Broken OE shock!

But um......... is there room for the shock to move around enough so another shaft doesn't break?
Marty, I have the same concern that Gary is alluding to..
The top shock mount needs to be able to move around, but yours seems to be in a bind. Maybe.
Test: If you grab the top shock body and twist it on a horizontal axis, does the shock mount eyelet move around? I get movement in both of mine.

If it doesnt, I would remove the inner washer and retest.

SHOCK.jpg
 
YUP IIRC the top and bottom shock mounts are NOT in perfect alignment from the factory. So the shock HAS to be free to flex around in the rubber bushing. It LOOKS like you have no room for flex. How long did it take for the first shock to fail?
 
Are you guys saying the torque spec is also to be ignored?
The grab bar slipped over the four washers. If I remove two and apply the 20 ft lbs the grab bar will pull in and I’m in the same place.

When the shock broke, there were no washers.
 
Are you guys saying the torque spec is also to be ignored?
The grab bar slipped over the four washers. If I remove two and apply the 20 ft lbs the grab bar will pull in and I’m in the same place.

When the shock broke, there were no washers.
Yes, but: the rack was binding the outer shock mounting ring between it and the frame locking up the shaft til bending forces broke it. Sorry I don't have a late special here right now.
 
You want the shock eye loosely sandwiched on the mounting stud. Well, not sloppy loose, maybe just snug on there, but loose enough so the shock can rotate on the stud. Take the bottom bolt out of the shock and check to see if the shock will easily rotate on just the upper stud. As mentioned, I think that inner washer needs to be removed.
 
I believe I need to come up with thin washers to make this work as what is pictured in the parts breakdown. The parts breakdown is wrong. The washer on the inside has to be 14mm. What's listed is 10mm.
Marty, I just checked all three of my bikes - 1980 SG, and the '81s - NONE use an inner washer on the upper shock mount - 10mm outer washer only - then the grab rail, outermost washer, and nut.
 
I have worked with excavators and seen hydraulic cylinders attachment as I suppose you flying boys have
I think Mr Jim has it in post # 48
If the outer washer lands on the stud the tightening torque can be applied according to spec
There must be play axially 1 ,2,3 mm is in my view not dangerous.
Having said that i believe the main reason for the breakage Being manufacturing problems
At least it was so where I worked the welding of the rod to the hole for pin / bolt
was complicated
As in # 44

Mr Jet have you considered taking pictures for the calendar ?
That is a legit road going bike -- one owner
Some features might not what I would go for .. but it is still a contender
One that is used for riding
 
Okay. Y’all convinced me to give this serious attention. Two broken shocks without an accident isn’t something I want to try a third time. I’m going to use later stock shocks for now. I’ll remove the inside washer and make sure it’s free. I’ll have to get back to this after other priorities are managed.
 
Mr Jet have you considered taking pictures for the calendar ?
That is a legit road going bike -- one owner
Some features might not what I would go for .. but it is still a contender
One that is used for riding

Thanks for that! Yes, it’s a well loved motorcycle. I may follow up on that.
 
Seems it's getting a bit gimped up in it's old age though, what with having broken two rear shocks recently, lol.
If you had been riding with me over the rears, you’d be aware of how improved it is. A year ago it was pumping a lot of oil out the tail pipe. Ol’ Smoky!
 
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