Bridgestone Battlax BT-45V Sport Touring Tires

dmgmn

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I'm getting my bike ready for next spring and I'm trying to figure out which tires I should choose.

Stock 1975 XS 650

I'm looking at these:

BATTLAX BT-45V SPORT TOURING FRONT TIRE
100/90V-19

And

BATTLAX BT45V SPORT TOURING REAR TIRE
120/90V-18

or

BATTLAX BT-45 SPORT TOURING FRONT TIRE
100/90H-19 TT

BATTLAX BT-45 SPORT TOURING REAR TIRE
110/90H-18 TL
or
110/80H-18 TL

Has anyone used any of these? Will they fit? Is there a reason I shouldn't use them?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Dennis
 
I've used quite a few sets of BT45's. They're excellent tires for grip both dry and wet, but like most sticky tires they're not very long lived; you'll do well to get 4500 miles from the rear tire. A V-rated tire won't deliver any more on these bikes than an H-rated tire will. 120 width in the rear will only slow down your steering. If you want good handling, you want the rear end high. Your best results will come from 100/90H-19 in front, 110/90H-18 in back.
 
Last edited:
Hi Dennis,
Battlax are great tires but an XS650 can't go fast enough to justify using V-rated rubber.
It'll barely get up to H-rated speeds either, come to that.
If it's gotta be Bridgestone their less costly Spitfires are all the tire an XS650 can use.
 
"All the tire an XS650 can use," Fred? With all due respect, that has just a little to do with how that XS650 is set up and who's riding it.
 
"All the tire an XS650 can use," Fred? With all due respect, that has just a little to do with how that XS650 is set up and who's riding it.

Hi grizld,
well, of course it does.
Let me expand my original statement:-
"All the tires a bog-standard XS650 ridden by an average rider on public roads can use"
Although I have to agree that there are special cases:-
An XS650-based custom bike with a front end off of one modern bike, the rear end off another, brakes that'll pull a 2G stop, it's engine rebuilt for twice the power and ridden by a speed-crazed maniac needs the grippiest tires it can get.
A hardtailed showbike needs tires that match the bikes "look" and harmonize with it's paint job.
A museum display bike can use the same tires it left the factory wearing so long as they look good after they've been Armoralled.
And all us sidecar riders need is that our tires hold air and that the cords don't show through the tread yet.
 
Fred, you don't have to get extreme with either motor or suspension mods to get the benefit of good dancin' shoes on the old twin. Around $400 US for emulator valves, straight rate springs, and a brace will take care of the stock front end if you know how to tune it. I can tell you from personal experience that with those modifications, the 35 mm. OE XS650 front end will outperform the damper rod forks on a number of such modern bikes as the Suzuki SV650/Gladius.

For the rear, 5twins' recommendation of a TX750 swingarm or a brace on the stocker plus quality shocks will get the job done for around $700 to $800. The OE rear brake will lock up the wheel, and that's as much as you need. Up front you'd be surprised what a high friction rotor, quality pads (Ferodo Platinum or Vesrah sintered) will do when combined with a stainless brake line and 11 mm. master cylinder. As to the motor, the roads that are really fun don't involve 3-digit speeds, although I prefer a bit more kick out of the corners that the stock motor delivers.

You don't need to be a "speed-crazed maniac" to enjoy brisk riding through the twisties, and I really don't associate you with that kind of cheap shot. But right, if high performance in the corners isn't the goal there's nothing wrong with Spitfires, and if it is the goal, there's a lot to do besides mounting sticky rubber.
 
There's no such thing as a motorcycle tire that can't be used with a tube. Some wheels can be run tubeless and some can't. With a tire and wheel designed for tubeless use, a tube only adds expense and weight.
 
Put a pair of Michelin Pilot activ on the resto this year a 100/90 19 57V and a 4.00 18 64H on slightly wider rims and I am quite happy. This afternoon I noticed I have a 2.15 18 front rim laced up that just needs to be trued. I have a pair of the battlax on the shelf, maybe I'll put the 18" rear on the front rim and give it a roll next spring.
 
- - - You don't need to be a "speed-crazed maniac" to enjoy brisk riding through the twisties, and I really don't associate you with that kind of cheap shot. - - -

Hi grizld,
no cheap shot intended.
For me, speed crazed maniac = someone who rides faster than I do.
Alas, these days that's just about everybody.
 
Very interesting thread, I have Avon Roadrunner on my 77 and I'm very satisfied they are pretty grippy. Question here is with regards to suspension, has anyone here used emulators for the front end? If so which!

I installed the stiffer progressive springs and heavier oil but I still feel the front end squishy. I want to stiffen up the front end. I'm also considering an 18 inch wheel on the front end as well, any feedback on that?

I have progressives on the rear probably need to replace with half inch taller shock.

Any recommendations?
 
I guess my question is to what emulators have you used? And what rear shocks are you using? I tend to adjust my suspension more on the stiffer side.
 
I've installed cartridge emulators and correctly rated straight rate springs on three of my bikes over the years--XS650D, Suzuki SV650, and Suzuki GS500E. I always use Race-Tech emulators, for two reasons. The first is ethical. Paul Thede of Race Tech invented the emulator valves, and I feel that buying pirated copies is collaborating in theft. Second, there's a spring in the valve that controls its action, and the rate of that spring must be correct for the valve to function effectively. I don't trust Chinese makers to produce the spring to correct or consistent standards; they tend to work on the principle that if it looks good enough, it is good enough.

As to stiffness: the emulator valves enable damping to respond to the road surface, and the result is that when stiffer springs are used (and they should be!) ride comfort is not lost but improved, and compliance is much improved.

As to shocks: steering becomes much quicker and more linear on the XS650 when the rear is lifted. I recommend eye-to-eye free length of 13.25" to 13.75" for Standard models, 13.5" to 14" for Specials. I use 13.25" custom alloy body shocks from Works Performance that were made to my specifications with the fork tubes raised 1/2" in the clamps. The shocks were around $550 for the pair when I bought them in 2003 and they'd be a lot more now. YSS makes some nice twin shocks with responsive damping; Google for the URL. They're made to order in Thailand, so you'll wait a few weeks for delivery. The Thais are getting a very good reputation for quality aftermarket bits, and it's well deserved; I hung a YSS monoshock on my little 500 Zook, and I'm very pleased with it. The higher end Hagon shock--the one with adjustable damping--looks like good bang for the buck.

Before you spend a bunch of money, read everything you can get your hands on re. suspension tuning procedures, and if you hop up your suspension, get yourself some better tires! I liked Avon Venoms, but those "universal" tires you're using don't have carcasses designed for the differences in load applied to the front and rear wheels of a motorcycle; they're strictly utility stuff.

I've written all of this up before, and I suggest you look up previous discussions and get other views as well. Just be aware of Paul Thede's maxim: "The best you've ridden is the best you know."
 
Thank Grizld1,

I appreciate your thorough and detailed explanation, I have been considering Race-Tech for a while and now with your comments it has driven me to make that leap. Also, I appreciate the information on the rear suspension, I must admit i was at a loss here, but with you're insight you have set me on the right path.

I will look up what you have written here on the board in order to gain more insight.

Thank you very much!
 
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