Broken bolt for sump cover

H2Os

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I am very frustrated that I broke off a bolt while installing the sump cover. It is the one right next to the kickstand, of course, because it is the hardest to get to. I tried to remove it by drilling a small pilot hole and use a bolt removal device ( not the super expensive one), but it kept bouncing off and it gouged the metal next to the hole. This is actually the least of my concern, as I still cannot get the bolt out. It sheared with about 1 mm sticking out and only on one side.

Anyone got any suggestions? I tried to use some permatex in the area over the new gasket, but I know that was a worthless attempt at a fix.
 
Grind the remaining bolt flat. center punch it and use the cover with a sleeve in the bolt hole to guide your drill bit.
Go easy on the easy-out a broken off easy-out sure makes for a miserable day. Drill bigger if the easy-out doesn't move the remaining bolt. at some point then you use a tap to get the remaining bolt thread pieces out.
 
Great suggestion on putting the cover back and using a guide. Never thought of that. I should have asked before I spent the last 3 hours cursing, throwing stuff, putting the bike for sale.....

jim
 
Gotta watch out with them bolts,there always snapping. Next time get a tube of yamabond and use it on both sides of the gasket or dont use a gasket and just get the bolts snugged up.Your suppose to use yamabond#5 on gaskets and 4 on bare metal but I have always used the #4 on both. Stuff is the best
 
- use yamabond on both surfaces of the gasket or with no gasket and you will have a problem removing the cover...better to use 'yamabond' between the cover and the gasket so the gasket comes off with the cover
 
Yes inxs, and use grease or never seize on the other side.
I use never seize (with a small artists brush, not the giant monster that comes with the tub), as it's out to paint the bolts at the same time!
 
Good'un on the guide. I've used a piece of vacuum line to fill around the drill bit to keep it centered. On my '83, you have to take the kickstand off to get to the sump. Curious as to whether the bolt snapped on the way out or on the way in? Watch the torque specs, they have them for a reason and if you're going to be working on these engines it's imperative that you have a torque wrench.
 
the torque on those bolts is very low, about 7 lbs i think. I put lock washers on all of mine and just compress the washer, then snug up a tiny bit. If you have to in tighter than that to stop a leak, there's a problem elsewhere.
 
if there is enough bolt, welding a nut to the stump is a good removal plan also. pretty much as long as the bolt isn't recessed into the case. Someone reasonably good with a mig can weld inside the nut. Kind of a twofer, the nut gives you something to wrench on and the heat often loosens the bond between the remaining bolt and the case.
 
I have heard that the original bolts were designed to break of at the head if to much torque was applied. This was to keep from stripping the holes out. Not much room for a Helicoil.
 
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