Battery died one week out after replacing rectifier and brushes. Help

Philofthenorth

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I know there are a lots of charging threads and I have read through a lot of them. but here is my story. So I had the bike in for a Ontario safety after purchase. The battery was not charging they did some rewiring as they found the old rectifier was wired in wrong and burned up . So I have a new rectififier and brushes in. They guys at the shop,told me it was charging so I rode it for a week only short 15 minute distances no problem it started with the electric start quite easily the whole time then on the last day I went on about a 45 minute ride each direction. the battery died just as I was arriving home sadly about 500 feet short of my house at the bottom of a hill. Damn that bike is heavy. I took the battery out and put it on the charger for the night. when I checked the voltage with a meter I was only getting about 12.5 while reving it in my garage. Also when I checked out the battery the 20 amp fuse going to the positive terminal was burnt on the one side but not in the middle where the fuse normally blows so I changed the fuse. So if I was getting no charge at all would it have lasted for a week before the battery was so low that the bike won't run properly? I spent more than I intended to with the purchase and an extra grand at safety inspection time so I don't want to take it back to the shop if it's something I can sort out on my own. Thanks any suggestions will help.
 
Blowing the fuse.....I'd check for loose/damaged/cracked/"failing" positive (+) connections.

Trace the line from the fuse possibly into the harness (hopefully not!) and also from the rectifier.

Maybe they did a half hearted repair on your wiring, if so... have THEM repair it at THEIR cost before YOU tear it up! Take pictures too, good luck!
 
The regulator is mounted In a box undear the seat with there not being much airflow in there could a regulator that is wired in correctly burn up in just a week of use? And would that also cause the fuse to burn up? If it is burned up would drilling a couple of holes in the box provide enough air to cool it or find another spot to mount it?
 
The regulator is mounted In a box undear the seat with there not being much airflow in there could a regulator that is wired in correctly burn up in just a week of use? And would that also cause the fuse to burn up? If it is burned up would drilling a couple of holes in the box provide enough air to cool it or find another spot to mount it?

Since you have brushes, that means you have a stock alternator. Stock type regulators normally do not generate much heat, so mounting in a box should work for you. Even though not a must do, it would still be a good thing to drill a few holes for some air flow..

Its the rectifier that generates heat, and needs to have a heat sink. Did the shop use a heat sink with the rectifier? The heat sink should not be enclosed, so that it can receive some air flow during driving. Where is it mounted?

If your bike (1978) still has the stock regulator, I recommend you replace it with an automotive nos VR-115 regulator. They are inexpensive and will work much better than the old mechanical regulator.
 
I have a solid state ricks motorsports regulator rectifier that was just replaced the previous one had burned out because the previous owner wired it in wrong. aAlso I noticed when I removed the fuse. The fuse had not melted in the middle of the fuse and kind of melted the fuse holder a little. I assume I should replace the fuse holder aswell???
 
I have a solid state ricks motorsports regulator rectifier that was just replaced the previous one had burned out because the previous owner wired it in wrong. aAlso I noticed when I removed the fuse. The fuse had not melted in the middle of the fuse and kind of melted the fuse holder a little. I assume I should replace the fuse holder aswell???

Now you say you have a combined rec/reg unit. Your previous posts indicated separate rectifier and regulator. The combined rec/reg should not be in an enclosed box. If you do mount the unit inside the box, you should have the cooling fins (heat sink) of the recifier portion protruding outside the box, so that there is some air movement around the fins.

Yes, replace the fuse holder. I don't know what type fuse holder you have now, but many of us use common automotive blade type fuse holders. They are very reliable.

Since your existing fuse holder melted on one end, that sounds to me like you may have one of those old original style fuse holders that hold a glass fuse. Some of those type have clips that lose their tension after many years of use. The poor tension combined with normal oxidation, produces a high resistance point in the circuit. Even normal current flow through the high resistance point causes heat to build up, and melting is the result.
 
Sorry for the confusion yes regulator rectifier combo. I will replace the fuse holder and see if that helps and move the rectifier as soon as I get off Baffin Island and back home. Thanks for the input.
 
Sorry for the confusion yes regulator rectifier combo. I will replace the fuse holder and see if that helps and move the rectifier as soon as I get off Baffin Island and back home. Thanks for the input.

I see Baffin Island has temperatures of +3 C to -3 C these days. That doesn't seem too bad considering how far north it is. I guess it will be getting colder in January/February:). What kind of work are you doing up there...............Federal Government or Coast Guard perhaps?

Here in Calgary, we are having lows of +4 C at night, and only +11 C today, so not the best motorcycle weather:eek:.
 
I work at an iron mine 2 weeks on and 2 weeks off. The weather here is quite delightful at the moment when I get back next time I'm sure it will suck. At home it's still mid 20's so hopefully I will get the bike figured out and out for a few more runs.
 
Hi Phil, I did the fuse box, solid state rectifier/VR-115 regulator swap last winter and it worked out great! I'm on the south end of lake simcoe so could help out if needed. Just yesterday did a ride up 48 east side of the lake, across 12 to Coldwater then up 17 to Big Chute. That's once cool marine railway. My son keeps bugging me about doing southwood road (13) from just north of Washago (11) to Bala. Says its an awesome ride. Let me know if you need a helping hand!
 
Hi Phil, I did the fuse box, solid state rectifier/VR-115 regulator swap last winter and it worked out great! I'm on the south end of lake simcoe so could help out if needed. Just yesterday did a ride up 48 east side of the lake, across 12 to Coldwater then up 17 to Big Chute. That's once cool marine railway. My son keeps bugging me about doing southwood road (13) from just north of Washago (11) to Bala. Says its an awesome ride. Let me know if you need a helping hand!
Thanks for the offer I have just put in a new regulator/rectifier so hopefully it's not shot after one week of use. If it costs me anymore money to get the stock charging system sorted out in the spring (unfortunately I don't have a garage big enough to play with it over winter) I may do the full swap to Pma. Pushing my bike up the hill to get it home is something I never want to do again.I had just made it back to Bracebridge after the (118) (169) loop around lake Muskoka. If I go the PMA route a helping hand would be greatly appreciated. Southwood road from washago up to Bala is a great ride I used to live in Bala I was the Chef at the Bala bay inn for a few years.
 
Finally got home from the arctic. Battery is good it held a charge for the 2 weeks I was away. Checked out the main fuse line the continuity on that is good . slap test is good. Checked the regulator rectifier with the multi meter and it seems like I managed to burn up a new rectifier regulator in one week. Another hundred bucks down the drain.
 
This is what I'm working with as you can see the rectifier/regulator is inside the box. I'm not sure I could manage the separate reg and Rec swap as I don't have the stock wiring harness with the connected plugs just individual wires. And I am definitely am new to wiring work. I think I can manage replacing the reg/Rex that is in there with another new one. I would just need to mount it on the underside of this box so it has better airflow. Before I do anything is there anything that could blow a diode in the rectifier regulator in one week than it overheating because it is inside the box?
 

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