lube up the bone dry ATU rod bushings…
I read and re-read the various procedures, but I was nowhere near the “F” mark when the points were opening… they were about 90 degrees out or so…
So, I reset the crank to TDC (line to the right of the “T”) and pulled the ATU right side nut off to expose the ATU rod pin and… and
nowhere near vertical.Next, I panicked a bit… thoughts of the PO owner assembling the head with the cam in a random position crossed my mind… read a few more threads on ignition timing, cam chain alignment etc… pulled off the ATU unit (but not before snapping one of the e-clips in half)… and was a little bit relieved to find that the ATU locating pin was missing…
With the left cylinder at TDC, and based on the pin bore, it appears that the pin if it would have been there, would point vertically downward.
So now I’m waiting on 3x8mm dowels and 4mm e-clips from McMaster Carr…
Lesson learned… expect the unexpected from someone else’s work… on the positive side, this also gave me a chance to lube up the bone dry ATU rod bushings…
for some reason your pics never show up.............not the first thread this has happened to
Maybe the code has to be typed backward in Australia? They're showing up for me even after a rocky border crossing.
...or upside down?
The Tin Man
XS650 Addict
No GG we are not backwards here just upside down. 8)
Oddjob
adsgads
Seems like some moisture has made it to the coil high voltage studs at some point... any suggestions on how to remove the rust from the studs? sandblasting perhaps?
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I think I would go with new coils.
Oddjob
adsgads
I do agree that the best before date is probably up on these coils… doesn’t seem to be too many options for OEM type coils for use with points… Mikes has what appears to be EMGO OEM style coils, with varying opinions on their quality… the problem is that if I want to upgrade the ignition at some later point in time then I would probably need to buy different coils… again…
I’ve read of people on here using a single, dual output coil with the points wired in parallel, and with a single condenser… Might be something to consider especially if I can re-use later with an updated ignition.
While I was pondering the above I decided to use a micro-blasting tool to clean-out the rust… I then took the resistance readings (primary/secondary) and they were: 4.2/8.7K ohms and 4.3/9.0K ohms.
I believe this is within spec for the early ignition systems… 3.9±10%/8K±20% ohms…
I guess I’m trying to convince myself that these might work in the short term, so that I can see what I’ve got with this motor…
I’ve read of people on here using a single, dual output coil with the points wired in parallel, and with a single condenser… Might be something to consider especially if I can re-use later with an updated ignition.
While I was pondering the above I decided to use a micro-blasting tool to clean-out the rust… I then took the resistance readings (primary/secondary) and they were: 4.2/8.7K ohms and 4.3/9.0K ohms.
I believe this is within spec for the early ignition systems… 3.9±10%/8K±20% ohms…
I guess I’m trying to convince myself that these might work in the short term, so that I can see what I’ve got with this motor…
Cleaning should work for the short term. The problem is they will corrode again. The protective plating has been eaten away.
Oddjob
adsgads
Hi GLJ... I think that makes sense... I also had a look at this thread and I'm warming up to the idea of a dual output coil...
http://www.xs650.com/threads/dual-coil-with-points.16803/
What will you be running on your XS2?
http://www.xs650.com/threads/dual-coil-with-points.16803/
What will you be running on your XS2?
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use some silicone grease. If it runs well then starts acting up you know what to suspect.
Most likely a Pamco with e-advance. With the correct coil.
Oddjob
adsgads
So over the holidays I sorted out the exhaust, and prepped the bike for test firing. Since the wiring was a mess I decided to bypass the wiring and run it directly off a marine battery.
It started with little effort. The dynamic timing needed very little correction from its static settings. I Confirmed the point gap with a dwell meter, and it too was also very close. The cam chain was too tight and needed to be relaxed a bit to get the adjustment pin to dither by about 1mm or so.
Mix screws are at about 3 1/2 turns out. The jetting on the BS38's are; 140 MJ, 30 PJ, Needle jet #2 position from the top. I think I might need to go up one more size up on the pilot jet as it seems that mix screws are quite a bit out compared to the stock setting of 2 1/4 turns.
Here is a short video after running and warming it up for a few minutes.
The Triumph mufflers give it a muted tone but I think I like it. I've got a bobber that wakes up the neighborhood at will, so quiet is kind of refreshing.
Towards the end of the video it appears that carbs shake quite a bit with MIkes Xs carb boots... as noted by others that doesn't look like that will work long term. Not sure that would go away even with the metal shroud attached to the boots.
Anyhow, I needed to know that the engine ran before I continue to invest time and heartache wakening up the butchered wiring, and the the rest of the bike.
It started with little effort. The dynamic timing needed very little correction from its static settings. I Confirmed the point gap with a dwell meter, and it too was also very close. The cam chain was too tight and needed to be relaxed a bit to get the adjustment pin to dither by about 1mm or so.
Mix screws are at about 3 1/2 turns out. The jetting on the BS38's are; 140 MJ, 30 PJ, Needle jet #2 position from the top. I think I might need to go up one more size up on the pilot jet as it seems that mix screws are quite a bit out compared to the stock setting of 2 1/4 turns.
Here is a short video after running and warming it up for a few minutes.
The Triumph mufflers give it a muted tone but I think I like it. I've got a bobber that wakes up the neighborhood at will, so quiet is kind of refreshing.
Towards the end of the video it appears that carbs shake quite a bit with MIkes Xs carb boots... as noted by others that doesn't look like that will work long term. Not sure that would go away even with the metal shroud attached to the boots.
Anyhow, I needed to know that the engine ran before I continue to invest time and heartache wakening up the butchered wiring, and the the rest of the bike.
Your bike looks really nice and well sorted, the throttle response sounds very crisp and I really like the sound of the exhaust, that surprised me, those mufflers look like they’d be pretty restrictive.
Nice job!
I like it too. The mufflers are neat looking for sure.
Meddy
XS650 Addict
Looks and sounds good Oddjob.
Yes, try the next size up pilot. There is now a 32.5 size available. The sizes used to jump from 30 to 35 but now, as I mentioned, you can get that in between 32.5 size. A 35 is usually too big but this new 32.5 is often just what's needed. Since it is a rather new offering, some places may not list it, still showing the 30 to 35 jump, but it is available.
Even though those mufflers are quiet, they are quite large so maybe they do flow pretty good. Good flowing mufflers don't necessarily need to be really loud.
Even though those mufflers are quiet, they are quite large so maybe they do flow pretty good. Good flowing mufflers don't necessarily need to be really loud.
Nice sound to those mufflers. I think I would source out the stock air box. Those carbs are pretty heavy hanging out there, Nice looking bike. The 73 model is pretty hard to find in that condition. The gas tank on the 73 had a tendency to crack on the lower part of the tank near the mount so keep an eye on it.
