I'm in for a little fun.
The Safety Relay and the Kill Switch wiring is mixed up. First off the Safety Relay should have a brown (switched power), not a red wire.
The Kill Switch red/white wire should only go to the ignition coils.
The Safety Relay red/white wire should only go to the starter relay.

Well ain't that funny? Here you are, slamming the "geek" crowd for "messing" with OEM, while that there OEM diagram is messed up right from the start. :rolleyes:

I think the big point that you're missing here is that it doesn't really matter what kind of wiring you do or what "newfangled whazoo" you incorporate, as long as you do it the right way. Electricity isn't as fussy as you are, it simply either works or it doesn't.

It seems to me that you are indifferently associating those who dare rewire their bikes to incorporate new technology, with those who rip out the rat's nest and/or make a mess of their wiring harness without a plan, and then come in here screaming for help.

To me, they are day and night different. There's the crowd that did their homework and have a plan (e.g., a wiring diagram), and then there's the crowd that didn't. That's all there is to it.
 
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These are old bikes. You cannot trust a lot of information that you find on the internet sites or even in a Haynes manual. People have messed with the documentation over the years, and you will find many errors. That's just the way it is, so you'll just have to get used to finding mistakes.
That's what this site is good for.........................we will help, anyone that has problems with wiring their bike, to make it correct.
 
These are old bikes. You cannot trust a lot of information that you find on the internet sites or even in a Haynes manual. People have messed with the documentation over the years, and you will find many errors. That's just the way it is, so you'll just have to get used to finding mistakes.
That's what this site is good for.........................we will help, anyone that has problems with wiring their bike, to make it correct.

I agree with you- that's what this site is for- for sharing ideas, projects, builds, inspirations, and problem-solving. Don't think there's any value in passing judgment.
 
just when you think its over :) .... here we go again :banghead: ..... this is what i got for my bobber http://www.gripace.com BUT if i would have know about the Munit i would have tried it
Those are actually pretty slick. I watched a few of their videos. Seems like the Harley dudes love em. I'll never understand the Harley scene, though. I mean, really, how many black t-shirts can one human being own.
 
As Yogi used to say,"It ain't over till its over"
Oh yeah Harley dudes....................don't forget about the black leather vest and black leather chaps that must be worn. Black helmet is mandatory as well apparently. Bonus points if your wallet has a chain attached to your belt, and you have a bushy beard.
 
I like to do the Harley look on my GoldWing, black boots, leather chaps and jacket, but with a black full face helmet. I get some real snarls from the Harley crowd at rallys and dealerships. Love to stop at Harley dealerships when on a trip. When they ask if I need help I always say, "I'm just here for the free coffee".

Scott
 
They cram a buncha magic smoke and witchcraft in that little box - different turn signal strobes, timed signals, rear brake light strobe programmable, alarm system, kill/start switch integration & of course the digital fuse block. One of the biggest perks is wire management. The m-button gets burried in your handlebars, takes all switch inputs, digitizes the signal and permits a single wire run back to the m-unit itself, simplifies life greatly.

If you're just looking for an LED fuseblock I'm sure it could be done. The time spent figuring it out, buying material and making it... meh, I'd just spend the money on a prebuilt / waterproof / completed unit from them. I've got one going into my current XS build now.

I have one going into my Welsh Flat Tracker over the winter.
Seems like a good thing to me. Lots of benefits regarding simplifying a full rewire and better solid state protection for the circuits. Also none of the switches are ‘hot’ as they just show the box a closed circuit to ground.
In addition if you get a fault, the box identifies which circuit for easier rectification. It is expensive however.
 
One thing that hasn't been mentioned so far (I think.....)
The oem harness and switches provide a rather convoluted path for power to coils and headlight, that easily can lead to voltage drop and reduced output.
Just consider the headlight: From battery +, via fuse, ignition lock (switch), headlight switch on the RH side, Hi/ Lo switch on the LH side, before finally arriving at the headlight bulb. That is 3 (!) switches and a shitload of bullet connectors and quite a bit of skinny wiring. Not ideal in my book, but can of course be fixed with a couple of relays and some heavier gauge wire.
Now with an M- unit: A main cable from battery to M-Unit (2 connections), the solid state switch ( MosFet?), and a wire from M-Unit to light bulb (2 more connections). That is a very significant simplification of the power path, in my opinion.
Also, the M-Unit will function as individual fuses for each function, instead of a failure taking out that single fuse and disabling everything on the bike. That is another plus in my book.
 
Is there any other economical wiring module then the Moto gadget on the market manufactured by other manufactures?
 
Very cool technology but to me defeats the purpose of kickstarters and carburetors. Vulnerable to batteries. Keep it simple and it will always run. I do like motogadget until I see the price. Lol
 
Very cool technology but to me defeats the purpose of kickstarters and carburetors. Vulnerable to batteries. Keep it simple and it will always run. I do like motogadget until I see the price. Lol
I feel you. I’m just looking for a way to clean up the wiring. I honestly wanna take out the starter and go kickstart
 
I love bringing these old motorcycles back to life. I have 7. I have 7 because when I’m done reviving them, I have more $$ into it than what it’s worth. It is a hobby. A fun one. This puts me in a position to set boundaries. Big Bore kit? Vape system? Motogadget? Springer front end? Fancy paint? Expensive wheels? Never have I done all the above on one bike. I can put together a good solid motorcycle for about $4500.00 and a few boundaries. Haha Anyway, I’ve been using small blade fuse boxes, sometimes shunt reg/rec, AGM battery (if I run one) kickstart only, headlight, taillight, turn signals (all led)
 
I guess one can use relays and micro blade fuses to perform most of the functions of an M-unit. I would say 4 relays are necessary (coils, high beam, low beam, starter.) Or maybe one more, as a "main relay" .
These components look like a good basis for an "electric central unit":

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/p-738-micro-relay-mini-blade-fuse-module
https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/p-646-12v-micro-relays

I would let the handlebar switches control the ground side of the relays, just like an M-unit, to minimize wiring. And use maybe 0.50 mm2 wiring for this control side, while using minimum 1.50 mm2 wiring for power to headlight, starter relay and ignition.
 
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