Brake m/c swap when ditching buckhorns for euros

[oneup]

So the slanty mc is better when using dual disc due to piston size. Is there no dual or quad piston caliper that is a bolt on that would essentially duplicate two single piston calipers while not adding the extra weight of 2nd disc/caliper, etc?

 

[5twins]

I'm not aware of any. Some adapt other calipers like a Brembo, but it requires a custom mounting bracket. Cheapest and easiest route is a used replacement MC with a smaller bore from another Yamaha. What makes a Yamaha one desirable is that it will accept your brake lever, reverse thread mirror, and brake light switch. This is an 11mm MC from a TTR225 I got off eBay for about $20. It's a bit weathered but that matches the rest of the bike, lol .....

 

[oneup]

I've been looking at those, will likely snag one.

 

[xjwmx]

Not every old Yama cyl accepts reverse threads on the mirror. At least one doesn't...

 

[oneup]

I have Motogadget bar ends so I don't need the mirror threads.

 

[DogBunny]

So the slanty mc is better when using dual disc due to piston size. Is there no dual or quad piston caliper that is a bolt on that would essentially duplicate two single piston calipers while not adding the extra weight of 2nd disc/caliper, etc?

The stock M/C and stock single caliper worked well with the stock rubber brake lines -- those lines would swell a little when you applied the brake, and the large diameter bore of the caliper took care of that. Braided stainless steel lines don't swell -- when you put them on, that's when the stock M/C becomes overkill. Nonetheless, it does work. Plenty of us are using the stock M/C and caliper and braided stainless. It really isn't a big deal and you get used to it.

 

[gggGary]

see my avatar, later model 600 750 rotors both used and new from china bolt on (with an aluminum spacer) at a weight savings of 3 pounds a rotor! Have your cake and eat it too. When I've been riding Madness and then ride a single rotor XS the difference is VERY noticable.

 

[gggGary]

Madness with the duals and the stock angled MC on euro bars prolly Emgo's. Also has Virago risers, about an inch up and back from stock risers.

 

[gggGary]

PS note there is about 1/2" of bare handlebar 'tween the control and MC, that's important, Yamaha used a plastic spacer there.

 

[5twins]

Why is that important?

 

[gggGary]

Why is that important?

Without the gap, the adjuster screw on the lever can hit the control housing causing an annoying lack of front brakes.

 

[arcticXS]

Well, that OEM slanted MC looks pretty bad, even with buckhorns. Worse with some flat bars. Forget about mirror thread altogether, and get a Brembo "coffin reservoir" type with 12 or 13 mm bore. Lighter, more compact, and has a brake light microswitch, so you can lose the heavy oem switch, and use a single line. As for single vs twin disc setup, a single 300-320 mm disc combined with a 4 pot caliper is a lightweight setup, and is all the brake you need on an XS. The "Euro" oem twin disc setup on my -77 is stupid heavy, and not very good at all. All the stock brake parts from my XS is at the bottom of a cardboard box, and I will never fit them again. Going to a 320 mm bespoke ISR disc, 4 pot Brembo caliper with home made adapter, 13 mm Brembo MC, single braided line, EBC HH pads saved around 4 kilos (9lbs) ! And is a much better brake as well. See pic of my front brake above.

 

[5twins]

I've never encountered that clearance issue with the lever adjustment screw, maybe because mine are adjusted most of the way in? I do recall finding that plastic ring spacer on there, I just left it off, lol. My handlebar control assembly is dished out in that area for clearance. Maybe all of them aren't?