Bobber Build by a total Newb

dilbone, sounds like a plan to me.
the only thing I would do is keep the push button start.
the button s good when stalling at a red light.
that way You can keep hands on the bars for restart.
just a thought Man.
I have small gauges too. mine are mounted just like yours.
 
hi, I sure hope you show a pic of your elec tube just the way that last pic was, but with the wires attached to the fuse holder. I'm using that same fuse holder, and am just always happy when somebody shows a pic.
Too much rain here to work on mine, but it's great to see you (and others with enclosed work spaces, lol) making progress.
:)
 
dilbone, sounds like a plan to me.
the only thing I would do is keep the push button start.
the button s good when stalling at a red light.
that way You can keep hands on the bars for restart.
just a thought Man.
I have small gauges too. mine are mounted just like yours.

You know Carbon I've really contemplated that as I know it will be a pain to reach down with my throttle hand to the key and have to reach across with my left hand to blip the throttle to start...I think I may be able to use one of the momentary switches on the left side control switch for start.
My left side control has the on-off-on for the turn signals and two momentary switches. I may use one for the horn(if I keep it) and one for the start...

I think I'm going to run the toggle for the hi/lo and put it on the gusset in front of the tank on the left side instead of on the headlight shell itself.

Now that I think about it...since I'm only running one set of switches to the handlebar I suppose I could run the one that I'm keeping to the right side instead of the left side. I initially was going to put the turn signal switches to the left hand, but I suppose I can run that to my throttle side so the start switch could be on that side too...hmmmm
Thanks for getting me to think it through...too many variables to consider


hi, I sure hope you show a pic of your elec tube just the way that last pic was, but with the wires attached to the fuse holder. I'm using that same fuse holder, and am just always happy when somebody shows a pic.
Too much rain here to work on mine, but it's great to see you (and others with enclosed work spaces, lol) making progress.
:)

I'm hoping to get at least all the ignition wiring done today and possibly start of the lighting circuits too. I'll try to take some pics as I complete each stage. As for the fuse holder...I'm going to run the battery line(the red pig tail off of the starter relay) with an in-line 20A fuse to the switch then come off of the switch to the fuse block post which will energize the entire block. At that point my ignition and lighting circuits will then come off of the blades of the fuse block through their respective fuses. I'm hoping/assuming that I won't have to run too many grounds since most have been grounded by being bolted to the bike frame...we'll see I guess.

and yes...it is nice having and inside workspace, although today here it is a high in the mid 70's and low humidity...very nice indeed!!!
 
Last night was a long night...

It all started with installing the pamco then into wiring it, the electronic advance, charging system, and the ignition switch.

first I had a panic moment because I thought my cam was in backward. The '78 spare motor that I scavenged the advance rod from actually had the cam the opposite direction as my '82. After some frantic searching it turns out the '78 has the cam backward. Wheeeww

Here's some pics along the way

Advance side
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Pamco side
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It's a flippin' mess...
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I think I got it all hooked up right. I went ahead and ran my line from the key on position to the fuse block so when I start the light wiring I'm ready to roll
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And the other side
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After all of that I finally got her ready to crank...here are a couple of short videos to see/hear the process

When I installed the advance rod and the pamco I had issues and when tightening the nut on the pamco end I rotated the cam clockwise... only got a few pops at first and my timing was so far off I wasn't even close. I thought maybe I could try to turn the cam slightly back to the ccw direction while holding the crank still...I got some movement, tried it again and it fired...set the timing and it actually idles pretty well at about 900 rpm right now but I think it'll go lower. Now I've gotta have a buddy come over and help me get this sucker off the table so I can take it down the road and back. Also this morning I checked the voltage at the battery while running...checked out at about 14.5v when reving it close to 3k on the tach, very good news


 
oh damn when You thought the cam was in backwards. I hope your heart didn't skip a few beats like mine would have!
nice low idle, some tuning and You will be having some fun.
righton :thumbsup: keep up the good work
 
Well I made a couple of 1/2" bungs and went to run the tap through them and realized I drilled 7/32 holes instead of 13/64...ugh...let's try that again.
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welded in and ground down...not pretty but at least you won't see them
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Looks like it'll work...I only need a couple of bolts, washers, rubber spacers/grommets and I'll be on to sealing this tank.
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and it's coming along...
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LOOKIN' GOOD!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Carbon...I'm not sure how many beats it skipped, but I know I was sweatin' bullets trying to figure out which side the threaded end was supposed be on.

I actually watched your video this morning about your clutch oil seal replacement...good stuff... the first one I put in shortly after I picked up this bike and the edge caught and tore it up. For just the couple of minutes I had it running last night it was leaking pretty badly. This morning I started working on it. Almost every time I've ordered something from Mikesxs I think I've picked up another seal. I still have 2 or 3 left I think. I didn't make as large of a chamfer as you did, but I tried to take the edge off a smidge. I greased it up really well, held my breath, stood on one foot and gently tapped it in:D. No leaking now...that's money!!!!

When installing the left side cover I found out the front bolt had actually been broken off by the PO. I'll have to eventually drill that out and re-tap it, but for now it should be fine. It took forever to bleed the front brake but I finally have a firm lever.

I can't wait to get this thing down off the table...I've got a buddy coming over in an hour or so and we're leaving for vacation in the morning...sooooo glad I got this done before we left. Now I can come back and focus on the rest of the wiring.:thumbsup:
 
Yea! It lives! Got to feel good to hear her fire up and run.
Good for you dilbone! Now get that thing off the table and get it outside man!
 
finally got it off the table and outside...I think I like it

It runs really well when it runs...(see more below)

It took me a while to dial in the clutch so it wouldn't die on me when I put it in gear...seemed a very fine line between slipping while kickstarting but dying when put in gear but I finally got it pretty close. Getting it into neutral is still a royal pain...can't figure out what else to try there.

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Now these next 2 pics are of the advance end of the pamco system. This sucker is all boogered up...and the pin in the cam keeps falling out and I lose timing...has happened twice in the 5 miles I've put on it up and down my road.
It's frustrating to say the least when you spend $200 to upgrade to a new ignition system and a very important piece is made of soft copper.

I feel like putting a dab of rtv silicone on the end of the pin as i put in in the cam to try and hold it in place...also I may try to file new grooves in the copper cap with needle files and see if I can get it back to proper condition. Anyone else ever have this issue?

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Dilbone, sound and looks good man.I would contact pamcopete about the copper spacer and see if he has a solution for you. By the way, have a good vacation man!
 
Thanks John,

I just went out and worked a bit on it...
Due to an installation issue I had when I first put this together I flattened the dome on the copper cap...
I was able with a couple of different size sockets to tap a bit of a dome back in the cap. This then allows the end of the cap to make better contact with the pin in the cam and should hold it in by friction like it's supposed to. I also put a dab of high temp rtv on the end of the pin to help hold it in. We'll see I guess... It started up ok but I think the widened slot on the top of the copper cap has messed with the timing. I'll have to get the light back out and see how much I've screwed it up by taking it all apart several times.

I may end up contacting Pete and see what he has to say about it. I may just try to file new slots if what I just did doesn't work...I just don't want to be stranded somewhere when/if the pin drops again...
 
I did send a message to Pete and he offered to send me a new one...that guy's amazing.

I think when I get home from vacation I'm going to file some new notches anyway and give it a go...I think it'll be fine, but it probably would be good to have a new cap for the advance side just in case.

I also broke 3 of the 4 turn signals in the process of getting this bike running... cheap plastic housing. I ordered a new set of turn signals that are aluminum and they were only $36 shipped so those will be in once I get home also. Number one priority will be the headlamp and brake/tail lights so I can put tags and insure this bike for the riding the rest of the summer before I tear it down this winter. Ok, can't get too far ahead of myself...sheesh
 
Hey dilbone, What and where did you get the aluminum turn signals from?
I knocked one of mine already, still there but loose.
Yeah, I've heard nothing but good things about Pete.
 
After getting back from vacation on Saturday I was able to get to work on the bike again. I went ahead and installed the new cap from Pete instead of messing around with the buggered up one. I re-set the timing and it's running really well. It is a little sluggish when you first start giving it throttle so I took the mixture screws out to 2.5turns. I have 137.5 mains and 45 pilots and was out only 1.5 turns to start off. From what I've read some people were suggesting 3 turns out with a similar setup so we'll see. It's doing a bit of spitting rain out there, so with a raw steel bike I'll have to wait to test it out.

On Saturday I was able to get tags for it and get it insured with the hopes that I'd have it legal on the road by the end of the weekend, but I still had all of the wiring for the lights to do.

I ended up wiring an on-off-on toggle for the headlight on the bucket
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I got the tail/brake wired up and finished with the turns. I feel like I've got a rat's nest up behind the headlight...not sure what I'm going to do with all of that. I like the new signals. The round style works much better with the tail/brake than the cheap plastic cat eyes I had picked up...although they don't seem as bright oddly enough.
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Finally got the bar end mirror on and the only switch I have on the handlebar there with an on-off-on for the blinkers and two momentary switches, one will be for the horn and the other might be a start button.
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I like that the handlebar is pretty clean...I know the wiring from the switch/brake mc is exposed, but I hadn't envisioned it being so clean without big ol' mirrors sticking up off of the bars and an additional set of hand controls on the right side.
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And I finally took the front fender off this morning...I was getting tired of looking at that nasty blue flame...I'm kinda diggin' it with no fenders at all. Although I really think I need a rear fender, but now with it all wired up I can't be doing any welding on it so I'm really debating fenders altogether now.
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Every time I ride it I get a little more confident that it won't explode into pieces, but the drive chain makes me really nervous. The oil tank ended up being closer to the chain that I had anticipated it would be and has a couple of dings in it from my first couple of trips up and down the road before I was able to get the chain fully adjusted and staying tight. Now every noise, that I can actually hear over the exhaust, makes me think the electronics tank is getting scalped.:yikes:

Last night I rode it into town to get the headlight position set and finally had it up to 60mph... I'm still sweating bullets waiting for something to fall off of it. I'm going to have to throw together some baffles for this thing sooner than later...it's so loud I can hardly stand it...If the pipes were back past me it might be one thing, but with them right under my feet it's a bit much. It's not the deep throaty loud of my electra glide but a piercing, annoying, that thing sounds broken kinda loud IMHO.

I also did some more adjusting on the clutch and finally have neutral nice and easy to find...now I just need to hook up the horn and the neutral light.
 
Well maybe one of your Bros will give You a gremlin bell.
then your worries will go away. Of course after a while you will get to know all the noises. Then just the new noises to worry about.
 
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