Bushyboy's build thread

Today I was able to work on the bike with no distractions since it is a federal holiday. Got a lot accomplished and found a few more issues of course. I was able to replace a few gaskets, oil sump filter, clean some more grim, adjust valves, replace plugs, set cam chain, and inspect the carbs. Issues I found; the old plugs gap was too wide, the valves were too tight, cam chain too loose, and the frickin right hand side carb had a broke post where the float lays. Put in a best offer on an OEM used right hand side on ebay, but we will see if they accept. I seriously thought about getting an aftermarket carb replacement, but I'm not ready for the big money plunge yet. Got another $100 worth of parts I'm ready to pull the trigger on not including the right hand carb. If anyone has an old set laying around collecting dust that fits an 80 hit me up.
 
Well second attempt with the pushrod seal gasket botched. Barely ripped the o-ring rubber and of course it barely leaks. Placed two on order and hope the third time is the charm. Rebuilding the junk carb bodies and at a stopping point to figure out how to remove the floats. I ordered a pandemonium yo mama pipes and clubman handlebars. As soon as I get this pushrod seal on then there should be some pics in my upcoming posts.
 
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Maybe this trip to harbor freight will help with my cause.
 

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Float and float valve body removal "tricks". Well worth butchering an old cheap pair of pliers. The drill bit supports the soft brass so the pliers doesn't make it oval. The screwdriver applies the upwards pressure. Hit them with carb cleaner and rust buster before the removal attempt.

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Float pins; grind a drywall screw to make a float pin extractor. Support the post next to the pin head. If the floats don't rotate, are stiff on the pin, rust buster and tap pin out just a little, back in a couple times till the float moves "freely" then finish removing the pin.

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Thanks gggGary If the spring loaded punch doesn't do the trick on the float pin I'll give your idea a shot. I did tap it with both a dry wall screw and punch while supported but didn't want to break the post or bend it. I sprayed some penetrant since it was coked up with old gas too. I can't wait to get this thing on the road but at least it's not spring yet.
 
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The spring loaded punch worked great on one side the other I'm going back and forth but it's moving it in and out. Question for the experts which floats do you recommend the brass or plastic?
 

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I greatly prefer plastic but do find an occasional fuel soaked plastic float, maybe 1 or 2 out of 20-30 so far. For sure do the hot water submersion test on brass floats. I find about a 60-70% FAILURE rate on brass floats. All BS34 floats interchange brass and plastic. use height appropriate for the float type. Plastic floats seldom need adjustment, I find about 24mm at the edge of the flat bottom furthest from the pin about perfect. Double check spring tension on the float valves, if reusing they need to feel strong, a weak spring will be a problem. I always replace the o-ring on the float valve body.
 
What am I missing here? Do I need the tops from the carb on the left? If so how do I remove it? The one on the right has brass screws does that effect the idle calibration? I can not find the information in the Clymer manual. The original carb was an 80 and the junk one I am rebuilding is a 81.
 

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Under that little brass insert with a small hole is the mixture screw. I accidentially found out that the brass insert is the exact same diameter as the metal cap at the end of those round glass fuses. But I removed the brass inserts and never replugged the hole. I think the inserts were there just to stop people fiddling with the mixture screw.
 
What your fingers are pointing to are the mix screw holes. The one on the left still has the tamper-proof cap cover over it. You need to extract that to get the mix screw out and you must remove it to do a proper cleaning. It also has a small sealing o-ring on it that probably needs to be replaced.

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Well I got good and bad news finally got the oil seal for the pushrod installed. Bad news I took it for a test ride and it sprayed oil all over my left leg. Can't tell where it's coming from since it's new oil. It was wet from plug down and appeared to have spray side of carbs and battery airbox cover and dripped all over exhaust. I will check the fluid level later when it cools down. Not sure if it's the head gasket but it wasn't leaking like this before I did all this maintenance.
 
Checked the the tappet cover not sure if it was just loose but the o-ring seemed in tack. From the direction of spray I believe Paul Sutton you were correct in your diagnosis. I tightened it down and checked the oil level it didn't leak as much as I thought. I think I was just worried it was the pushrod seal again but it didn't leak under the cover in that area and was all on the outside anyways. I have to tighten the brakes, adjust the mirrors , and headlight; before a real ride anyways. So one more test ride should see if it sprays oil again. If it does next time then I'll replace the tappet cover o-rings. Waiting on my header wrap for the yo mama pipes and seat and I promise I will post some pics.
 
My Athena gasket set came with paper gaskets for the valve covers (no left exhaust included) so one day I decided to pull the o-rings and try the paper ones. They worked well so I have stuck with them. I have since cut my own left exhaust with the 4 holes. The first was made from Flexoid and it turned brittle from the heat. The second is doing well and made from a high temperature paper just like the stuff Athena uses and same waxy feeling. Below is an example of the stuff I used:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-TEM...64095421643?hash=item3d7d5054cb:rk:5:pf:0&var
Made by a UK company, but there must be stuff like this all around the world.

Note: UK company is Whitby and Chandler and the paper is called WCL EXCELSIOR.
 
It's leaking from underneath the breaker base plate (ignition points holder). I have the gasket, o-ring, and seal if need be. Just walked away because the engine was hot and the screws seem soft.
 

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