bought running bike, now it won't even start! please help

[boardrider12]

Hello everyone! I recently purchased a running bike from Redding California(elevation 700). The bike is a 1980 XS650 Special II. When I bought it, the bike ran. I brought it home to Reno NV (elevation 4500). Now it wont start. It has spark but the plugs dont appear to be wet when i pull them out. Is it a jetting issue? The float bowls drain and it doesnt appear to have any water in the fuel.

When I initially got it, the bike was cold to the touch so I dont believe it was forced to run before i arrived(starting fluid, etc ) please help!!! I want to ride before its to cold here.

 

[5twins]

Are you using the choke? It is usually required for a cold start, even in warm weather. You don't need to leave it on for long once started, but you need that initial shot of rich mix to fire the bike up.

 

[Ghetto]

Ya you are definetley going to have to re-jet that. Did you check for spark?

 

[gggGary]

On bikes with vacuum petcocks If hte bike has been sitting (or transported) turn the petcock to prime and start it, then return petcock to the on position. Do you have fuel in the tank? Check your oil by smelling the dip stick, smell any gas? You bike has BS34 brass float carbs (or did from the factory). The float valve body o-ring hardens and allows gas to leak past, replacement is highly recommended. (by me anyways )

Welcome to XS's and welcome to the board. Owning an XS is a trip, not always involving going down the road..... Expect some issues as the bike gets back to being used. Had it been sitting for a while when you bought it?

 

[scabber]

Welcome. Do not twist the throttle when starting. Twist the throttle it wont start for shure.

 

[boardrider12]

Im not sure but the former owner said he wasnt able to ride it as much... so... who knows. The oil smells like it should. I do have spark, and it has fuel. After turning the petcock, fuel flows into the line but leaves a small air bubble. (The line is clear.) I tried using choke, no choke. Doesnt seem to make a difference.

 

[gggGary]

I would open the float bowl drains and drain out some fuel out of both carbs. You did this. The air bubble is normal if the float bowl is full. Are the idle air screw covers removed? turn the screws in gently til they bottom (don't tighten) keep a count of how many turns it takes. Set them back where they were, try starting it again. If that doesn't do it you are probably looking at a carb cleaning.

 

[boardrider12]

Sorry, I know this is an old thread but I still can't get it started easily.

I CAN get it started, but it requires pulling the pods off, flooding the carbs by covering them with my hands and cranking the E-starter with the choke on full. Then, I can kick the bike over with some good kicks.

Tried to adjust the air idle screws and set them back to normal but it wouldn't change the sound of the engine at all at any setting. The engine didnt raise or lower RPM's at all in the lowest, highest, and anywhere in between settings.

I'm lost. Please help!

 

[gggGary]

Welcome to the board.
Read the carb guide, plan on a carb overhaul, pay particular attention to the enricher passage in the bottom of the float bowl.
If you need more help ask, but please let us know what year your carbs are. If you don't know; some pics will help us help you.
It's nice to include your year model in your signature so we don't have to keep asking...

I would, but I have at least one of nearly every year, model LOL.

I am doing a set of 71 carbs as I write this.

 

[weekendrider]

Maybe not so much a overhaul (as in buying replacement parts} as a good cleaning?

 

[boardrider12]

Good advice. I will put my bikes year and exact model in my signature.

This forum is amazing!!! I post, walk the dog and get 2 separate replies!! Thank you VERY much.

 

[gggGary]

A good cleaning for sure, parts as needed not so much a kit.

MY replacement parts on the 71 set so far;
bowl gaskets, 4 throttle shaft seals, 1 throttle shaft butterfly screw, 1 float, other float was already a replacement (yes I can tell). and if smarts overrule cheap; both float valves. Diaphragms look good and I have carefully lubed those with pure silicone (grease not caulk!). brass all looks good.



Note common "radial cracks", after cleaning one hole is obvious but there are others also.


The float test. Cup of hot water, a few minutes in the micro, note the bubbles from the second dip. Dang it that was the second bad float in this set.

My HF ultrasonic cleaner croaked last night, dim-it. slopped pinesol and some got to the control.
Edit; took the cleaner apart, dried all the boards with a hair dryer, reassembled and I'm back in business!
Never give upon electronics till after the hair dryer treatment.

 

[boardrider12]

I put some Seafoam in the tank and I plan on running that through the bike to see if it cleans up my problem at all first. If not, I will be pulling the carbs and cleaning. Thanks again for the help.

Side note- What makes a "G" or Special II so special?

 

[5twins]

Nothing, absolutely nothing, lol.

 

[gggGary]

what 5t says!
Special II means it was the cheapest xs650 built, with chrome spoke wheels and any other excess parts Yamaha had in the bins, they could be had for $1000 brand new or even less after the dealer got tired of wheeling it in and out of storage for a couple of years.
Still a great ride and the TCI and BS34s make a good runner once they are properly repaired and tuned which hopefully you will decide to do one of these days when you are tired of pushing it back to the garage.
These days the hubs from your spoke wheels are worth more than complete mag wheels.

 

[5twins]

Amen brother, Seafoam in the tank is no substitute for a proper and thorough carb cleaning.