Bushyboy's build thread

[Bushyeyed1]

@billy icon the ones on eBay I bought are not the same he sells in his website. They are only springs and the bottom retainer and you have to use your stock retainer and spring cap. I didn’t need to use the shim with the ones I bought. The one hoosracing sells on the website are titanium and the whole kit. Also they don’t just sell the cam you have send your cam and they regrind it. The Kedo supplier was the vintage spoke.

 

[billy icon]

hmmmm, not cool, vintage spoke, he lists them on ebay for 53.00.. I assume that's just two and not all 4?

also does anyone know what sise the od of the sealing washer is on a sr500 exhaust , I was just looking at these tourque cones

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Torque-Valve-Insert-For-YAMAHA-SR500-XT500-TT500-2-089/324113674285?fits=Model:SR500&hash=item4b76ae302d:g:7LQAAOSwGPxaHeHV

oh and do you have a link to the cam guys website?

 

[billy icon]

sorry if im interrupting to much, but it seems there is a LOT of sr500 stuff for really less money out there, Im gonna try and do some research, and find out what size vales and also length of valves a sr500 has because you can get very high quality valves for not to bad a price...
altho I do believe the experienced guys here already said XJ750 vales with the stem cut down is the way to go
https://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-SR5...457788&hash=item46aa5f7537:g:flIAAOxyRhBSsAAg

 

[Bushyeyed1]

@billy icon hoosracing.com does the regrind and there is a few other places. I’m sure if you search the forum you will find a few. You can buy a Webb cam. That would be good to know alternatives for valves and whatnot. I can tell you that once my engine is torqued down I don’t expect to take it back apart for a long time. My valves were still in great shape so they are going to be there as long all is good with the engine.

 

[5twins]

Yes, when you back the adjusters into the rocker all the way, they won't swivel or rotate, but that's not how you run them. You grind out the rockers so the adjusters can be backed out enough for assembly and disassembly purposes. If you couldn't back them out enough, they would be trying to force some valves open when you tried to install the top cover. It wouldn't fit down tight all around. Also, when disassembling, if some valves were pushing on some rockers, it would want to pop the cover off in spots.

There's no spot where you can set this motor that has freeplay in all the valves. The valves in one cylinder or the other will always be tight and pushing on the rockers. When you disassemble or assemble, you loosen all the adjusters way up so that no rockers are trying to force their valve open. Without the grinding, you can't loosen the elephants foot adjusters enough to accomplish that.

 

[Bushyeyed1]

I didn’t take off too much of the Porsche adjuster end and made it about the same length as the stock adjuster. I simply used a cutting disc and cut the screw driver slot in 6 threads from the top. Then cut it off 4 threads from top and sanded it flat.

 

[billy icon]

here is where you can order the KEDO adjusters strait outta germany ... just for those looking in the future, took me 2 hours to find these guys
https://www.xt500parts.com/flachkugelventilspiel-einstellschrauben-1-paar.html

and by the way there 59.25 for two from "MR vintage spoke"
and 41.00 us dollars for 2 strait outsa germany, brobobly 12 bucks internationl shipping for a set of 4,,,, so 120.00 from vintage spoke vs 94.00 from europre

 

[billy icon]

man you did a good job on the flat head slot.

 

[Bushyeyed1]

I am literally at a point where I can not do anything but wait until my master link gets here.

 

[Tiesco]

Clean stuff on the bike?

 

[Bushyeyed1]

Clean stuff on the bike?

Idle hands are the devils playground. You wouldn’t realize how much cleaning, painting, grinding, and being anal retentive I have been doing while waiting for this master link.

 

[billy icon]

im backwards of your situation, I have my master link, (thanks to you showing me were to get one)

Im waiting to get my cly, from the machine shop, I guess they have been busyier than ever they said..

how did you make the flat head slot in the porsche adjuster?
is that a printed out paper degree wheel,? I just printed one a few days ago and glued it to cardboard

 

[Bushyeyed1]

@billy icon i used a dremel cutting wheel to make the slot about 6 threads from the top then I used a thin dremel cutting disc and cut it about 4 threads from the top. Then a used a dremel sanding disc and smoothed it down. I put two of the old nuts on the bolt to hold it and so i knew where the stopping point was. Also yes I printed the degree wheel and glued it to card board too. Saved me $20 and it is set exactly for my shell cam.

 

[billy icon]

you really are ready, even have the timing set and waiting, as for my build I have a xs1 camshaft... I pressed off the xs1 gear, and pressed on the 447 gear, but Im sure I will have to make adjustments to get my cam timing where it goes, , i have another thread here somewhere called "xs1 cam specs" where we go indepth into the differences and especialy the "cam timing diferences" Im spending so much money on other stuff that I will be using the xs1 cam after all.... and Im curious where I will end up putting the cam timing, the xs1 cam and xs650 cam are very similar, lift is almost identical.. duration is slightly greater or "LONGER" on the xs1 cam.. but the BIG diference is the cam timing.. im curious if you have the specs on the shell cam timing??

here is the thread where we discuss the cam diferences,
https://www.xs650.com/threads/the-x...650-valve-springs-cam-specs-also-maybe.55937/

 

[Bushyeyed1]

@billy icon see attached photo

 

[Bushyeyed1]

@billy icon found this thread too

https://www.xs650.com/threads/shell-1-timing-specs.38637/#post-592809

 

[5twins]

After I grind the rockers, I test fit the top cover to insure I've ground enough out. I'm looking for a small amount of freeplay on the cylinder that's at TDC on it's exhaust stroke. That means you have to do two checks, one for each cylinder. Check one then rotate the cam so the other is at TDC on the exhaust stroke (cam lobes angled up).

 

[Bushyeyed1]

@5twins thanks for that you just saved me a little bit of a headache. I guess I need to pull the dremel out again.

 

[billy icon]

and now u havesomethin to do till the master link comes...
will you show us the end result, Im still trying to get kedos, I belive I heard they do not need shortened..
to bad I love to buy a really expencive part and then cut it in half

 

[billy icon]

Aww crap, KEDOS in Germany is "temporarily closed
so Hopefully someone in the US has some?
well besides the vintage spoke