delete this

In a couple days I am going to mess with the bike again.I contemplated the redwire to the coils thing.One of you said more than a short interval and i would fry the coils.I know you have explained things but here are some questions. Since the po removed the fuse panel he inlined fused 2 circuits under the seat.not sure which we hid did it.all those wires have white cloth on them.I doubt the main fuse is even inline from the battery anymore.I was going to buy a 4 spade,maybe 5 spade box.radio shack? I need to run a wire from pos battery to r/r then on up the line.To get the solenoid power to the ignition,kill/ run switch they both needs wired in right? The blue white is ground.its wires go from solenoid to left handlebar,then switch the kill switch and back to solenoid? then the red white goes to remaining post of solenoid after its powered by hot wire from battery to its post.Its my understanding the b/w goes to one thing and the r/w goes to another. I am going to the plugs out and kick it about 20 times tomorrow.The carbs are off,still havent got them sorted out.I just want to know i have the starting and ignition circuits right.as in push the start button and the bike turns over.If the solenoid is bad bypass it with a screwdriver which takes the ign switch out of the equation.Is this right? please school me.I am sorry for my electrical density.
 
I went to tech section here about wiring diagrams.I know to not use the 81 version.I cant tell which one is for a 78.One is in color,it does not agree with the one in black and white.My bike has both a regulator and rectifier instead of a combined unit it seems.
 
my clymers made it more clear for 78 SE.It shows blue white from solenoid to start button.
start button has ground.

re/white- one route to safety relay.one route to light checker.Can't imagine what that is for or if neded,or what it looks like.
one route to each coil from kill switch.
one route to 10 amp fuse

If this is right it is making sense.where did you go? BTW its 100 every day now.
 
this spring at the choke level wont budge.these carbs have vbeen soaked for hours.it looks like the shaft that goes through thecarbs will be held in place by the screws in the butterflies.those screws are tiny.strippable and loseable.pictures coming
 
things are rusty looking but they appear to be brass.these mechanisms and choke springs etc wont budge.their is old caked oil in the coils of the springs.so far they have been soaked twice.the last time for 4 hours.the carbs are much cleaner.not clean but cleaner.the angle iron had almost been stripped by the po.He must have used a phillips instead of JIS.
 

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You're progressing well, Ron. Carefully and patiently, avoid going "neanderthal" out of frustration.

The carb bodies are zinc-based.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-carburetor-metalurgy-or-what-is-this-mystery-potmetal.43438/

The Berrymans carb dip works well on traditional zinc carbs.
Now, if you could do the "dip" routine in an ultrasonic cleaner, it could help to break it loose.

There's also the old-school "hot dip".
Don't know if anyone offers that anymore...
 
You could turn them over to a carb specialist. There is a chap on the forum called OldSkoolCarbs and he does an incredible job on cleaning and refurbishing carbs.

....just a thought.
 
You could turn them over to a carb specialist. There is a chap on the forum called OldSkoolCarbs and he does an incredible job on cleaning and refurbishing carbs.

....just a thought.
I know there are guys like him.I appreciate the advice.However, I want to do this.just like the wiring.I need advice and guidance, but i want to do it.The only thing I will allow someone else to do is paint and installing tires.I am lightyears away from that need right now.The sonic cleaner is interesting.I need to come up with a way to duplicate the method short of buying a $2500 machine. I wonder if using a home depot soda blaster might work.
 
You're progressing well, Ron. Carefully and patiently, avoid going "neanderthal" out of frustration.

The carb bodies are zinc-based.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-carburetor-metalurgy-or-what-is-this-mystery-potmetal.43438/

The Berrymans carb dip works well on traditional zinc carbs.
Now, if you could do the "dip" routine in an ultrasonic cleaner, it could help to break it loose.

There's also the old-school "hot dip".
Don't know if anyone offers that anymore...
neanderthal? As in ripping the thing apart? No, if so, I am not going to do that.I remember about 20 years ago I had an 83 venture that blew fuses one after another.I even did the dread routine of foil over the glass fuses.Finally I decided to start taking it apart.Voila! When drilling out a rusted screw earlier I had drilled into one of the 4 coils. constant short. jb weld and its done. But i do have trouble seeing the obvious. This time it is obvious.The choke mechanisms are crudded up bad. The hot dip, I dont know what that is. What about putting them in boiling water. I saw that done on youtube.
 
Just thinking.....how about soaking them in transmission fluid? With the right sized container it shouldn't take more than two quarts.

Scott
hwy would trans work.I wonder if oil products can remove oil products.the junk is basically dirt mixed with oil residue.Perhaps the fluid woul work.I am leaning towards boiling.I dont see any rubber parts in the carbs
 
Red white gets power when key is on.
blue white grounds to handlebar with starter switch pressed. Handle bar is grounded with a wire from control to a black ground wire in headlight bucket that heads back to main frame / battery - . Location of handlebar ground varies through the years, think your 78 has it in LH control, painted handle bars will screw this up.
 
painted handle bars will screw this up.

RIGHT-ON Gary!

RON: for the horn and starter buttons to work - the handlebar must be very well grounded to the frame of the bike. That means you need to scrape off a little patch of paint in the triple tree area and ensure that there is a little wire from the underside of one of the bolts that secures the handlebar clamps to the triple tree - to the frame or at least to a ground circuit within the headlight bucket.

Basically, if the horn beeps and the starter cranks - you are fine. If not, then you MAY have a horn or starter problem - OR - you MAY have a handlebar grounding problem.

Pete
 
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