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Broken bolt on rebuild asembly
- Thread starter yzwizard
- Start date
Well, I guess it's possible, if you're able to get in there with a drill and then try an EZ-out on it. How much torque were you trying to put on it? Being a small M6 bolt, the spec is only 6 or 7 ft/lbs.
Can you post a pic? Any chance of a Dremel cut off blade could carve out a straight slot to fit a straight blade?
So you’re saying the bolt is bottomed out? If not and just the head broke off flush you may be able to get it out with a little ingenuity. The easy-out is probably the best option but can you post a pic?
DO NOT USE THOSE TAPERED LEFT HAND THREADED "EASY OUTS" !!
Use something like the Ridgid (Ridge Tool Co ?) extractors. They come in a kit with drill guides, drill bits, straight extractors with 6 ribs, and hexagonal "drive nuts"
If you cannot borrow or buy a set, I have had good luck using Torx sockets or bits as extractors. Just select a suitable Torx size, and use a drill bit just large enough to allow you to hammer the Torx bit into the broken stud or bolt.
Use something like the Ridgid (Ridge Tool Co ?) extractors. They come in a kit with drill guides, drill bits, straight extractors with 6 ribs, and hexagonal "drive nuts"
If you cannot borrow or buy a set, I have had good luck using Torx sockets or bits as extractors. Just select a suitable Torx size, and use a drill bit just large enough to allow you to hammer the Torx bit into the broken stud or bolt.
IIRC the hole/threads extend all the way to the cam tensioner passage so it might go "out the bottom".
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It will be well worth the effort to have a sleeve you can drill through so the drill doesn't nick into the threads..
I'm with Arctic on the rigid extractors and the set includes sleeves. They ain't cheap, but often in hindsight......................
I'm with Arctic on the rigid extractors and the set includes sleeves. They ain't cheap, but often in hindsight......................
Is the engine in the frame? Is it working okay the way it is...?
I too don't like easy-outs. If they break off you have a bigger problem. I think of it as do you really think it's not going to break off, if the bolt is so tight it itself broke off?
If the hole does go all the way through, a normal drill bit might eventually catch and turn it on through. If it doesn't go all the way through, it's the kind of thing I would take to a machine shop, personally, and they don't like you if there's a broken easy-out in it.
I too don't like easy-outs. If they break off you have a bigger problem. I think of it as do you really think it's not going to break off, if the bolt is so tight it itself broke off?
If the hole does go all the way through, a normal drill bit might eventually catch and turn it on through. If it doesn't go all the way through, it's the kind of thing I would take to a machine shop, personally, and they don't like you if there's a broken easy-out in it.
I might be tempted to attach a drill bit to a piece of speedometer cable to get access.
It's kind of weird the bolt broke, normally the threads strip out of the cylinder.
It's kind of weird the bolt broke, normally the threads strip out of the cylinder.
I am taking this out of memory and have not done it myself. saw is somewhere on youtube
If it is broken down in the hole people sometimes take the same size bolt and drill at center hole trough it in a lathe
that hole makes drilling simpler the bolt with the hole made in the lathe is giving guidance for the drill not damaging the thread.
Not sure how drilling is possible at this location if there are room enough for a chuck with angle
There exists also drills with left hand drill bit. It can come loose by that
If not --- the left hand drill bit makes a hole that can be used for extraction
I would put some oil and heat on it first.
Such a difficult location to access with the engine in the frame.
What about just procrastinating on the fix until there is another need to disassemble the engine? Just how important is that bolt to the head anyway? Its hidden, I doubt the head would "warp" if it were left as is while focusing on the rest of the XS's needs this winter..
-R
What about just procrastinating on the fix until there is another need to disassemble the engine? Just how important is that bolt to the head anyway? Its hidden, I doubt the head would "warp" if it were left as is while focusing on the rest of the XS's needs this winter..
-R
For sure
OK y'all made me think 
I had one with stripped threads, drilled it though, tapped it and used a longer bolt.
Back to the OP's prollum.
I had one with stripped threads, drilled it though, tapped it and used a longer bolt.Back to the OP's prollum.
